My Samsung LCD (ln32b460dxza) has no picture but power is on

SOURCE: No display

Well I just joined in the world of broken Samsung's. Died Feb. 1st. I had three month additional warranty, but of course it died the day after. Same problem, no video, just audio.

However if you call 1-800-522-7341. This is the number for Executive Customer Relations. They extended my warranty and contacted the repair center for me. Probably won't be fixed by Superbowl Sunday though. I expressed my disbelief that after 15 months a 2400 set can die. I have to call back on Monday for additional help.

SOURCE: Samsung LTN1765 has blinking green power indicator, but no picture or sound

Try replacing C51, a 10 microfarad 16v. surface mount electrolytic. It's near IC23 on the upper center of the board.
This part had high ESR on a couple of sets I serviced which
kept the power supply from starting.

SOURCE: No Picture - Samsung LN-S4692D 46in HDTV LCD

I had the same problem and I replaced the t-con board. My t.v. is fixed!!!! I just couldn't see spending another 700.00 dollars for a repair shop to fix it. The t-con board is located at the top of the t.v. once you remove the back cover. Be very careful removing the two plugs at the top of the board which was easy once I figured out how the clips worked. there is a black lever like connection which flips up, then grip with your fingers the tab and slide the tape like wires straight out. The bottom plug is very simple. Also to expose the t-con board you will have to remove a heat shield cover. Once removed there is foil looking tape that needs to be peeled back to expose the board. The board is very sensitive to static electricity so if you have a grounding strap that you can strap to your wrist and ground to the frame while performing your repair. Its best to lay the t.v. face down on the kitchen table with a blanket to protect the screen. Good luck!

SOURCE: Samsung LN-R408D - No Picture

My Mom's LNR408D also had sound but no picture. I was able to fix it by soldering in a jumper wire across a blown (1.5A ???) SMD picofuse on the "T-Con" board.
Consider attempting this ONLY if you: 0) Know enough to avoid the potentially fatal High Voltage parts of the power supply board!!!
1) Are a fearless hackazoid 2) know what you're doing with a soldering iron and teensie SMD parts 3) are gonna throw the busted thing out anyway so you have nothing to lose and won't be sad if you screw something up.
4) Know enough to avoid the potentially FATAL High Voltage parts of the power supply board!!!!!


This board is at the top center under a close fitting RF shield. The suspect part was labeled "CP" on the board and marked with "P" on the part. It is visible above the right-center of the connector from the main board. An ohmmeter showed it as open, so I bypassed it with a jumper wire from connector VIN to the hot side of C13. One image shows the suspect part and the jumper in place.


The other shows the TCON board placement top-center (under its RF shield). With care, it seems possible to test the fuse and put the jumper in place without removing the shield. (Obviously don't touch anything else with the VOM leads!)

Thanks to ZORBUS and Steve's TV and Electronics for the idea.
http://www.avforums.com/forums/lcd-televisions/892447-no-picture-but-got-sound-my-samsung-lcd.html
http://www.gesda.com/transformer/Fall08_files/Page336.htm
Steve C

SOURCE: Black screen but have audio.

It's a pretty common problem. (If this is a plasma your post says lcd but it came up under plasma.) The no picture but sound problem is usually the y sus board. I've replaced 2 on mine now. The 680uf 35V capacitors usually are bulging because one of the power transistors went and took them out. This has happened to both of the y boards I had. One time the failing y board took out the buffer boards too, and once it did not. The fix is super simple and anyone with even the most rudimentary knowledge of computers or electronics can do the labor yourself. You should do the simple stuff first by just doing a quick test with a multimeter. Just check the power coming to the y board. After that you can just remove the y board by removing 3 cables and like 3 screws. Plug in the new board and it's done! You can source the parts from a place like shopjimmy or discount merchant. 3 boards were like 200 bucks. 1 board is like 100 bucks. Labor took me 15min. Think about that the next time an electronics repair place charges you 1000 dollars. Of course they check everything (Yeah right) and warranty their work (I don't) but if you check the service manual it states that this is the most common repair. Look for the Canadian manual online. Hope this helps!