I hate to say it, Sandra, but that problem usually doesn't involve an easy/cheap fix. I run a 1200 here, so I know from whence you speak. If this is an "under warranty unit", I'd box it up and swap it out.
BUT, if not, and you're any good at dis-assembly/re-assembly or know someone who is, I HAVE fixed problems like this with the "pressure" method. It worked on a Chevy digital dash that was blanking out on me and a couple music keyboards.
Power it down and unplug the power cord, dis-assemble it to the point you can see the board that feeds the display. Very carefully plug the power cord back in and power it up. While avoiding touching any of the boards or connections with your bare hands/fingers, use a pencil eraser and lightly apply pressure to different spots on that board until (maybe) the display lights - indicating a loose connection; probably a bad solder joint in that area. Trying to repair it would probably fry it, unless you're an ace solderer.
Now, the trick is to remember that spot, use a piece of non-conductive material, like a small wad of electrical tape big enough that it would apply a similar constant pressure to it at that point once it's re-assembled. I know - sounds bizarre, but I've made it work where soldering was impossible without a professional teardown.
Good luck,
jim
SOURCE: I have a Roland FP-8 that I used for performances.
you have some internal components bad audio output IC, capacitors, driver transistors etc. your doing nothing wrong.
maybe just don't leave it on if your not playing it. Heat kills Electronics.
SOURCE: I have a Roland FP-8 that I used for performances.
your sound process digitaliser has burned out the crackling should have warned you as to the fault and had it replaced (fixed) right away this is a simple repair but does need to be done by an electronics tech
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