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There are a couple of tricks. One is to put the belt on the shaft first and them roll it onto the brush roller. The other way which I did in my hotel (I had 3 of them) is to pull the brush out, put the belt on the spindle shaft, then onto the roller, the you can stretch the belt with it already in place and lower the roller into place.
first is it HYDRO or belt driven?
hydro fluid is low old or wore out, or belt slipping
belt drive belts stretched, oil on them, tension spring off,
or belts just worn out
No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.
Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.
Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.
Or try the hand test:
If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.
- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.
Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)
Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.
On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.
next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block
If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.
Sounds like a seized bearing,or one that is barely moving within the belt system.Anything that is within the belt system,try turning by hand with the belt off.Although,all parts may not be turnable by hand,depending on what drives it,or what the belt drives.Either way,that is a definite symptom of belts being 'eaten up'.Something seized.Is this a chain saw?Doesn't sound like it.If it is NOT,please tell me what it actually is and I can give you better ideas as to what it may be.Greg
sounds like something lock up take belt off and you should be able to turn all pulleys by hand except bottom crank pulley the one that does not turn is your problem
Hi:
You need to removed the serpentine belt, and inspect all of the accessory components that the belt drives. Spin the alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, and the tensioner by hand, and see if any of them are binding or turning hard. My daughter's car was stalling out, and barely starting, and it was caused by a bad alternator.
Hope you find the culprit!
Remove the back panel, then the top and sides metal plate, the the fron (after removing the head cap and three tape guide rollers). Keep the parts together in a save place.
Then remove the head bracket. Behind the heads, the drive belt is located. Remove the old one, clean the small and large wheel with some isopropyl ethanol and then attach the belt preferably without touching it with bare hands (use some dentist's gloves for example). Finally reassemble all parts in reverse order.
You can get spare belts for the X-3 ad X-3R or MKii over at eBay.It's also easy to replace the couner belt once you've removed the front panel.
hi
Step 1: Locate the belt by removing the back or front service panel. Depending on the type of dryer you own, you may have to prop up the drum to keep it from sagging. Don't let the drum hang; the bolts that hold it in the cabinet could be damaged. Don't remove any more parts than necessary. Step 2: Identify the belt. The old belt may be threaded around the idler pulley and motor drive shaft. Draw a diagram showing how the pulley is installed so you'll be able to replace it properly. If the old belt is worn or frayed, but not broken, leave it around the drum as a pattern for positioning the new belt; cut the old belt and remove it when the new belt is in position. Step 3: Remove the old belt from the pulleys and stretch the replacement belt into place. The new belt must extend around the dryer drum and the pulleys. The trick is to align the belt on the drum with the pulleys -- the ribs on the new belt go against the drum. Step 4: Once the belt is aligned, turn the drum by hand, if possible, to make sure the belt is tracking. You may have to reassemble part of the cabinet to do this.
Some older dryers have a V-belt pulley drum drive. With this system, two or three pulleys of different sizes set the speed of the drum. To change this type of belt, decrease the tension on the idler pulley and install the new belt in the V-grooves of all pulleys. Then place the idler pulley back into position. With any dryer, make absolutely sure that you replace the old belt with a new one made especially for the dryer. Any difference in belts can change the speed of the drum and cause problems with other dryer components.
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