Switch reluctance drive fault

It sounds like there may be a few potential issues that could be causing the resistance you are experiencing:

1. Incorrect installation of the slow speed gear or key - If the slow speed gear or key were installed incorrectly, this could cause increased resistance in certain gears. Double-check the installation of these components to ensure they are properly oriented and positioned.
2. Stuck gears - If the gears and key are stuck on the drive shaft, this could cause increased resistance. Try removing the gears and key again, and make sure they are clean and free of any debris before re-installing them.
3. Improper alignment of the gears - If the gears are not properly aligned, this could cause increased resistance. Check to make sure the gears are properly seated and aligned with each other.
4. Damage to the worm wheel - The freshly chewed up center of the worm wheel could be causing increased resistance. Consider replacing the worm wheel if it appears to be damaged.

Overall, it may be helpful to consult the Hobart service manual for your specific model to ensure all components are installed correctly and to troubleshoot any additional issues that may be causing the resistance.

Jimbo

I am not sure about the LED fault lights....but I have a few troubleshooting angles to provide a start:

Try checking the power supply at the output devices and compare with the good (Left) channel.

The distortion you are hearing may be due to
low voltage.

This is a stereo amp, so you have a good (Left) channel to compare with. Use a multimeter to compare resistances (no power applied) or voltages (power on) at the components working back from the outputs of each channel. When you find a difference you have located the faulty area.
If you can get an oscilloscope it can also be used to trace the path back from the output of each amp. Good Luck Be careful!

Baldor no longer manufactures that motor. Hobart would have to install a kit that includes every electrical component in the machine. Be careful if you find a used one, they have a very fragile encoder on the rear of the motor.

Check everything you have done for a mistake, the pin through the planetary, the pin through the fuse gear and the pin in the main shaft that drives the bevel gear. That's the gear that pinion gear on the fuse gear shaft mates with. After that you are left with a fuse gear fault. I am assuming that the motor is turning at normal speeds and not somehow binding up, no reason why it should as motor stays in one piece during gear changing procedure.

that fault is a b_gd.there are 10 things that can cause this.1.start sw.momentary contacts not closing. 2.stop sw. contacts open. 3.bowl guard sw. open or malfunction(b_gd)displayed on timer.4.contactor 1con malfunction.5.timerboard malfunction.6.wiring incorrect from sr drive to motor or 1con.7.sr drive malfunction 8.1 con monitor from control drive disconnected from contactor coil9.encoder malfunction 10.motor malfunction. hopefully just your bowl guard switch is no good. hope this helps, dont forget to vote, monomoy

How comfortable are you with electrical parts? With the mixer UNPLUGGED and the switch ON measure resistance between the (flat) plug pins. If it's infinite (no meter movement) which is to be expected, there is an open circuit. The switch could be open or the wire to the switch could be disconnected (improbable) or the motor could be burned out and open (not very probable).

Maybe you could take the switch to a shop and have it tested.

This is not really a solution, just step 1.

http://www.mendingshed.com/attachmentgear.html

if the mixer is pretty old then the timer is bad.If its a newer unit the timer or the bowl height sensor is bad.

I had a look on google and came up with a service manual. not sure if this has the wiring diagram but the only other thing i can suggest is to contact te manufacturer direct. Go to http://cgi.ebay.com/HOBART-A200-20-QUART-MIXER-SERVICE-PARTS-MANUAL_W0QQitemZ160203114233QQcmdZViewItem
hope this helps.

SInce there are no fasteners looks like the dial has lost its "grip" . Will come off if you force it . You can fix back replacement or the same one with some skilful application of araldite or a similar epoxy resin