Every once in a while the unit will go completely dead for 3-4 minutes then come back on like it was just plugged in.

The thermal cutout on either the magnetron or cavity might be opening. Sometimes these cutouts become defective and open at too low of a temperature. Or, you might have an air flow obstruction to the magnetron, or cooling fan problem.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

Leonard, first, unplug the microwave and then turn it around so that you are looking at the back of the unit. Take the screws out that hold the cover onto the unit, most will be accessible from the back, but some may be on the side as well. Once you have all of the screws out you can remove the cover and set it aside. Find where the power cord goes into the back of the unit and follow the black wire from the cord to where it stops. Usually it will go either to a circuit board where your fuse will be located or it will go directly to the fuse holder. The holder could be a block mounted to the unit or it occasionally goes to an in-line fuse holder. The fuse will be stamped with the amperage rating on one end of the fuse on the metal collar. You need to make sure that you replace it with the same amperage fuse. Hope this helps!

Hi, kindly unplug the unit for five minutes. this will drain all power, and reset the main board. Once the five minutes have passed, simply plug the unit back into the power outlet. If the problem continues, the touch pad should be replaced asap.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor. See here.

If it went dead several seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer. See here.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount. See this file.

You can find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number (from the tag in or on the unit) at the Sears parts site.

BUT once you have the part number from the Sears site, you can often get the parts cheaper here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Mine did this when my wife had it on full power for over 10 minutes. We left it set for 15 or so minutes and it came back on. It did the same thing when my niece was heating a liquid with some metal in it. It eventually came back on. There must be a thermal circuit breaker inside the unit. Yours may have a fuse or some sort of circuit breaker inside it, that needs replacing or resetting. Then again some units have a fuse that goes out when the Magnetron shorts out, or goes bad. This would require replacing the Magnetron as well as the fuse.

I returned the item to Home Depot and they took it back no questions asked.

It sounds like two separate problems.

1. It sounds like your magnetron is overheating and then the thermostat trips, cutting the power until it turns off, then it closes to power it back up.

It's essential that the internal cooling fan (I don't mean the hood / vent / exhaust fan) is running to be sure the magnetron stays cool.

2. It also sounds like your vent / hood / exhaust thermostat is sticking or the triac on the circuit board is leaky, causing the vent fan to stay on.

But you may want to check the owner's manual. It is designed to stay on if the temperature of the stove top is above a certain level.

-.htmYou can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

-.htmPlease reply back here if you still need help.

-.htmWe're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron probably overheated and caused the magnetron thermal fuse to open.

If you or someone you know wants to look into this, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Does the digital display light up at all? Is it completely dead? Are you sure it has power? Have you tried another outlet? If the outlet is good and the unit is completely dead, the internal fuse may have blown. You can try to take the cover off (with the unit unplugged) and look for a blown fuse. Try replacing the fuse with an EXACT fuse of the same rating. Try plugging the unit back in again and see if the unit comes back on. If not, you may have a power supply issue or defective Magnetron.

Please let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

Good Luck,
- Jim

there is a fuse in the top right hand of the microwave it will burn out when the Capacitor goes bad it will burn it out replace the Capacitor diod and fuse