Power outage and fridge doesnt come back on when power is restored

It should come back on automatically when power is restored. If not you could have had a power spike or low voltage and caused damage.

compressors use a small start / run capacitor to start the compressor
modern fridges do not like spikes from power outages and many power boards and electronic components fail because of this and I am inclined top use a surge protector before the fridge cord plug
I went google and typed in --fault code 88-88 for samsung fridge model rf26aewp and the first site up is error codes /messages/ blinking
the site is support-us.samsung>popup>iframe
there is a detailed answer there with a list of fault codes as well and what they indicate
there are other sites that also refer to the fault that you have

Perhaps the power outage, was caused by your freezer?
When you think a reset would help, the run light should come on, after a little while. But perhaps only the thermostat is defect.
Be aware there can be so many causes, and none has to be related to the power outage, for your freezer not to work.
It would be virtually impossible to see what is wrong, from a distance. Better try to bring the food to a working fridge and call a tech to solve the problem.

33 E code, hold energy saver button and the lighting button at the same time for 6 to 10 seconds

Hello AnnArborMom, thank you for your inquiry!

I would recommend you adjusting the temperature to a lower setting to see if that would start your compressor to cool. If that is not successful I would contact a professional to come and properly diagnose your appliance. It could be that the power outage shorted the main control board or relay. I hope this is helpful. -Matt

Hello max ryan,
I understand that you had a power outage and now that power was restored, you have power inside the appliance but the freezer is not freezing and you can't hear the motor running. I would double check the breakers and make sure that they are on. You can also check the Temperature Control and make sure that it is not in the OFF position. If these solutions do not work, I would call the manufacturer for more help.

-Best Regards-

Check breaker. Was there a surge of electricity when the power went out. This may be a simple fix. Sounds like the breaker is tripped. Test the outlet with a light to see that power is to it.

Is this a UK model?

You refrigerator was made by Frigidaire Adaptive Defrost Controls Frigidaire Refrigerator Trouble Shooting and Diagnosing
On the initial plugin, or when power is restored to the fridge after a power outage:
If terminating thermostat is open, the fridge enters a compressor (cooling) cycle.
If the terminating thermostat is closed, the first defrost cycle occurs 1 hour
after initial plug-in.
Maximum defrost cycle time is 24 minutes.
Minimum time between defrost cycles is 6 hours. (compressor runtime)
Maximum normal clock time between defrost cycles is 12 hours.
Maximum time between defrost cycles (in "vacation" mode) is 72 hours.
Vacation mode is not entered unless the door has not been opened in at least 24 hours.
Note that the ADC will only enter the defrost mode if the terminating thermostat is closed. If the terminating thermostat is open when defrost is initiated, the ADC board will wait for six minutes and then return to the cooling mode.
ASSUMING that the fridge has been on and running,
and the terminating thermostat is closed,
defrost is initiated by pressing the door (light) switch
at least five times within six seconds.
The defrost heater should start heating up within 8 seconds.
If the above procedure caused the heater to heat up, the ADC board is probably bad; replace it.
If the defrost heater does not heat up, test the defrost heater, terminating thermostat and cold control for continuity as follows:
Unplug the fridge from the wall. Unplug the ADC board from its connector.
Test the connector for continuity between the following leads:
Defrost Heater = DEF TERM (blue) to DEF OUT (brown).
Terminating Thermostat = DEF TERM (blue) to NEUTRAL (lt blue).
Cold Control = COLD CONTROL (orange) to L1 (black).
Replace the defective component.

Check the breaker at the panel, it could be that you have more than just your fridge on the same circuit and the breaker blew or fuse when the power came on. You should only have the fridge on a circuit, the same goes for a freezer and microwave and water pump and sump pump. Nothing else on those circuits. One appliance only.