Protection light comes on

Shorted components inside the amp or the speaker it was hooked to could be shorting the voice coil.

Have you checked the fuse on the amp and/or make sure the amp did not burn out?

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Hello... I can help you with this. The correct airspace for a p1 Fosgate 12 is 1.79 cubic ft. I don't think the performanace of a car audio sub will be the best choice for a home audio application, though I hear of it being done on many occasions. Just that the design of the sub is different for different applications, car, home, p.a., etc. Hope this helped! Good luck with your venture!

20 year car audio installer

I would bridge down to to 2 ohm mono.

Is the problem much more noticeable when the car is at idle? Double check that Alternator output. 70 amps is not high output, and if the problem is especially noticeable at idle, it's probably due to the alternator putting out lower voltage( a common thing with alternators). Also, with that much draw from your sub amp, the wire from battery to alternator should be beefed up, as well as the ground wire from battery. You can make up your own cables by purchasing the wire to length and wire lugs at a local Welding shop, 4 gauge from alternator to battery is good. High output aftermarket Alternators shoot into the 200 amp range.

You are correct. The p1 12" is 150Watts RMS and 300Watts peak power handling.

Powering the subwoofer over 300W for a short length of time will heat up the voicecoil and you will blow the woofer.

The p1 10" (if that was your previous model) has the same power handling.

The purpose of moving up to a 12" is to displace more air.

It takes less power to move the same amount of air when you increase the cone area.
In theory - in a properly constructed enclosure - with the proper amount of airspace - tuned to the Fs of the woofer - a 12" woofer will have a greater output than a 10" with the same amount of power applied.

So, your 12" p1 will displace almost 1/3 MORE air - and should be louder than the 10 at the same amplifier gain setting.

Hope this helps clarify your connundrum.

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un hook the subs and let the amp sit there on if the protect light shuts off you wired your subs wrong if it doesnt go off tun it off then back on with no sub music all the way down then slowly turn the music up if the light is off then comes on you need new rcas

make sure you ground wires arent shared, meaning run each ground wire from each amp to its own grounding point

Does it shut off for a couple of minutes or a couple of seconds? Is the amp hot when it shuts off? Are you sure you have the speakers wired to an acceptable ohm load for the amp? Have you measured the voltage at the amp (across the B+ and ground terminals) to make sure it's not dropping too low on hard bass notes?