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`Try changing the breaker some times they get weak and will trip at start up. Also check for bare wire shorting out. Then check capacitor then fan motor spin blades to see if they spin easy and that bearings are not bad.. make sure all connections are tight with no corrosion. These problems show up more with short cycling then with long.
could be a run or start capacitor in the compressor start electrics sounds like its cycling on its on board overload capacitors usually pop or bulge on their ends
Unit may pull as much as 17-18amps when compressor starts up, but level out to 12-15 amps when up and running. Keeping in mind that is all relative to proper 120v incoming voltage, heavy enough wire to run the application etc. If your AC unit needs cleaning , it may draw an extra amp or 2 . With that said, when your at the park, first thing I'd question is their incoming voltage to RV, and try running fridge etc and anything else on propane if possible. The AC alone should not cause 30amp at source breaker to trip, before 15 0r 20 amp breaker in RV that is connected to AC trips. If it doesn't trip your breaker at home, and all is connected same at park, then I certainly would suspect bad breaker or voltage/wiring at park is the cause. P.S. I noticed you said you have 12 gauge wire (rated at 20 amps) connected to a 20amp breaker at panel, but RV is plugged in to a 15amp receptacle, I will assume with a 15 amp adapter from 30 amp plug. Do you see any hazard regarding 15 amp rating on receptacle? ( just a little advice.)
What else do you have running on hydro while AC is running? Such as coffee maker, microwave, water heater, fridge. That 30 amp breaker is your main breaker I assume, or breaker on pole your plugged in to. Keep in mind your AC will normally draw approx. 15-17+ amps momentarily when compressor kicks in to cool, then drop back to 12-15 amps when running normal. If your AC is drawing too much current, then you would only normally trip 20 amp breaker for AC in your panel. Try switching other appliances to gas operation while running AC, such as water heater, and fridge. Make sure incoming voltage is up to specs as well . (115-120 volts) If water heater takes 5-8 amps, and fridge takes same when they are calling for power, you'll be close or over the 20amp mark when you consider your on board converter etc. as well. That only leaves approx 10 amps for AC that requires approx 15 amps to run, and up to 20amps when compressor kicks in. If you switch all those other items over to propane, and it still happens, then a current draw test should be done on AC unit to see if perhaps a capacitor is faulty, or possible compressor faulty.
Hi, sounds to me like the thermostat is at fault.You have done nothing wrong to it but cover it up. The t-stat is what controls it, turns it on and off. The only other thing that would keep it on all the time would be that the thermostat wiring could be touching together from the stat up to the unit. You might check that before replacing stat. I have seen this many times.You can start the unit and go up top and disconnect the stat wire and it should stop the unit.Then its either the wire or stat.Let me know what you find, Sincerely,Shastalaker7
Sounds like you have a problem with your compressor. If the beaker trips the second the compressor tries to come on hen it is shorted. If it takes a couple of seconds, then your compressor is locked up. seth
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