Auger won't stop

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It sounds like the auger always turning is the auger engagement handle/line/connections are not adjusted correctly. They/it is too tight causing the auger to engage before it should. It may be up at the handle where you loosen a jam nut, screw in or out a threaded shaft, and retighten the jam nut. (If you have ever adjusted a bicycle brake it is similar.) (I have a craftsman, made by MTD, and I think I saw MTD also list Ariens.) Or it could be an adjustment somewhere else (but I'm not sure where).

As far as one auger moving and the other not, you may have a shear-pin (shear bolt as the manual calls them) on each side of the auger's shaft (my craftsman has one on each side), and the one on the side that stops turning is sheared off. (It moves without snow present due to the driveshaft inside the outer auger shaft turning, but it won't turn under load (snow).) You may confirm a sheared-pin by turning the machine off and try to turn the auger blade. If it turns somewhat easily, that's a bad shear pin. Remove the old shear pin. If the old one is as long as the new one, that aint the problem. The shear pin in the image is one kind. Mine appear as a straight bolt (no grooves), threaded the entire length. You will have to rotate the auger blade until it aligns with the hole in the shaft. Use a nail that fits and rotate the blade until the nail goes in. Remove the nail and screw in the shear bolt:


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The auger clutch control up at the handle looks like this:
From my manual
Auger Control

• To check the adjustment of the auger control, push forward the left hand clutch grip until the rubber bumper is compressed. There should be slack in the clutch cable.
• Release the clutch grip. The cable should be straight. Make certain you can depress the auger control grip against the left handle completely.
• If adjustment is necessary, loosen the hex jam nut and thread the cable in (for less slack) or out (for more slack). Recheck adjustment. Tighten the jam nut when correct adjustment is reached.

Here's another view of that:

I hope the above info helps you take care of both issues.

Hi Brenda,

This machine makes use of two levers on the handle. The right controls the drive and the left controls the auger. When both are released, the drive wheels and the auger should stop. The impeller (the part inside that pushes snow up and out of the chute) will run as long as the motor is running and not controlled by the levers.

You said the auger continues to spin even when the lever is released. Both levers are connected by a flexible, thin, steel cable that extends down to a "wheel" or pulley assembly that is held in place by two hex nut bolts to the rear (operator position) corners of the machine. The steel cable should be ON the wheel - not hanging in free air and not wedged between the pulley and pulley support. Loosening the bolts and adjusting the pulley UPWARD should reduce tension / provide SLACK required to disengage the auger when the lever is released (adjust for a *small* amount of slack only). Positioning the pulley DOWNWARD increases tension that reduces the amount travel the lever needs to ENGAGE the auger. The pulley assembly position needs to be adjusted so that when the lever is released, the auger shuts off, and when squeezed, the auger turns on. These same adjustment procedures can be used for the DRIVE lever control, too.

If you are unable to adjust the cable so that there is a little slack, then there is a problem with the cable at the other end - inside the machine. It will require someone who is mechanically inclined - or snow blower serviceman to adjust / repair this for you if you lack the tools and understanding to do the work yourself. It is not likely to be an expensive repair, however. You should ask for an estimate or be given the opportunity to authorize repairs before they are started.

I hope this helps and good luck!

Your problem would be in a safety shutdown switch.
some Ariens blowers have a two handed safety switch whitch is located on back of blower right lower side (inside of body)
You have to remove 4 transmission pan bolts to see it.
The other location is under the metal face plate between the handle bars.
Some of them have a third handel on right side of handle bars that has to be depressed to run auger .

Sounds like either the auger belt is jammed to tight or handle mechanism to engage/disengage is stuck in on position. I would remove belt cover to inspect auger belt and pulley first, then remove bottom cover and inspect auger engage apparatus. I think once you inspect the problem will be self explanatory. Good luck!

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check the belt and tensioner
adjust the cable for more tension

the drive shaft that connects to the auger may be stuck in gear or depending on the wear and age rusted shut. I would check that before doing anything.

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Make sure the bucket is pushed back all the way so auger engages the motor. You may have to turn the auger by hand and push to line it up correctly.

Hi, I will try to help you with this problem. I think the problem might be an adjustment issue. If you take the cover, usually plastic, situated just in front of the engine housing, you will see the belts and pulleys. Without the engine running, press on the auger/impeller lever, and if you look inside you should see how the belt is made to engage the auger pulley. Probably by an idler pulley that pushes on the belt to make it tight to turn the big pulley. That is the most popular way, it is to loosen the bolt on the idler pulley and push it towards the belt so it applies more pressure to the belt to turn the auger pulley and tighten the bolt. There could also be an adjustment on the linkage that might be adjustable. Another possibility is that the belt is worn and is riding on the bottom of the pulleys therefore not providing enough friction to turn the pulleys properly. I think if you take a good look at that system you will comprehend it. Hope this is helpful. All the best and good luck. I will gladly answer any other questions.