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At the rear of the alternator is a little D-shaped hole near where the two wires plug into the side. With the engine running, insert a short copper wire into that hole - it should only go in about 3/8" or so. There's a little contact inside, and the point of this procedure is to intentionally short-circuit that little contact to the body of the alternator. If the regulator's good, you should suddenly hear the engine labor a little, or hear the fan belt start squeaking a little like it's working harder than normal. When that little contact is shorted on a good regulator, it tells the regulator to charge 100%, full-bore. Voltage should rise sharply while your wire's in there.
When you pull your wire back out, voltage should drop to normal again.
If the regulator's bad, then shorting the little contact will have no effect at all.
You might want to be sure you're getting voltage to the two small wires that plug into the alternator's side - if you're not, the alternator won't charge right if at all. One wire should be energized when the key's turned on, the other is a sense line but should also show voltage with the key turned on.
If the alternator has only one wire connected to it, someone has swapped out the original-style alternator for a one-wire alternator. I have mixed feelings about those. The only way to test them is measure their voltage output - if lower than about 12 or higher than about 14.5, the regulator's not working right. It SHOULD be right around 13.8 volts.
Left coil feeds 1 and 4...right coil feeds 2 and 3...as long as you stick to this it doesn't matter which lead goes to which plug. Left coil will have one short lead and one long...short =1...long = 4. Right coil leads will be about even in length...doesn't matter which goes to 2 or 3.
It's a wasted spark system so plugs 1 and 4 fire together...2 and 3 fire together...only 1 cylinder in each pair will be compressed and ready to fire when the spark happens, the other will be empty and coming on to it's inlet stroke...
Try a slim jim first, down the side of the window. Or AAA or locksmith. If no luck, remove the seat first. Find the screws and bolts around the door handle and arm rest. Most Ford's have screws around the outer side of the panel. I don't believe your's does. The panel lifts or pops off. Once the panel is off, you can reach down and open the door. Just a note. I have done some to where the panel came out in pieces.
Leave the charger cord plugged into the back of the chair and wrap the cord around the right armrest near the joystick. You can then plug it into a power strip located near your bed from the seated position. It won't hurt to have it near where you can reach it Just make sure that its secured when not being used and won't fall off the armrest Hope this helps
If the wires are still in the distributer, AND, if you have a stock intake manifold, the firing order is on the manifold. If it's a V-8, the number 1, 3, 5, & 7 plugs are on the drivers side of the engine. The number 2, 4, 6, & 8 plugs are on the passenger side. The number 1 plug wire can be located by looking at the distributer from the front of the engine and visually looking between the distributer and the number 1 plug. Visualize the distributer as a clock. The number one position should be located between 4 and 5 o'clock and should have the longest wire of those on that side of the distributer.
If the wires have been pulled from the distributer, then, then, remove the rotor cap, turn the engine over slowly until the rotor is pointing to the number 1 plug. Using the firing order on the intake manifold, starting with number 1, replace the wires going clockwise around the distributer.
First, I would check all the usual suspects. Roll over valve, fuel petcock, vacuum line to petcock, fuel cap vent, fuel filters(all three), coils, crank sensor, sparkplug HT wires and caps. All electical connections(side stand switch, clutch switch, ignition switch, engine cutoff switch). Battery condition. Wireing harness around the headstock(broken wires due to pushing/pulling on harness). Also check the plug for the alarm unit located in front of the battery box. Corosion in the plug can cause an intermitent short on the gray with green-dot wire that goes to the Igniter(there is a wire that loops around on the back side of the plug). Check all these things before throwing money at it. Also, the Igniter can be tested at a Triumph dealer. Baxter Cycle (www.baxtercycle.com) would be a good source for used parts from breakers. I've heard of someone that has rebuilt Igniters to swap, but I'll have to search for them again, I think in the UK or Europe.
Hope this helps.
If it won't charge and wont power up then same thing happened to me. If you are willing to open up your psp there is a video on youtube that can show you whats wrong. The cable that connects the buttons on the right side most likely disconnected from the main board and the right side of the psp including the buttons, the power switch and the top right trigger won't respond. When you try to turn on the psp and when its charging if the light won't come on then you might have this problem.
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