Indoor temperature+humidity not working. temperature continues to rise into high 80's and humidity shows 0%

• Indoor (32°-122°F/0°-50°C) and outdoor (-4°-140°F/-20°-60°C) temperatures. Lower outdoor temperatures achievable with lithium batteries; Indoor and outdoor humidity. Includes temperature and humidity trend indicators; Daily min/max recall for temperature and humidity. Features a calendar and clock with alarm; The wireless remote sensor transmits up to 200 ft. The base station and wireless remote require 2 AAA batteries each, not include. If you want essay related topic you can go for custom essay writing service will get better result.

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That depends upon the operating environment of the a/c system.The high side is directly related to the outside temperature and the low side depends upon the indoor temp, air flow across the evaporator coil, the relative indoor humidity and the static pressures of the duct system. There really is no rule of thumb to go by here but if all is operating properly then you should see something like this:

At 80° F the high should read from 277 psi to 295 psi with a clean condenser coil and the low will be about 116 psi to 130 psi or so if the blower and inside coil are functioning properly and the house temp is not too high or low.

*CAUTION*
If you are working with the high pressure of R410A refrigerant, also known by the trade name of Puron, then please take precautions to avoid accidental exposure of the face, eyes and exposed skin of the refrigerant and the POE oil it contains. Severe frostbite, lung damage and loss of eyesight may occur if exposure to raw refrigerant is experienced. Please consider calling a professional in your area to work on any refrigerant system.

Hello, is there water going down the drain tube, if so then the humidifier is working. The pad does not really get saturated the water just trickles on the pad and the the fan blows it into the air duct. your outside air temp determines what your humidistat should be set at.

Outside Temperature -10 F 0 F 10 F 20 F 30 F Recommended Indoor
Relative Humidity 20% 25% 30% 35% 35%

If the humidity has been condensing or happening for a period of tmie longer than 3-4 hours, this watch should be taken to a Certified Master Horologist in your local area as soon as possible. The timepiece should be opened, dried out, resealed, and water tested.

If humidity comes and goes away within 3-4 hours it is a normal occurrence from extreme temperature change (A/C to outdoor heat, vice versa) (Outdoor cold to indoor heat, vice versa).

It sounds like you are low on charge. I think you have a thermostatic expansion valve and you need to check the subcooling, you should have 12 to 15 degrees at 95. At 95 degrees your head should be about 280# for a 12 or 13 SEER unit or higher depending on the effeciency. At 78 to 80 degrees indoor depending on the humidity, that is normal. The valve will open to try to fully feed your indoor coil and it sounds like your head pressure is to low to force enough refrigerant thru the coil.

as for high tempreture do u mean it is above the 0 degree normal that its supposed to be set to your freezer goes into a defrost cycel once every 6-8 hours.if your tempreture is rising on the other hand there are a couple things for you to check make sure the fan inside the freezer compartment is running.the following things you will need a meter for to measure the resistance while the power is off check the t-stat,heater to make sure there is continuity if you have continuity in both of these then you would need to check the defrost timer If you are unable to do these tests i strongly suggest you call a technician

It depends on the indoor and outdoor temperature and humidity. The low side pressure can be in the area of 135# to 145# with an indoor temperature of 80° and 50% relative humidity, and the outdoor pressure can be in the area of 300# to 330# on a 95° day depending on effeciency rating.
If your asking this to charge your a/c this is not how to charge your a/c.
Charging AC by superheat and subcool
First charging a unit by superheat, this is only for Acs with an orifice or capillary tube.
Optimum superheat is 12° to 15° at the compressor or suction line outside the unit.
Hook up your gages and put a thermometer on suction line (large line), start the AC. Measure the temperature of the suction line and read the pressure on your gages. Theres a temperature scale on your gages for R-22 or R-410A the needle will show you the pressure on the outer scale and if you follow it down to the R-22 or R-410a inner scale that is the saturation temperature for that refrigerant, (you can also use a temperature pressure chart), now read the thermometer, let’s say the suction temperature( the thermometer) is 67° and the saturation temperature (the gages or temp. press. Chart), is 55°, subtract the saturation temperature from the suction temperature, 67°- 55° = 12° superheat.
Charging by Subcooling, this is for Acs with a thermostatic expansion valve, it’s common to see a sight glass on the liquid line (on these units with a sight glass just clear it, when, indoor room is at approximate set point of the thermostat). Optimum sub cooling is 12° to 15° at the outdoor unit.
Hook up your gages and put a thermometer on liquid line (small line), start the AC. Measure the temperature of the liquid line and read the pressure on your gages. Theres a temperature scale on your gages for R-22 or R-410A the needle will show you the pressure on the outer scale and if you follow it down to the R-22 or R-410a inner scale that is the saturation temperature for that refrigerant,(you can also use a temperature pressure chart), now read the thermometer, let’s say the liquid temperature( the thermometer) is 100° and the saturation temperature (the gages or temp. press. Chart), is 114°, subtract the liquid temperature from the saturation temperature, 114°- 100° = 14° subcool.

I assume r-22 refrigerant by the pressure... you have a saturate temperature of approximately 41 degree and 71 degrees at the service port this equates to a 30 degree superheat. a condenser saturation temperature of 105 degrees and since the liquid line temp at the service valve is not given only the enterin indoor coil on the liquid line a 96 degree temperature this would equate to a subcooling temperatureof about nine degrees. You have too high of a superheat reading. verify that the bulb for the txv is correctly positioned and insulated. if it is then you need to remove the bulb from the suction line, hold it in your hand to warm it up and see if the superheat changes. you could also have issues with your ductwork. If the supply temperture is around 50-55 degrees then the unit is doing all it can.. Check the txv and the ductwork as the subcooling indicates that the condenser side is doing it's job, but the superheat readings indicate that you are starving the evaporator..

Unless equipped with special equipment most dehumidifiers will produce little if any water under 65-70 degrees. Many state operation down to 50-60 degrees but this was under lab conditions and therefore a marketing tool. The best performance is gained when the air temperature is above 70 degrees. The water you are finding is from melting frost, if you have a humidity problem you should be adding heat to the area to be dried, warm air holds much more moisture than cold and drying is much more effective if you can heat the area to around 80 degrees.