Wire fell off. would like to know how to rewire
SOURCE: Replacement dual burner Gaggenau CK594
A heating element is a ' load ' only and has nothing to do with 'line' a heating element consumes energy and a line supplies energy. The nomenclature for both is unambiguos. Line and load would indicate a switch or overcurrent device. We are referring to a heating element that is beyond the switch or overcurrent device. Applying a meter to the element with a good understanding of the fundamentals or having a clear diagram that indicates the function of the wires is the only safe way to proceed. Connecting indicator lights in series would never get through UL and your appliance would not have reached market. Obtain the information necessary as to the function of the conductors and connect them according to the manufacturers instructions to avoid violating the UL listing. See NEC 110.3(B) (NFPA 70): Listed and labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included. The equipment we are discussing is dangerous if not connected properly please be careful.
SOURCE: elecrical hook-up for cooktop
Based on your description...it appears the Viking unit may NOT comply with UL and the NEC....but implies that some local Codes may permit the suggested connection...and it may indeed be permitted - if the unit actually draws straight 240 and does not require a neutral for 120 volts (some cooktops do need the neutral for 120 volt control switches...such as your Jennair). Code now requires that new 120/240 units that require the neutral (your Viking unit states that it does not) be a 4 wire assmebly....and your unit MAY be an exception to this requirement.
Under those conditions...then it more then likely CAN be connected as you (and Viking) suggest - black to black, red to red,green to white...and insure that the junction box is indeed well grounded to the supply bare ground wire - so that the metal flex will serve as a supplemental ground to the cook-top.The only other consideration will then be - IS the exisiting wire size and breaker that used to supply the Jennair correct for the new unit..? And if so - then you should be all set with your suggested hook-up...but without electrical nameplate data for both units for comparison...I have no way to determine that....both companies make several different models with different power supply requirements.
If the electrical data is compatible between the two units...then you should be all set as suggested - without having to rewire the cooktop.
Hope this helps...please follow-up if you need more details or have new information for me concerning this cooktop.
SOURCE: wire for stove top burners
same place you got the switches,you can usually get the whole harness.
SOURCE: HOT SURFACE LIGHTS
Hold the button down 5-6 seconds and it will go off...then to cut on...press down again for 5-6 seconds and it will come back on.
SOURCE: I need instructions for wiring in replacing a dual burner switch
We followed the instructions that came with the switch that addressed a "compound wiring" configuration. We also used the black jumper wire as shown in the instructions.
We got to this solution in a trial by error manner though, because the three of us working the problem were convinced the stovetop was wired in a "piggyback configuration" and tried that road first. It would have been helpful if the instructions had included an explanation of the switch manufacturer's interpretation of "compound" and "piggyback" configuration.
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