Where does the wire go inside?

The hot water tap in the heater core inlet is not opening. The most common cause is a broken or loose connection between the operating cable and the tap, or, at the back of the control dial on the dash.

Locate this tap on the hot water hose going through the firewall, and have someone operate the control dial inside. You will be able to see if the cable moves and if the connection clamp is loose.

If there is no movement the cable is probably broken.

If that happens on all phones and you have copper wiring inside and out it usually is caused by a high resistance open (bad wire connection) either inside or outside the house.. If it happens on only one phone it is either ther phone itself (swap with another phone to prove it's the phone) or the wiring to the phone has a loose connection or is bad. If it happens one all phones test it where the telephone connection comes into the house. If it is still noisy the call the local TELCO. Wet lines can also cause the same problem so if you suspect there was any water leaks in the house disconnect the inside wiring from the telephone entrance connection before testing other if the problem is inside TELCO will charge. If you using a wireless phone use a wired phone to do the testing.

On vacuum operated systems: The dial temp switch or vacuum motor is defective. You may have a vacuum leak or loose vacuum hose connection.
On electrically operated systems: The dial temp switch, electric door position motor, blend door position sensor, photo diode sunload sensor or the ATC control module is defective. Check for loose wires at connection points on the motor.

try locating the physical tap that connects your heater hoses to the interior of the car. note what position that tap is in before and after you turn up the temp dial inside. whatever connects the dial to the tap may be damaged.

if the tap itself turns then the heater side of the blower may be blocked.

I think you have 120Volt pool pump.
Add a comment if this is incorrect since wiring information is based on this assumption.

(1) Wiring problem:
Evidence shows timer is wired in reverse (dial only rotates when pump is ON, and dial stops rotating when pool pump is OFF)
Electrician reversed the wires, but wires need to be tested.
Hot wire from circuit breaker always connects to L
Neutral wire from breaker box connects to unmarked terminal.
This will give clock motor continuous power.
Next:
Black wire going to Load (pump) connects to X
White wire going to Load connects to unmarked terminal along with Neutral wire.

Tork 1103 is SPDT timer with 3 watt 120volt clock motor that can control multiple loads and voltages, and can be wired many different ways.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/1103INSTALLOP.pdf

(2) Loose dial. The dial should only rotate counterclockwise when moved with hand. The fact that trippers work when rotated by hand says dial is probably not problem. If timer is used, and trippers skip over and do not turn on Load (pump) then order P47 replacement trippers.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Tork-1102-3-500.jpg

Nothing Yellow Black
Green White Black
Orange Red


The black wires are both ground connected into the same part in the board. Just connect them depending on length.

This is the picture of the vol knob, with the dial upward looking down on the tabs. The top wires, yellow and black, are for the volume. The Middle row, green, white and black are for the squelch. the orange and the red are the power switch.

If I understand correctly, your stove plugs into the wall.
Your stove plug looks similar to one shown



Review wires inside wall.
There are 2 hot wires which are red and black
There is 1 neutral wire which is white
And there is a bare ground wire

Connect wires so they match image above.
2 hot wires, black and red go across from each other
White neutral connects to flat prong on top
Bare ground connects to round prong on bottom
Older wiring might not have both white and ground ... if you do not have both, then connect the wire you have to the flat prong on top

Switch has 2 wire > one of these wires is Hot and it connects to Timer black wire > the other wire goes to Load and connects to Timer red wire.

If you get these two wires reversed, timer will not run, so switch them. You know timer is running when dial on front of timer rotates with passing time. You can test for Hot wire by taking out switch, separate wires, turn on power, test each wire to bare ground, tester lights up with Hot wire.

Timer white wire goes Neutral. This wire is necessary to run clock inside timer. Locate Neutral wire inside box >> it is usually two or more white wires twisted together and pushed to back of box. If you do not have a Neutral wire, connect Timer white wire to bare ground wire ... until you can hire electrician to run additional wire to box.

It sounds like you are replacing a two speed motor with a single speed. Check the side of the old motor and see if it has high and low speed wiring schematics. If so you need to replace with same model number. Good luck!

You can be assured that the element is 240 volt. The fan motor is also rated at 240 volt. the wires you have black - black are the connections you make to the line. Use a 12/2 with ground. Use a double pole 20 breaker in your panelbox. The green wire is the equipment ground - connect this to the bare wire from the 12/2. On the 12/2 cable - there will be two colors, one black and one white. Wrap a couple of turns of black tape on the white wire both at the heater location and on the white in the panelbox. connect the 12/2 to your 2 pole breaker, the black wire and the taped white to the breaker.