Replacing the Main Tub Bearing, Model LWG65AW

I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't have to remove the engine/transmission, split the trans from the engine, remove the TC or clutch/pressure plate, (you should have drained engine oil and auto trans oil before doing this), remove the oil pan, remove the rear most main bearing cap, rotate a new seal into place, replace rear main bearing cap, torque, etc. and reassemble.

Worst case you may have to remove harmonic balancer and front timing chain cover, front seal, release all the connecting rod caps and main bearing caps, remove the crankshaft, replace the rear main seal and reassemble. It's a 1966 engine...you should consider replacing the front timing chain with a roller chain as well as rod and main bearing inserts if you have to do all this.

hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle
The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.

take a piece of 2x4 lumber and after soaking tub bearing that the tub is mounted on have someone hold the tub/motor combination up off the ground and take the 2x4 and hit the top agitator shaft so as to drive it off the tub,you have to hit them HARD sooner or later it will fall off the shaft its just rust holding it on

Hello,
To remove the trunion totally reattach the inner tub to it and twist the inner tub,with the tub attached it gives you much more leverage to twist and pull the trunion off. After its off pull the small brass ring with the O seal in it up the transmission shaft and pop the tub seal off. To replace tub bearing remove the bolts on the side of the side of the outer tub off from the tub support and pull tub off of trans. shaft. to remove bearing flip tub upside down and remove the 2 screws from the tabs on bearing and turn tub back right side up and use a screwdriver on the top of bearing and knock it out of outer tub,push new bearing in by hand most of the way,being sure the tabs on bearing is lined up w/notches on tub and use old bearing placed on top of new one and drive it down all the way,reinstall screws into tabs. All the surface rust should be sanded off of trans shaft. Re install outer tub and secure with the bolts into tub support. push main tub seal into flange with normal palm pressure,install new brass ring and MAKE SURE O RING DOESNT POP OUT OF IT ( a little dawn,palmolive joy liquid dishwashing soap around inner part of o ring inside of brass ring will help it slip on easily) I use the old brass ring and press it over new brass ring to assist in o ring not popping out,once new brass ring is inserted ok and oring in place remove and discard old brass ring. Reistall trunion and inner tub ECT ECT ECT

Gene

Two bearings in that model One in tub will be leaking water if bad. One on the lower end of transmission.which is part of the transmission. Whole tub basket unit must be removed from the case to replace either the tub bearing and seal or the transmission.

sounds like the seal at the base of the tub is allowing oil to leak from the bearing (that is allowing the tub to spin on the motor shaft.
Not much to do unless you are good with tools and can remove the tub and replace the seal. (This is sorta like the seal between the transmission and engine on a car, or around the main motor bearing)

If is the nut that's on the bottom of the tube, use a piece of hardwood a hammer to slowly remove it, but counterclockwise.

No boot on a top loader, the tub seal and bearing are gone, water leaked from the tub seal, rusted the bearing and quite possibly the milk stool and transmission. Check your warranty, the transmission may have a 5 year limited warranty, usually it will include the tub seal and bearing with the kit.

most likely the main spin bearing at the top of the transmission just below the spin basket and seal

the bearings dontjust go out for nothing either,you will need to be replacing the tub kit seal also

not the easiest of repairs,may need special tools to remove the seal nut assembly...

you need a special spanner wrench to remove the bearing/seal. you could try ordering from your parts dealer. my advice is to replace the machine, because you'll end up calling a tech and it'll cost you the price of a new machine