Clear plastic lid replacement - Cook's Essentials 700 Watts CESM100 Pro Stand Mixer

Sand the area on bottom of piece along with areas surrounding the broken piece. Get another small piece of plastic that is large enough to cover the broken piece and adjacent areas and apply the glue to that using a good epoxy for adhesion. Let it set up and it will hold - trust me.

Kitchenaid mixer parts are available from a number of sources aside from EBay, among them:
http://www.goodmans.net/d/933/kitchenaid-stand-mixer-repair-parts.htm

http://www.shipfreenow.com/

http://www.seneca-river-trading.com/kitchenaid-stand-mixer-repair-parts.htm

http://www.mendingshed.com/kamisc.html

You may also need the Service Manual at:

http://www.kitchenaidparts.eu/documents/pdf/service-manual/classic-svc-manual-new-email-version.pdf

Hi on my new Kenwood Prospero+ model khc29h0wh (but applies to all) I had same problem: dough mixer and high speed mixer working, but "medium speed" food processor and Juicer not working.
After lots of time I realised... the lid of the Juicer/Processor actually locks in three different positions, but only one of these (with the handle corresponding to a mark) actually locks lowering a white plastic security prong that activates the switch. It is the position in which the lid and container prongs coincide.

http://www.4kenwood.co.uk/cgi-bin/catalogue.pl?section=590704

Is there a lubrication issue? Is there a bind or load to the drive after the gears? What has changed since it worked well? P{ancake batter would not be sufficient load to eat gears. Are you changing speeds under load?

Hi,
If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
  
  
• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
  
  

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
  
  
• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
  
  
• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
  
  
• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
  
  
• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
  
  
• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
  
  
• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  
  

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
Thanks for contacting Fixya.com

I'm not 100% sure exactly what you're looking for but these folks have all sorts of parts lids/covers.

https://www.espares.co.uk/browse/at1096ma435/blenders---mixers---juicers/small-appliances/kenwood
hope this helps you.
Cheers

Hi Victoria. There is internal damage in your mixer's transmission. The unit needs to be serviced, and repaired.

Here is something you can try on your own. Unplug the mixer, remove the single screw that holds the silver band. There are now 4 screws that hold the top cover, remove them, and then the cover.

At the top-front of the mixer you'll find the transmission housing. If this housing is made of plastic, check it carefully for cracks in the housing or near its screw holes. If you find any cracks in this housing, you have found the source of all trouble.

Although Kitchenaid advertises "All metal transmission", the truth is that they use a cheap plastic part to support two of the most important shafts in your mixer. This cheap plastic part will fail at some time when it's mixing cookie or bread dough. When it fails the gears and shafts jump out of position and major damage occurs. This is why it was listed on Craigslist. The previous owner wanted to get rid of it.

Kitchenaid's replacement housing is made of metal. Kinda makes you wonder...

Unless you're mechanically adept, you either need to fix it, or get rid of it. If you're not up to the task of repairing it yourself, then take it to a small appliance repair place for an estimate.

If you're looking for a new mixer, go to consumersaffairs.com and search for a make and model of the mixer you're considering and read the actual customer reviews.

Kitchenaid is not what it once was. Steer clear.

If this solution has assisted you, please rate it. Good luck! ricardok45

I'm looking myself for a guide to open it fully, but I can at least answer your question partly. Maybe you can get on from there.

When you look at the front side of the mixer(the side opposite to the cable), there's a slim oval lid with rounded ends. Push a small flat sdcrewdriver under that lid until it pops out, revealing a screw. Remove the screw.

The rest of the enclosure seems to be held together by several hidden plastic clips. Use a pocket knife with a thin blade and push it carefully between the halves of the case. Work your way from the screw to the top and bottom side, levering the halves apart step by step. Do not use too much force!

I'm stuck at the back of the case where the rubber ring is. I can't get this part open., but it's a start

you most likely stripped the plastic gear (Worm gear???).  This gear is designed to fail to prevent the motor from burning out under EXTREME loads (i.e. when a metal piece falls into the bowl). The plastic gear is much cheaper than a new motor.  Look around on this site to see how to get at/repair the gear.  I've found many parts on eBay.com and also PartSelect.com.