Is anyone manufacturing poly or rubber screw in track spikes

Almost certainly, if not with a spare part from the kayak manufacturer or dealer, then with the aid of modern adhesives or plastic welding techniques a similar valve could be grafted in. If all else fails a suitable schrader type could be fitted.

In the days when car and truck inner tubes were popular a range of schrader valves was available moulded into a large circular patch intended to be either vulcanised into position or cold welded.

Once you have removed the screw from the handle, you may be able to gently pull the handle away from the valve. Some handles may have a small set screw on the side that needs to be loosened first. If the handle does not easily come off, gently tap it with a soft rubber mallet or use a handle puller tool to carefully remove it. If the handle is still stuck, consult the manufacturer's instructions or a plumber for further assistance.

Track spikes can be made from ceramic, metal and plastic and they are screwed into the bottom of the training shoes.

not sealant But get small length of rubber hose,,, small ,as in just larger than metal line then get two small screw band clamps cut the leak spot with bolt cutters QUICKLY insert hose on two ends of line with CLAMPS ALREADY ON HOSE screw them tight stop at service dest inform them of gas leak so they can take precautions.

they will ask fix or replace say FIX so they don't chage you $120 an hour shop time to bend fuel line hose to replace entire line... NOT necessary..old school repair if fine replace line is $$$ and not neccessary very little pressure in fuel line mostly gravity flow you may even say its more practical

with a special tri screw driver open up the DS from underneath theres about 6-7 screws, hidden one's are under battery in the corner, one in game card slot and two under the rubber padsRemove slot 2 cover. Carefully ease the back off the L and R buttons are spring loaded so hold them down so you don't loose track of how they are fitted. If the micro button has to be replaced then you will need to solder it in. The part is about £5. If you are in the UK and can't find anyone to fix it get back to me.

It sounds like you have eliminated the motor as the problem. Try cleaning all of the electrical contacts including the connections between rail sections and the hot rail with fine steel wool (make sure you clean up all of the remaining steel wool bits since they are conductive). If that doesn't work, look at the transformer output.

our tray that goes around and back and forth jumps the tracks and stops and turns the other way I can put it back on track before it makes a round it jumps the tracks again and starts going the other way is there a part that need replaced

Mine wouldn't fully screw down into the base, but I didn't want to force it and it seems stable enough, so I'm not worrying about it...