Need to know wiring diagram for cooper single pole lighted switch

You need separate wire going to each light.
Here are diagrams:
2 single pole switches, before you started to replace
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/2-single-pole-switches.jpg
Single pole and 3 pole to control each light separately: must identify black wire to each light. If each light does not have separate black wire inside the switch box, then it is not possible.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/single-pole-and-3-pole.jpg
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make sure you are hooking up the correct color wires to it main wire on top of switch, bottom wire of switch other color wire they should be blackor any other color , just dont hook up the white wire to it this will make your breaker pop , If your copper is touching any metal this will make it pop also,good luck

Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1

Wiring is suspect.
Black hot wire connects to dark screws.
Break off tab should be intact.
White neutral wire connects to silver screw.
Wire going to switch load connects to brass screw.

You should be able to, just make sure the dimmer you purchase is labeled as a "3-way" dimmer, and not "single-pole only."

This extra wires where taps for the non working components you mentioned.

I have 120Volt cooper 277 pilot light switch here in my office.
Dang instruction sheet shows wiring for all kinds of cooper devices.
EXCEPT pilot light switch.

So I tested with multimeter and came up with following:
Key to any wiring device is color of screws.
Hot from breaker box always goes to dark-colored screws.
Neutral always goes to silver-colored screws.
Brass screws are for Hot wires from breaker or Hot going to Load
Green screw - ground

Here is a site with a simple wiring diagram for a single light switch...

http://www.ask-the-electrician.com/Pics_Diagrams/singlepoleswitchdiagram1.JPG

Very interesting problem! But easy to fix. It's not a defective switch, just a minor wiring error, which would be very hard to solve via back and forth text. So, instead of trying to figure out exactly which wires and terminals to swap at the new switch, it would be much easier to simply swap the light and fan wires at the ceiling fixture, I hope this is helpful. Good luck, Al Kupchella

solution depends on how many wires are in the ceiling box. was there a ceiling fan in place before? were the light and fan controlled by seperate switches or was there only one switch? if two switches, then there should be two seperate hot wires in the ceiling box. if only one switch, then only one hot wire in box. if only one, then your black and red from the fan will wire together to the single hot. green goes to the bare copper wire, if not one, then not needed