Missing parts Got box 1 and 2 no screws drawer glides drawer base drawer front screws and connecting effects

The freezer drawer front is held onto the glide-out rails with screws on either side. These will be 10mm. Once the screws are removed you can lift the drawer front up and off the rails.Be careful when replacing to keep both left and right rails the same distance out from the cabinet so that they close evenly.

Yes, but it's kind of hard to explain with text and no pictures. Basically, you have to find and press on the catches at the front of the glides, so you can push the glides back about 2 inches. Then push the left glide in all the way, and you can lift off the drawer from the right glide and rotate it 90 degrees CCW and rest it on the floor. The most common reason for the drawer not going in all the way, or not wanting to pull the drawer in, is a bad spring/trip assembly which is part of the glide - which means you have to change or both glide assemblies.

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At the back of your drawer, there should be 2 guide or glides. These glides have a slit in them.... Now pull out your drawer and look inside the frame of the range where the drawer goes. You will see a horizontal bar or or rail that goes from the front of the drawer area to the back, on both sides of the range. Those glides on the back of your drawer are supposed to "hug" that rail. Or to put it another way, that rail must go in the slot of the glides. Of course, if you are missing 1 or both of the glides, or if they are broken, then that is why the drawer falls to the floor when you open it.

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Most likely you need to replace the drive, they are very cheap on ebay. Here is how to replace it 1st power up and open tray then unplug. remove front of tray, it unclips at bottom, pull out and up then slides off. remove screws and take the entire drive out. Remove base plate of replacement drive and screw down into the two rear mountings. Remove facia of Recorder and cut out the three little pieces of moulding directly above where the tray drawer will be, this prevents the drive from being forced down at the front. With facia off fit the drive back onto the now screwed down base plate. Replace facia, connect drive power up and open drawer then unplug. On the drawer front cut off the centre small moulding because it doesn't line up with the cut outs in the drawer, the other two do, slide the front downwards onto the drawer then press at the bottom till it clips in. Job done. My 5005 now reads much faster and recognises all discs prior to this Invalid Disc on everything, cleaned lens and it would then only see pre-recorded films etc but no blank discs.

remove the 2 front panel screws..then pull the bottom of the front panel to you and then grasp the sides of the panel tilting it our to about 35 degrees and the front panel comes off.
Reach down and push the motor toward the center of the washer from the left corner and then let go. It should slide / glide back to the original position. There are 4 neopreme gliders in the motor mount base. Usually one or more of them cracks / break over time and the end result is a slow spin.

This is the reair kit for the motor glides:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4023752&pn_=2-5000

You have to remove the motor pulley and then the motor to change these glides. (No Power to washer of course) You can leave the motor wires connected and just lay the motor on the inside washer base. The motor glide assy has to be separated from the motor to change the glides. Use the lubricant in the kits.on the motor mount and glides.

Note the break down of your washer base parts here:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=26850

There is more that we could check but... until you check the motor glides I will not elaborate. On older units this less than $10.00 parts kit most often corrects the problem. I would much rather go step by step because we can inflict outer problems by not following tedious repairs procedures for the spin drive components..

You should check / replace the belts on your washer. They are items 18 and 19 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=26850&diagram_id=28437654#d28437654

You can save on belts by ordering this set:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4011179

Not that to install the front panel you must tilt the bottom toward you about 30 degrees and latch the clips in the top panel then close and secure the front panel with the 2 screws.

I will watch for any responses.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Two screws is all that needs to be removed. These screws have a nut so you will need a wrench. The screws are located at the front of the metal rail that the drawer rides on. Empty the drawer, remove the screws and slightly lift and pull the drawer free.

If you are having a problem with the door staying shut like I did the part responsible is the little white square box called a 'Latch' located at the front bottom of the casing, in the middle held by two screws. A black 'strike' on the door inserts into this Latch. If the strike is good the latch should be the problem.

Strike Part Number: 137006900

Latch Part Number: 137006200


Here is a web page with a break down of the parts: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Electrolux-Parts/All-Products-Parts/Model-EPWD15RR2/1412/0153050/R1007111/00001

Hoping the web page isn't against any rules, if so I'm sorry...

Ok, This is pretty easy after the first time. With the drawer completely opened, on the bottom of the drawer on each side, slide your index finger along the glide, clear to the front of the drawer. Directly behind the front panel you will find the tab you are looking for. Push this tab in while forcing the glide back towards the dish washer body with your thumb. Be careful when pushing back or you may leave a little hide form the thumb knuckle. I have this same dish washer and tried these directions on my wife. I guess I forgot to mention to do one side at a time.!! After both rails or glides have been pushed back you may gently lift the drawer out for repairs or drying.The bottom drawer may set on the floor but the top drawer will need to be set on a bucket or a box. Also, you don't want to pull out the wire harness or the harness holder which retracts the wiring as the drawer goes in and out.

Went back to Lowes to talk to a sales personal. He informed me that there are two screws at the front of the drawer (one per side) After removing these screws (you will need to put them back after) the drawer will be removable from the pedestal base.

There is a screw in the bottom of the two back corners that holds the drawer glide in place. Remove the glide and then you'll be able put it back the way it belongs.

Rich, I can't bring anything up on that model number but if this is like the other front load models there should be a small magnet on the right side of the detergent drawer. On most front loaders if this magnet is missing, it won't start. As you pull the drawer out look to the right side just behind the front part of the drawer. The magnet itself would be about 1/4 in. by 1/2 inch. If you don't see one and you have a magnet around the house place it on the right side where the drawer would make contact to see if the washer funtions...Good luck,