I succeeded in getting one of these switches to work in a hall light with conventional wiring. However, two other ceiling lights are different. One has just black and white wire coming into the box to a single pole switch. The other is part of a three way switch in a separate area. Now, it works just fine in both locations, but in the single pole switch the light does not work at all. The switch is working, you can hear it and see the led working, but it just leaves the light off. In the three way switch area it works even better, except it has a steady flicker. Any tricks or secrets to getting either of these scenarios to work, or am I just wasting my time and should maybe shop for more compatible switches?? My PIR switches have a black, a red, a white and a green wire. And the switches do work for cfl lights.
Several possibilities. First use standard light bulbs until it is working. Some of the PIR have triac outputs which need a minimum amount of current to work. CFL and LED lights can be a problem with electronic switches/dimmers.
The PIR needs electricity to operate. The black and white wire are probably power and return, there is no neutral to connect to the PIR. Unless you can get a different PIR that does not need line power to operate you are out of luck. There may be some that can cycle steal power and would work but I am not familiar with them.
I assume the three way is a three way PIR and the lights that are flickering are electronic such as LED or CFL.
If you talk to one of the people where you bought the switch they may help you free of charge.
Good Luck
SOURCE: need to know wiring diagram for cooper single pole lighted switch
well lets see on one side you should have two brass screws that would be to interupt your lead to the fixture then you either have a brass and silver screws on the other side or you have black and white wires the black or brass is always hot the silver or white is neutral does that answer your question if not hit me back with a description of what your switch looks like
SOURCE: I have a live 2-wire line that used to be
As I understand it you have a live circuit going to a light fixture that had a switch built into it. You have removed the fixture and now you want to run this wire to another location and install a switch in the circuit.
You will be extinding these two wires (white and black + ground) to the new location. No problem ... Somewhere between where you start and where you finish, you will break the black wire and install a single pole switch. All connecctions must happen inside a electrical box.
So, install the new wire in the box where you will start your extension. Run to the new switch box. You dont even have to cut the white wire. You will wrap the green or ground around the ground screw on the switch, Cut the black wire . put one end under one side screw, put the other end under the other side screw. From this box run your wire to the next box where you will install your fixture.
If you are using metal boxes, they must be grounded to the circuit. You can use pig tails for this, Best deal is to use plastic boxes that dont require grounding.
I hope this answers your question
SOURCE: Three way switch does not work properly
Very interesting problem! But easy to fix. It's not a defective switch, just a minor wiring error, which would be very hard to solve via back and forth text. So, instead of trying to figure out exactly which wires and terminals to swap at the new switch, it would be much easier to simply swap the light and fan wires at the ceiling fixture, I hope this is helpful. Good luck, Al Kupchella
SOURCE: Replacing a pull chain 3-way ceiling fan light switch
OK .. the thick black and white are the power for the fan , are there also white wires on the lamp sockets ..??
The thick black wire should connect to the black wire on the switch.
The small black wires connect to the red and blue wire on the switch .. two small black wires each .. that should give you a position for 2 lights , and 4 lights, on the step switch .. but there should be white wires from the lamp sockets connected to the thick white from the fan .
please respond .
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SOURCE: I have a Cooper Triple Single Pole Switch. I want
The information is a bit sketchy, and you can add a comment with more information.
1) You have a triple switch with dark screw(s) on one side of device.
You know that Hot attaches to dark screw.
On opposite side of switch are 3 screws.
1 screw is for wire going to bath fan.
1 screw is for wire going to bath light.
1 screw is for wire going to separate light above mirror.
If you do not have a separate wire running to each Load, then you need to add a wire.
2) If I understand correctly, your wall box contains several cables
Each cable has a black and white wire.
Ground wires are twisted together and connected to green screw, and are not discussed.
3) Cable1 black and white are Hot and Neutral from breaker box.
Are you sure?
Test each wire in box to bare ground to find hot wire.
Test hot wire to each wire to find neutral wire.
If power comes from junction box on ceiling, wall box might not have neutral wire.
If neutral wire was used to complete circuits for previous switch, then it is used the same for new switch. That's where the information is sketchy.
You have 4 white wires
1 white goes to each load
1 white is neutral
Where are the black wires associated with these white wires?
Add a comment and say how many cables and where each wire was connected before.
Here's how to start.
Connect Hot to dark screw.
One at a time, connect each white to screw on other side of switch.
Turn on power and flip the switch.
If load turns ON, then that wire is correct.
If load does not turn ON, then leave switch ON. Test each of the other white wires to bare ground to see if this wire should connect to neutral. Then connect that wire to neutral and test switch again.
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