Where is sump plug - Husqvarna "RZ4621 46"" Briggs And Stratton 540cc 966659101 Zero Turn Riding lawn Mower 2012"

There are two ways of changing the oil, and both involve running the engine until hot first.

Firstly, don't forget to have the spares (this includes enough oil to fill the sump -- find this quantity in the vehicle's instruction-book --and filter) and the necessary tools (oil-filter remover belt or long, thick screwdriver, sump-plug key and bowl) to hand.

The first way is to put a bowl which will contain enough to hold the lubricant under the sump and carefully releasing the sump plug. Do wear plastic (not rubber, as these dissolve in oil) whilst you're doing this as used oil can be carcinogenic. Now (remember the engine is hot), carefully loosen the sump plug. Put the bowl underneath the sump and remove the sump plug. It is more important to avoid the boiling oil than to catch the sump plug, which can be fished out later, when cool. Once cool, remove the bowl and replace the sump plug.

The second way is to go to a garage which offers free oil changes (you only buy the oil) and they will put a tube down your dipstick aperture and vacuum the oil out. This is not as good as allowing the oil to drip through the sump drain hole.

Now remove the oil filter using the strap or by piercing the old filter with a screwdriver and using that as a lever and turning the filter anticlockwise.

Put a little oil on the seal of the new filter and screw this onto the seating by hand. DO NOT TIGHTEN BEYOND HAND-TIGHT.

Refill the sump with the manufacturer's recommended type and quantity of clean oil, though there may be a little residual oil in the engine, so do check before overfilling. Do not overfill.

Put a piece of sticky paper in the driver's door jamb with the date and mileage at which you changed the oil and filter.

Hi, I'm supposing it's the thread in the sump pan which is stripped, otherwise you would just put a new plug in it .. several options. Temp / get-you-home repair -1) try wrapping the plug with PTFE / plumbing tape and screw it back in .. 2). replace sump plug with one with a taper thread .. 3) make plug out of plastic wine bottle cork and screw it in until the end is through the sump boss so that it can mushroom out, it would be a temporary fix but shouldn't leak .. ..
Permanent alternative fixes, 1) replace sump pan ..2) drill out pan boss to next oversize, tap and fit same size plug .. remove sump braze/ bronze weld boss threads and re-tap. you can also drill out and fit a thread insert but I personally ouldn't choose that.

remove sump guard drian plug a little to the rear of sump .oil filter half way up engine block ,hope all goes well

Hi there
Well there is a few ways to remove a rounded sump plug and the best way will be to either drill a center hole [small] then let it drain out the oil, then drill out with a bigger one and use a easy out to un do it [ but when its out put some of the old oil back in to wash out any swarf ] replace new plug with new gasket washer but dont over tighten when replacing .
THE other way is to tap it with a screwdriver and hammer but only lightly and on the plug only. and do it after a run so the oil and sump plug are hot.

Sump pressure is the back pressure created within the oil sump by pressure leaking past the piston rings. The pressure is usually very low due to the venting of the sump thru the oil sump vent (usually a tube or removable plug used for adding oil). If the vent was replaced with a plug, then pressure will be very high and cause oil leak. Higher sump pressure is also caused by adding too much oil into crank-case. If you are having other problems with compressor, post again. Good luck.

One litre in the primary of Formula+, one liter Formula+ in gearbox, approx. 2.4 litres engine oil HD360 in sump. Look underneath and find sump. Engine oil drain plug is on left side of sump near bottom and back and is in horizontal. Gearbox drain plug is to the right side of sump about half way and points up. Torque is 14 lbs-ft with DRY CLEAN threads. Use new O rings on bung plugs, part #:11105. Warning: very easy to strip these threads.

You have a problem. Drain out the oil . leave out the plug to drain out as much as possible. Get some flushing oil from a lubrication retailer. Remove the spark plug. Replace the sump plug and fill with the flushing oil. Spend around 10 minutes pulling the starter cord or run the starter motor if you have one. Drain the sump and leave out the sump plug until there is no more draining out.. Repeat the procedure again. Replace the sump plug and fill with the recommended proper oil. Replace the spark plug and run for around 5 minutes no load. Drain out the sump oil and refill with the engine oil.. The major problem that brake oil is a vegetable based oil and reacts badly with mineral when heated . IF you have successfully managed to flush out all trace of the brake fluid and there has been no damage to the bearings and cylinders then you are lucky. If however there is signs of contaminated sump oil ( thick---lumpy---black- tarry) you may have to full the engine down and clean out everything.

The sump drain plug will be at the lowest possible point on the sump. The one in front of the water pump is probably the water drain plug.

under the engine,the sump has an 8"square lower pan,it is on the base of this lower pan that you will find the plug.
renew the washer when replacing the plug,do NOT reuse tho old washer.

you drain as much engine oil from them sump as you can by undoing the 13mm sump plug. you then undo all the bolts holding the sump onto the engine