Life Fitness 4000 repeatedly blows outlet circuit breaker

You have a dead short to earth and is almost certainly on the motor. This link should find you someone local.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Life+fitness+4500HR+treadmill+repair

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I'm thinking that the rectifier inside the charger has a dead short or a winding of the transformer has developed a short. Either way, it's time for a new charger.

no
a fuse is there to protect the circuit and the genset
check why the de-icer is pulling so many amps as the problem may be in that unit
a 10 amp outlet has a maximum current capacity of 10 amps as that is the current allowable from the gen set and wire capacity
even if you had an outlet with 15 amp rating , it would still be blowing fuses as the 16 amps is above the allowable current draw
you would need a 20 amp outlet ( difficult to get unless it is in a house power board and are normally reserved for hot water systems , stoves and other high current usage units and are normally then not outlets but hard wired in to a circuit breaker

Your microwave should be on a 20 amp dedicated circuit. Often people add these later after initial construction and do not have an isolated circuit for it. If you have this on a circuit with other outlets or possibly the refrigerator, this can cause the circuit overload and trip your breaker. Try running an extension cord from another circuit that is not being used such as outlets, but not GFI outlets! and see if your microwave operates then. If not you have an internal issue with the microwave and it could be a defective Magnetron or doorswitch assy causing the problem.

have the new tread mill checked under warranty as it should not blow breakers from new

i am in the uk so i dont no if this will sound right,but have you tried changing the fuse in the plug of the fridge? make sure you put the same size fuse back in.

A circuit breaker can go bad, but usually not in the way that you describe. That's not to say that it can't happen, but just not typical. GTE Sylvania breakers were once popular - I installed quite a few GTE / Sylvania electrical panels in homes in the late 80's. You may have trouble finding replacements; do not put an breaker that "fits" into the panel, unless the breaker is designed for use in the panel you have.

The first thing to do is determine the source of the problem. The breaker will trip, but not indicate if it was the result of a heavy electrical load or a ground fault condition. A 15 amp circuit breaker is designed to carry up to 12 amps continuously. The greater the load, the more quickly it will trip. it may carry a 14.5 amp load for several minutes to an hour before tripping, and a 20 amp load may be carried a second or two. GFI breakers are designed to carry 5 thousandths (.005) of an amp (or 5 milliamps) to ground, or the 12+ amps to neutral before they trip.

The way I would attack the problem is to install a new GFI outlet in front of the old wiring, by "inserting it" between the panel and the other plugs and lights, switches, etc on that circuit. The GFI outlet will provide the same GFI protection that the circuit breaker provided at a fraction of the cost.

Turn off the old GFI breaker, and remove it completely. Install a new, standard (non-GFI) single pole 15 amp circuit breaker in its place. Completely remove from the panel the cable that the old GFI breaker fed. Buy a new electrical outlet box (surface or flush mount as desired) that is large enough and deep enough for a GFI plug and 2 cables (if surface mount, use a 4" square deep box and appropriate cover - or if flush mounting use a deep plastic / fiber single gang box). It will be installed in a place close to the panel, but where the old cable will be able to reach inside. Bring the old cable removed from the panel into the new box. Run a new cable that has the same number and size wires from the panel into the new box, too. Connect the circuit neutral and circuit ground to the neutral and ground bars in the panel (they are probably the same bar) and the hot wire to the circuit breaker. make sure that the circuit breaker is OFF. Twist the two ground wires together and combine an 8 inch length of bare or green insulated wire with them in a wirenut.

Next, wire a new GFI plug in the new box. Connect the green wire from the wirenut to the green terminal of the GFI outlet.

Connect the plug's LINE terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you ran from the panel to the outlet box.

Now, connect the GFI plug's LOAD terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you removed from the panel and reinstalled into the new outlet box.

Secure the GFI outlet into the box and install the cover. Cover the electrical panel.

Power up and test. if the GFI trips, there's a ground fault in the circuit. If the circuit breaker trips, the circuit is overloaded.

Some things to check for any dryer (or appliance):

1) Check is making sure that it is securely plugged into the outlet.
2) Locate and reset any tripped ground fault outlets.
3) Locate and reset any tripped circuit breaker / replace blown fuse.

There may be resetable devices on the dryer which I'm not familiar with - but as I mentioned, the items above apply to any appliance. Hopefully, that's as far as you'll need to go to get it working again.

Any ground fault plug or circuit breaker that repeatedly trips (or fuse that repeatedly blows) is in an indication of a SERIOUS problem that needs to be resolved. Constant reseting will only cause the problem to grow worse - or increase the chances of shock or burns. Only replace fuses with the same size and rating.

I hope this was helpful!

Is your unloader dumping properly? This is the device that allows the head pressure to bleed off after stopping to make the restart easier. Is this device rated at 15 amps or 20? Have you tried a 20 amp circuit?

Do not - repeat - Do not change the breakers to oversome this difficulty. The breakers are in place to protect the wire in your home. Normally, a 15 amp circuit will have #14 wire. #14 wire cannot (and will not, for very long), carry 20 amps without melting or burning. 20 amp breaker protects #12 wire; 30 amps protects #10 wire.

If you continue to have this problem, you may want to have your compressor looked at by a professional electrician.

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hi. I can help you.

Electric dryers use 220 volts or two power lines of 110 volts each. Some components in the dryer need only 110 volts; the heating element requires 220 volts. So it's possible for one part of the dryer to be fine and another part to have a short circuit. Short circuits can be caused by the heating element, the main power cord, or any other part of the internal wiring. To decide where the problem lies, unplug the dryer, then:

• If the circuit breakers or fuses remain on and/or intact when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the dryer. Contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
  
  
• If the circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the house wiring, fuse box, or circuit box. Contact a qualified electrician.