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The underhood connections can work by themselves...POS to POS, and NEG to NEG...sometimes dirty/weak connections do not allow the power to transfer fully from the underhood connections...if this is the case then you need to connect directly to the battery in trunk for full power charge...again POS to POS, and NEG to NEG...hope this helps
If all you are doing is changing to a side post battery, just connect all the positive cables from the old pos post to the new pos holder and all the neg ones to the new neg holder. If you've already cut them all off and not sure where each wire goes, all the reds are positive, all the blacks are neg. To make sure use your continuity meter to test. Connect one meter lead to any good clean metal part on the car and test between each black wire in turn, the neg ones will show a circuit, the pos ones will not.
just use a ziner diod neg leg of ziner sold to positive of charging connector and positive of ziner to battery connector plus ur problem will be solved
u can find ziner diod in old mobile like 1100 , 3300, 3310, 6600 etc.
Here's how it goes:
Speaker wires:
grey=right front pos.
grey/black=right front neg.
white=left front pos.
white/black=left front neg.
violet=right rear pos.
violet/black=right rear neg.
green=left rear pos.
green/black=left rear neg.
red=12 volt switched power source
yellow=12 volt constant power source (direct to battery)
black=chassis ground
orange/white=illumination (switched source,not to head light switch)
blue/white=amp turn on lead (to remote turn on lead of amp)
blue=auto antenna (switched power source)
brown=phone mute lead (to cell phone mute lead)
RCA connector leads:
grey lead:
red=right front
white=left front
black lead:
red=right rear/right rear subwoofer
white=left rear/left rear subwoofer
(connect to external amp)
red lead:
red=right aux input
white=left aux input
(connect to external unit)
green lead:
red=right dual zone output
white=left dual zone output
(connect to wireless head phones)
That should be all there is. on the yellow that goes direct to the battery you need to use an inline fuse holder with 30 amp fuse.
put the leads of a volt meter on the batery terminals,pos to pos, neg to neg,check volts with engine off,start engine,and slowly open up and volts should rise to about 13,5-14,if no increase in volts then the charging system needs checking,alternater,recifier,connections,
it depends on the amp what can it handle. will it do 2 4 or 8 ohm is it 1 ohm stable are the subs dual 2 ohms or dual 4 ohms. 1042s are dual 4 ohm subs so if you wire them both in paralel it will drop both subs into a 2 ohm load for each sub that is pos of one coil to pos of sec coil then pos to pos on amp and same with neg to neg to neg on amp. now if your amp is 1 ohm stable i would do both subs the same way you will get the most power out of the amp. but itll run a littl hot if you dont have adaquate power running to the amp. now i wanna think your alpine amp maybe only 4 ohm stable. i would run both subs like i had said pos to pos then neg to neg now both subs will be a 2 ohm load so what you do to bring it back up to 4 is you run the 2 bridged subs into a series which is pos from one sub to neg of the other sub the remaining pos and neg will run to the amps pos and neg. which will make it into a 4 ohm load. now the last scenereo is your amp is 4 ohm or 2 ohm stable. this is how to wire it to 2 ohms and not 1. take one sub go pos to neg then pos to pos on amp and neg to neg on amp this will make an 8 ohm load with one sub take other sub and do the same neg to pos on sub then pos to pos on amp and neg to neg on amp this will tell amp to run a 2 ohm load. 2 ohms is a good run for these subs if the amp can handle a 2 ohm load. now if you would have given the amp model number i could have looked it up to just give you what you needed but with this short info i gave all possibilities.
Basic wiring dictates that with a speaker with 4 voice coils all at 4 ohms each is meant to be wired in parallel. This will put the load at a 1 ohm total load on the amplifier. Wiring in parallel is positive out from amp to pos. to pos. to pos. to pos.. And neg. out from amp to neg., to neg., to neg., to neg..
If battery is out of the vehicle, connect positive lead to positive terminal and negative lead to negative terminal.
If battery is in the vehicle, the proper way to connect leads depends on if it's a negative-grounded or a positive-grounded vehicle.
Here is a link to the manual for this charger. Click where it says "Get This manual" (it's free).
Scroll down to pages 4 and 5 and it give detailed instructions on the proper way to connect leads and a lot more. It's a good manual to keep for future use.
u should have two pos, an two neg. on the back of the sub run a wire from one pos to the other same with neg. now just run a pos an neg from the box to one side of the sub u should have one side with two wires runing to the pos. an neg. if u need more help let me know [email protected]
To get 36 volts, number batteries 1 thru 3. connect pos 2 to neg 1, connect pos 3 to neg 2, connect pos 1 to trolling motor controller and neg 3 to ground on trolling motor. This is only a solution for 3 battery system. For 4 battery system, connect 4 to 3 pos to pos and neg to neg. [email protected]
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