Craftsman 16 inch cain saw sprocket wont turn

Could be a few things.

1. Clutch slipping at engine end.
2. Drive shafts have become detached from drive or broken.
3. Clutch behind the drive sprocket on the cutting head may need tightening.
4. Chain too sharp/aggressive and is trying to cut too much and the stopping the chain.
5. Chain too tight.

It could be the clutch. If the chain slows down and the engine does not the clutch is slipping and needs to be replaced.

Have you take the chain brake off..? This is a band which grips the clutch drum and must be disengaged before use.

Check chain tension, this shouldn't be too tight.

Did you also put chain oil in the oil tank.?

It sure does, the chain always turns in a clockwise direction as you look at the saw from the drive side, so the chain on the top of the bar should have the cutting edge facinf away from the saw.

Hi, make sure the chain is not on too tight, It should lift from the bar about a quarter inch. Also if there is a chain brake make sure that it is disengaged. If the chain stops but the saw is revving high then there may be a worn out clutch that needs to be replaced. Finally make sure the limb that you are cutting is not binding the chain under its' own weight.

This is somewhat subjective. Eveybody does it a little different.If you are cutting limbs from a tree, start an undercut about where you want the limb to fall free of the tree. Use the upper edge of the chain to cut it about a fourth of the way through. Then start from the top of the limb over where you made the undercut.

Remove the new chain and compare it against the old one. Do the new drive teeth match the 'pitch' of the old chain? If incorrect, the chain cannot be adjusted properly and will 'climb' over the sprocket due to the chain teeth not matching the teeth on the drive sprocket. Getting the proper chain is the answer in this case. Hope this helps!

1. The kickback brake, if equipped, was triggered to stop the chain.
2. The chain is jammed with saw dust/debris (it doesn't take much)
3. the bar sprocket is damaged.
4. The chain guide teeth are damaged and not sliding through the bar guide groove smoothly
5. The chain is adjusted too tightly.
6. You are out of bar oil and friction has stopped it/damaged the bar and/or chain
7. The motor sprocket clutch is damaged.

That should cover all of the basics to look over.

Here is a link to instructions for EL-8 series saws ... http://www.desatech.com/pdf/115499-01_EL8_Series_Chain_Saw_Tension_Adjustment.pdf. For series LNT-2, LNT-3,EL-1, and EL-7 according to the manufacturer... "WARNING: The cutting edges on the chain are sharp. Protective gloves should be used when touching the chain. Unplug the chain saw from the power supply. Allow chain to cool. Loosen the guide bar nuts until they are finger tight. Ensure the adjusting block is in the adjustment hole in the guide bar. Turn the chain tensioning screw clockwise to increase tension. Turn the chain tensioning screw counterclockwise to decrease tension. Check for proper chain adjustment by pulling down on the chain at the bottom center of the guide bar. You should see no more than a ⅛ inch gap between the chain cutting links and the guide bar. The guide (or drive) links should not come out of the guide bar grooves. The chain should rotate freely around the guide bar. If it does not, chain tension should be decreased. When the chain is properly adjusted, tighten the guide bar nuts securely." On the M series if your chain keeps slipping off your sprocket... The Sprocket cover tab (located on the round part of the sprocket cover) isn’t inserted into the saw body tab slot. I hope this helps you!

If your saw has a removable sprocket, Check the drive sprocket on the clutch drum. Either the the spline is worn or the drive link on the chain is not properly seated in the sprocket well.