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Rick Martin Posted on Mar 12, 2014
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What gauge power wire is needed for a RCI63ffc4 it will be 20 ft long ?

1 Answer

Steve

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  • Master 3,290 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 15, 2014
Steve
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Joined: Dec 02, 2008
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The size of the wire is determined by the load it needs to safely carry. This can be obtained from the manual or the supplied fuse size. Once you have found this value, multiply it by 1.25. This means a 10 amp radio will be 12.5 amps. A 30 amp radio becomes 37.5 amps. A 60 amp radio becomes 75 amps - and so on. This is REQUIRED to prevent the wire being used at 100% of its capacity, which would cause it to heat up. Enough heat will cause insulation to burn. Insulation comes into play below. Use the chart linked below - and use copper wire.

http://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts

In order to use this chart properly, you need to determine the insulation type. Different types affect ampacities of the conductor. Typical "romex" wire (the stuff in your house) is rated for "60 deg C (140 degrees F)". Specialty wires THW, THWN, USE, XHHW, THHN etc. are rated at "75 deg C (167 deg F)" and / or "90 deg C (194 deg F)" and have a higher ampacity for the same size copper wire than "60 deg C (140 deg F)" wire as a result. If you do not know which insulation type you have, assume the lowest "60 deg C (140 degree F)" type. Look up the amps you calculated above for your particular radio in the "60 deg C (140 deg F)" column, otherwise look it up under the column with specialty insulation types instead. If the CALCULATED amp value is NOT listed, pick the next LARGER value. Follow it back to the LEFT most column to learn the SIZE wire needed with the same insulation as listed in AMP column.

If your radio was 48 amps, it calculated to (48A x 1.25) = 60A. If you don't have the wire, you can go to a store and say you need 20 feet of #4 copper wire with "60 deg C (140deg F)" insulation, -OR - #6 copper with THW, THWN, SE, USE, or XHHN insulation - OR - #6 copper THWN2, THHN, XHHN2 or USE2 insulation.

The values above hold true regardless if in a circuit that is 6 volts or 600 volts. You should increase the wire size (lower #) on DC circuits only if the circuit length is 50 - 100 feet or more. AC circuits can be hundreds or more feet long before increasing the wire size is needed.

I hope this was helpful & good luck. I hope you've got a ham radio license before you transmit with that radio in the 10 meter band.

Testimonial: "thank u very much!"

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0helpful
1answer

How to hot wire fuel pump for 97

How to
Hot Wire Your Fuel Pump With a Relay in the Trunk




Terry Littleton - t[email protected]


You Will Need

Get 15 ft 10 gauge wire, 3 ft 14 gauge wire, and a Bosch 4 or 5
prong 30 amp relay. Any place that installs car alarms should have a Bosch
relay. Get a heavy 10/12 gauge wire 30 amp fuse holder. They can be found at
auto parts stores and come in the old glass or new plastic spade type fuses.
Make sure it is heavy wire and not like most that use like 14/16 gauge wire. You
will need 2-10 gauge butt connectors, 1-10 to 16 gauge butt connector, 2-10
gauge female spade connectors, 2-14 gauge female spade connectors, 1-10 gauge
and 1-14 gauge ring connector. Soldering gun, wire
protector.

Procedure



  1. Disconnect battery. Put a ring connector on one end of the 10
    gauge fuse wire and attach that to the post at the rear of the alternator. Run
    it over to the front of the drivers side valve cover and attach to a piece of
    ten gauge wire that you will run to the back of the car. I put mine inside the
    car and it was actually easier.



  2. Run it through the hole next to the powermaster where all the
    wires go through the firewall. I routed it over behind the emer brake pedal,
    down behind that kick panel, took off the sill plate and put it inside the
    plastic wire protector (it does come open, just a pain to figure it out). Take
    out back seat and run it from sill up to opening that goes into the trunk. There
    are other wires that do the same thing, just follow them. Bring wire down to the
    hinge support. There is already a hole right there to put a bolt and nut through
    to mount the relay. I had a radioshack relay but it broke so I got a
    Bosch
    and it seems a lot sturdier. Good choice.

  3. Just a word of caution. Follow the wires down to the side of the
    trunk floor. The copper colored wire is the one to attach the trigger wire to.
    It looks like bare copper wire but is actually coated. The coating is so hard, a
    regular scotch lock wouldn\'t make contack on mine, so I cut out a half inch
    section of the insulation and soldered the trigger wire (a small piece of 14
    gauge from the relay prong 86) to there. I wrapped it in tape and put corrugated
    wire guard over it.



  4. The ground wire from the relay (a small piece of 14 gauge from
    prong 85) can go to the bolt hole you use to mount it to the hinge support. Just
    clean off the paint first. Then hook up the 10 gauge wire from the alternator to
    post 30 on the relay. The remaining prong on a 4 prong relay is the "Power Out"
    that will feed the alternator voltage to the pump(s). If you have a 5 prong
    relay the two remaining prongs should be labeled 87 and 87a. One is the "Power
    Out" when relay is energized, the other supplies power when the relay is not
    energized. Use a test light to determine.



  5. Run the remaining heavy gauge wire from the "Power Out" prong
    (when energized) from the relay through the rear of the trunk to the fuel pump.
    Notice the plastic cover over the BIG rubber grommet that takes all those other
    wires from the trunk out under the back of the car? Forget about getting your
    new ten gauge wire through there. Just drill a hole big enough to run the wire
    through covered with some corrugated protector. I put mine right next to the
    rubber plug. Then run the ten gauge wire to the pump.



  6. The 3 wires going to the sender/pump are Black-Ground,
    Pink-Fuel Level Sender, and Brown/White Stripe-Fuel Pump motor. Cut the
    Brown/White stripe wire after the connector on the fuel pump side and attach the
    new ten gauge wire. Leave enough to reconnect stock later if desired. Put a butt
    connector on the old cut wire so it doesn\'t short on anything. I wire tied stuff
    up neat and used wire protector. If you have an external pump, you can run
    another piece of 10 gauge to it for power from where it splices into the
    original pump wire.



  7. Now the wire coming through the firewall goes over behind the
    drivers valve cover and along the back edge of it under the EGR tubing in wire
    protector and splices into the other fuse wire from the
    alternator.



  8. When you turn on the ignition, you should hear the fuel pump
    prime. The only problem I had was in the connection of the trigger wire to that
    copper colored wire in the trunk like I mentioned above.

Hope this isn\'t confusing. I did it this way to keep things neat
in the engine compartment.
0helpful
1answer

Can I install a junction box before my water heater junction box?

Junction box is fine.
Must be accessible and not hidden inside wall.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html

43 feet is not over 100 feet, so wire size can stay same.
Recommend 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire for 4500 watt water heater.
If circuit has 20 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire, recommend 3800 watt elements.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1helpful
1answer

What gauge speaker wire use for yamaha R-v905 Receiver

Luk, Home stereo speaker wire size. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
Speaker Impedance 8 Ohm Load 6 Ohm Load 4 Ohm Load Wire Gauge Distance (ft) Distance (ft) Distance (ft) 18 AWG 10 8 5 16 AWG 14 AWG 12 AWG 60 45 30 10 AWG Above chart by Audioholis
Speaker wire guide
Speaker Cable Gauge AWG Guidelines Recommendations
5 Myths About Speaker Wire
0helpful
1answer

How do I change the alternator on a 1999 dodge intrepid

Check thid procedure... Removal & Installation

2.7L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Negative battery cable Lower plastic splash shield Transmission cooler and position it aside Lower radiator crossmember support
  3. Loosen but do not remove:
    Adjusting -T- bolt and the pivot bolt Drive belt adjusting bolt
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Drive belt Alternator field circuit plug Alternator B+ terminal nut and wire Pivot bolt; be careful not to lose the spacer Alternator

    zjlimited_992.jpg

    Fig. The location of the generator on the 2.7L Engine

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    Alternator Pivot bolt with the spacer and leave loose Alternator field circuit plug Alternator B+ wire and terminal nut; then, torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) Drive belt
  2. Using a belt tension gauge, torque the adjusting -T- bolt until the tension gauge reads 120 lbs. (534 N) for a used belt or 180-200 lbs. (792-880 N) for a new belt.
    Lower radiator crossmember support Transmission cooler Lower plastic splash shield Negative battery cable
  3. Torque the bolts to the following specifications:
    1. Pivot bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
    2. 8mm mounting bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
    3. 10mm mounting bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

3.2L & 3.5L Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.

  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Negative battery cable Lower mounting bolt and pivot bolt Drive belt tension bolt Drive belt Bracket, lower mounting bolt and pivot bolt Alternator Alternator field circuit plug Alternator B+ terminal nut and wire

    zjlimited_993.jpg

    Fig. The location of the generator on the 3.2L and 3.5L engines

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    Alternator B+ wire and terminal nut; then, torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) Alternator field circuit plug Alternator Drive belt Pivot bolt and lower mounting bolt
  2. Using a belt tension gauge, torque the -V- drive belt until the tension gauge reads 120 lbs. (534 N) for a used belt or 140-160 lbs. (623-711 N) for a new belt.
  3. Using a belt tension gauge, torque the Poly -V- belt until the tension gauge reads 120 lbs. (534 N) for a used belt or 180-200 lbs. (792-880 N) for a new belt.
  4. Install the bracket.
  5. Torque the bolts to the following specifications:
    1. Pivot bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)
    2. 8mm mounting bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
    3. 10mm mounting bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Connect the negative battery cable.

Hope this helps (remember to rate tna domment this answer).
1helpful
1answer

I have a Malibu ML300RTW transformer with a 50 ft. length of 16 guage cable supporting (4) 20w lights. Can I splice on another 100' of cable and add 4 more 20w lights or is there a cable length limitation?

Usually 50 - 75 ft. is as far as you want to go, especially with 16 gauge wire. What happens is the lights get dimmer as the length of the run increases. If you don't mind the lights getting noticeably dimmer, go ahead and add the other 4 lights. Using a heavier (12 gauge) wire will help a lot. You'll want the 12 ga. to start at the transformer, preferably running the whole length. Also, using a smaller watt bulb will help.

If you have a 120 volt outlet near the approximate middle of the new (total 150 ft.) run, you could relocate the transformer to that location and have two 75 ft. runs in 2 directions.
0helpful
1answer

Can you show me a dieagram or wireing up a amp

jose_v17.jpg
The process is pretty much straight forward for any amp.
This is what you will need to get the job done:
15 ft- 4 gauge power wire (RED) with in-line fuse 3 ft - 4 Guage Ground wire (Brown) 15 ft - 12-16 Gauge Remote wire (Blue) 15 ft - RCA Wires Here are the steps:
  • BATT - (Battery +12v) - This will be a 4 guage red wire that you will run directly from your car battery to this Terminal. Be sure to buy a wire a with an inline fuse. This is the main power supply to your amp. Be careful 12 volts doesn't sound like much till you see it in action. I would do this wire last, last thing you want is a hot wire accidentally touching some bare metal.
  • GND - (Ground Wire) - This is the terminal you will use to ground the AMP. Run a 4 guage wire from this terminal and fasten it to some bare metal in your trunk. Not more than three feet.
  • RCOM /Remote - There will be a small gauge wire from the back of your stereo that will be the remote wire it will be blue, most stereos have this wire labeled. Its purpose is to send a signal to the amp to turn on when the radio is powered on.
  • RCA Wires - The location for these is not pictured above, on the back of your stereo there will be amp outputs. Your stereo will send all your low frequencies (Bass) to your amp using these wires. On the amp you will see where these wires will go. They are essential to have a system.
The best way to go about this is hook up the power, ground, and remote and test the Amp to see if it powers up. I have seen so many of my friends skip this step and they paid for it later. I hope this helps if you need any more help let me know.
1helpful
1answer

I PLAN TO RUN AN EELECT. WIRE 100 FT. FROM MY HOUSE TO A STORAGE BUILDING. THE CIRCUIT I'M CONNECTING TO IS 12 GA. WOULD THERE BE ANY BENEFIT TO USING 10 GA WIRE FROM THE HOUSE TO THE SHOP?

Yes. It is always good to use wire heavier then you require, for long runs, because resistance builds up accumulatively.
But if you need it or not depends on the actual number of amps you will be drawing from all the things in the out building at the same time, and the size of the breaker you will be attaching it to.
For example, if you were to going to run a heater and a power tool at the same time, on 12 gauge wire in the storage building, along with a couple of lights, on a 20 amp breaker, then I would suggest 10 gauge to the shed. But if you are only going to run lights and one tool at a time, from a 15 amp breaker, you could probably get away with 12 gauge.
0helpful
1answer

Need to install a cdplayer in 70 chevy truck?

Because of the year of the truck you will not have any wires pre-wired in the truck, go to a Radio Shack, car audio store or Best buy and buy yourself some speaker wire for vehicles, about 5 ft of 14 - 16 gauge yellow wire, 5 ft of 14 - 16 gauge red wire a couple of 10 amp fuses and 5ft of 4 gauge black wire.

You are going to run the Yellow, Red, Black wires together from the radio space where the radio sits in down to your steering column, the speaker wires will go to your speakers from the radio, a + and a - lead to your speakers and connect them as needed.

Now back under your dash you will connect the yellow wire from the radio to the 12 volt + wire under your steering columns 12 volt power wire with a fuse inline, if you hook up a test light to this wire it will light up the test light without the car switch being turned on, the red wire will hook up to your ignition switch wire and your balck wire to the vehicles ground chassis, basically ground that wire to a non painted surface of the vehicle. This radio needs to be hardwired like I explained.

Good luck and hope it helps.
Lex.
0helpful
2answers

Inverter shut off and turn back on..

Sounds like one of two things are happening:

1. Microwave is drawing too much current, causing internal voltage monitoring circuitry in inveter to go into protection mode.

or

2. RFI from microwave is somehow being few into inverter causing similar circumstance.
0helpful
1answer

Need to install an alternator

Removal & Installation
2.7L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Lower plastic splash shield
    • Transmission cooler and position it aside
    • Lower radiator crossmember support
  3. Loosen but do not remove:
    • Adjusting “T” bolt and the pivot bolt
    • Drive belt adjusting bolt
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Drive belt
    • Alternator field circuit plug
    • Alternator B+ terminal nut and wire
    • Pivot bolt; be careful not to lose the spacer
    • Alternator 0900c152801d4a1e.jpg
    (The location of the generator/alternator on the 2.7L Engine)
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Alternator
    • Pivot bolt with the spacer and leave loose
    • Alternator field circuit plug
    • Alternator B+ wire and terminal nut; then, torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
    • Drive belt
  2. Usinga belt tension gauge, torque the adjusting “T” bolt until the tensiongauge reads 120 lbs. (534 N) for a used belt or 180–200 lbs. (792–880N) for a new belt.
    • Lower radiator crossmember support
    • Transmission cooler
    • Lower plastic splash shield
    • Negative battery cable
  3. Torque the bolts to the following specifications:
    1. Pivot bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
    2. 8mm mounting bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
    3. 10mm mounting bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3.2L And 3.5L Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Lower mounting bolt and pivot bolt
    • Drive belt tension bolt
    • Drive belt
    • Bracket, lower mounting bolt and pivot bolt
    • Alternator
    • Alternator field circuit plug
    • Alternator B+ terminal nut and wire 0900c152801d4a1f.jpg
    (The location of the generator/alternator on the 3.2L and 3.5L engines)
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Alternator B+ wire and terminal nut; then, torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
    • Alternator field circuit plug
    • Alternator
    • Drive belt
    • Pivot bolt and lower mounting bolt
  2. Usinga belt tension gauge, torque the “V” drive belt until the tension gaugereads 120 lbs. (534 N) for a used belt or 140–160 lbs. (623–711 N) fora new belt.
  3. Using a belt tension gauge, torque the Poly “V”belt until the tension gauge reads 120 lbs. (534 N) for a used belt or180–200 lbs. (792–880 N) for a new belt.
  4. Install the bracket.
  5. Torque the bolts to the following specifications:
    1. Pivot bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
    2. 8mm mounting bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
    3. 10mm mounting bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Hope this is what you were looking for.

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