How to remove axle gears

You will NEED TO BUY a new axle housing from Jasper
or other vendor

I don't know if they will even give you core credit on that one

You surely must know the vehicle has to be parked

The rear axles-- if they even turn-- will not have any gear lube
to the end housing bearings

Your done & need other transportation

Why did it break the housing?

Even if it ran dry & seized I doubt that happens often

Andrea, it's been a long while since you've posted this question. I only hope for your sake the problem has since been taken care of, but if not, please let me know and I'll talk you through the steps to taking the rear axle out. It all starts in the rear pumpkin. You need to remove the tires and rear brake assemblies, but then you have to shift your attention to the rear gear housing. There are several pins in the gear box that need to come out, then the axles will slide out the respective sides.

If you can, email my link directly and I'll give you more in depth instruction.

You must remove the rear cover of the differential and then remove the bolt that pins in the center pin that the pinion gears are mounted on, then push the axles inward and remove the "C" shaped clips that retain the axles in the gear carrier. The axle bearings are pressed into the axle tubes and you need a special tool to remove them, this goes for the axle grease seal as well. You will need to buy this tool kit on line or locally for more money.. Go to this LINK

you can remove the axles and the drive shaft then open the differential to remove the carrier gear assembly(ring gear,side gears)then remove the pinion gear.replace these with the new gear set and get the clearance specs for the pinion depth and carrier gear clearance and adjust until within specs.you can either pickup new gear sets or one from the wreckers with the shims to start with.you will need a backlash dial gage to know if the backlash clearance is within specs as well as marking ink to know if the gear mating surface is riding in the proper area of contact.

First thing is to make sure you chock the front tires so the truck will not roll. Raise the rear end and set it on jack stands. Put the transmission in Neutral and make sure the parking brake is off. Remove the rear tires and disassemble the brakes on the side with the leaking seal. Place a drain pan under the rear differential and remove the cover. Remove the differential shaft lock bolt. You will need to turn the drive shaft by hand to access the bolt. It will be on the right side off the spider gear housing. Only use a 5/16 or 8mm 6 point box end wrench to remove the bolt. After you remove the bolt reach on the top of the spider gear housing and push the differential lock shaft down to remove it. Make sure the spider gears do not rotate after you remove the shaft. If they do you will need to realign everything to reinstall the lock shaft. Push the axle shaft in enough to remove the "C" clip from the tip of it. The axle will now slide out of the rear end. You can use the tip of the axle shaft to remove the axle seal. If you're changing the bearing as well you will need a slide hammer with axle bearing adapters to remove it. You can use a socket and hammer to install the new bearing and seal. Be careful not to damage the bearing and seal. I recommend packing grease in the back side of the seal. This helps prevent the spring on the seal lip from coming off. Assembly is the reverse. Clean off all the gear oil from the differential cover and the axle. You can use RTV as a gasket if the OEM gasket is damaged. Fill the rear end with new gear oil of the proper type. Refer to your owner's manual.

You need to remove the rear wheel and brake drum, support the axle housing with a good jackstand. Remove the rear diff cover and find the bolt that goes through one end of the spider gear shaft (smaller gears in center section) Be careful when removing shaft or turning gears that the small gears don't walk out of the housing. Once the shaft has been removed, push the axle in and remove the retaining clip on the inside end, then pull axle out. Reverse procedure to install.

Your right axle-shaft (intermediate-shaft) appears to be the problem here. (The right axle-shaft has a bearing in it that gets bad periodcally).
Remove the wheel cover.
Open up the axle nut side with a flat-end screw driver.
Loosen the front axle nut with the 32mm socket.
Remove the front wheel.
Jack up the car and support it on jack-stands.
Remove the brake calipers and tie it up to the strut-spring.
(Check your engine mount, transmission mount)
Remove the cotter-pin from the tie-rod nut.
Loosen and remove the tie-rod nut.
Pry off the balljoints out of the steering-knuckle(watch-out for the black rubber boot on the tie-rod).
Loosen and remove the strut bolts.
Push out the strut from the steering-knuckle.
Remove the bolts that's holding the bearing on the middle of the shaft-3pieces in all.
Use a large pry-bar to pry off the axle-shaft from its immediate end, or transmission case and flange.
Take out the axle-shaft.
Plug off the axle-shaft hole with a rag to stop oil flow.
Replace the axle shaft with a new one, and tighten the axle-shaft bolts bolts starting with the left bolt first, then the right bolt-second, and the upper bolt-third.
Reverse removal of these steps for installation.
When done: Add the required quantity of fluid/gear-oil to the gear-box to compensate for lost fluid/gear-oil.

First, remove the lower end of the speedo cable from the speedo gear box on the front axle. Then, lift the front wheel off the ground and remove the wheel. To remove the speedo-drive gear box, unscrew the axle nut that holds it in place. With the speedo-drive removed, inspect the two flanges that fit into the slots on the wheel hub, making sure they haven't gotten bent - or sheared off. When you turn flange on the speedo-drive, it should turn freely and you should be able to see the speedo cable drive-blade spinning. If not, then you will need to replace the whole unit because the worm gear inside has become excessively worn.

need to have someone help by pushing in on axle then remove the clip than same for other side

Remove the differential cover let fluid drain. While draining remove the tire on the side with the bad bearing. Remove the brake drum. remove the spider gears if it has a open diff. If not an open diff you will need to get a book at a parts house about $20. After removing spider gears remove the axle C-clip then pull the axle out. You will need a bearing seperator to remove the bearing. An oldschool trick for installing the new bearing with out a press is to stick the axle in a freezer for about 2 hours about 30 minutes before removing the axle put the bearing in an oven at 350 degrees (wear gloves when getting the bearing out) Quickly remove the axle and then remove the bearing and immediatly install the bearing it should drop onto the axle right where the old bearing was I like to take a puch and tat the inside of the bearing to make sure it has seated all the way.
Any questions please let me know
Have a great day