Have honda eg2200x generator no voltage, have sparked the outlet with 12v dc

Your trailer has two electrical systems, 12v and 120v. The 12v system has a battery and perhaps a converter/charger to power it. The 120v system must he hooked up to 'shore power.' Both systems have their own protection. The 12v system has a fuse panel, check for power at each fuse. 12v wall switches are often smaller and don't look like typical 120v switches like in a house.

The 120v system has a breaker box and circuit breakers. Reset each breaker by turning off then on again. In addition, the 120v outlets might have a GCFI outlet near a sink. It often is wired first in a breaker circuit, thus giving GCFI protection to other outlets in the circuit. Test the GCFI and make sure it clicks off and can be reset.

Ez test to determine if stator wiring is ok. This test works on generators that have two sets of 115v plugs and 220v plug. Use a 12v, 1amp ac power supply ( smaller ac power supply should work ok ). With generator not running, apply 12v to one of the 115v outlet plugs. Now verify 12v output voltage with meter at another 115v outlet on generator. Also verify that there is about twice the voltage at the 220 v outlet plug (should be about 20v - 24v) . If the adjoining 115 v outlet plug has no output or very little voltage or if the 220 volt plug has no output, most likely stator is damaged or breaker is off. If the stator is shorted voltage reading will be very low and power supply will heat up. If stator is open, there will be no voltage at second 115v plug or 220 v plug. If voltage is ok at the other outlet plugs as per test above then most likely problem is with voltage regulator, or brushes not making contact or armature winding open or just needs to be energized. Unplug the 12v power supply after test to prevent it from overheating. Most generators have two 115v windings that together power the 220v plug. When you energize one of the windings with the 12v power supply, the second 115v winding will be energized also and give you a voltage reading about equal to 12v. You will not damage the generator with this small voltage being input thru the plug. Good luck

Al generators are different and will output different amps depending on the power rating and the power being used in any plugged in device. A simple calculation is to divide the power rating of your generator by the voltage produced to give the amps. So if you have a 2000 watt generator giving 12v DC, you will be drawing 166.6 amps maximum. If your plugged in device is using, say 50 watts, like a bulb, it will be drawing 4.16 amps.

No I wouldnt feed current into the CDI.
you can check for voltage going in with a multi meter, could be AC

The older units has a 3 VDC glow coil the newer units have a 12VDC igniter.

Fromwhat your described above the next paragragh is your ignition system.

The igniter control voltages in the newer SPARK type igniters are (+) = 12VDC, (L)= high voltage lead (Spark plug voltage! I.e ruin your meter type voltage), (-)= Ground L is the lead that passes the HV spark from the control unit to the ignitor plate. The L lead should pass one heck of a hit if is workng correctly.
If not look at the HV lead to see if it is grounding out somewhere.

If the gas safety valve is not sensing gas pressure... you will not have 12VDC to the + terminal of the ignition moudule.

With the gas on and you have 12VDC at the ignition module + terminal then most likely the ignition module is bad.


Kelly

The EU3000 is a gel-pack (spill-proof) battery. Using a 10mm wrench or socket, remove the four (4) screws that hold the end cover on the machine.
Use a voltage meter and test the battery at rest (no load, not running). You should see 12 or higher volts DC. Record the voltage and then start the unit manually. Turn the ECO throttle "OFF" so the unit revs up to full RPM. You should see 14 or higher volts DC to verify that the charging system is OK.
The conclusion:
If the 12V test shows less than 10VDC, replace battery.
If the 14V test shows less than 12VDC, have a HONDA AUTHORIZED shop diagnose it for you.

Hope this helps.
Dolf-

trace your DC outlets backwards...they go to a certain (device)like object...test the wires goint to that device for voltage..if there was voltage then that device is burnt...you can take it to a parts selling shop and buy a new one.

The field is always dc, They loose their magnetism.

Here is a simple test. With engine off apply 12v ac 1 amp to 110v outlet plug on generator. This will energize the field windings and cause the armature to produce dc voltage at the brushes and produce a nice magnet if all is well. If dc voltage is present at comutater, remove 12v ac and start engine to check for output. enjoy

Here is a simple test to check field and other wiring. With engine off apply 12v ac 1 amp to 110v outlet plug on generator. This will energize the field windings and should cause the armature to produce dc voltage at the brushes and produce a nice magnet. If there is a short in the field or broken wire or shorted capacitor there will be no dc reading at the brushes. . This test is the opposite of what actually occurs when the engine is running. That is the armature produces a magnet fed thru the windings, regulator and brushes. If dc voltage is present at the burshes, remove 12v ac and start engine to check for output. enjoy