Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Feb 04, 2014

The chain keeps coming off the bar when cutting

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on May 22, 2009

SOURCE: saw cuts then stops chain still goes around bar then seems to catch agian then cuts

sounds like the clutch is starting to go out. i have one just like it and the same thing happened to me

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Anonymous

  • 2220 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 31, 2009

SOURCE: Can not keep chain on bar. Tried 2 different

The inside part of the chain are called drive links. I think when the chains came off the first time (loose chain?) some of these links were slightly deformed (burred). Take a flat file to the burrs on the sides of the drive links. Once repaired keep your chain properly tensioned.

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Chain adjustment

  1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
  2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They don't need these really loose - finger tight will do.
  3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
  4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
  5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
  6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH
Lou
If no burrs please repost. This has piqued my interest. I think a brand new chain will operate correctly.

Anonymous

  • 2220 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 31, 2009

SOURCE: Can not keep chain on bar. Tried 2 different

The inside part of the chain are called drive links. I think when the chains came off the first time (loose chain?) some of these links were slightly deformed (burred). Take a flat file to the burrs on the sides of the drive links. Once repaired keep your chain properly tensioned. Your saw is fitted with a chain catcher (page 9 of your manual), it did its job and kept the chain from smacking your leg (were you wearing chaps?). Burrs are often created when this happens.

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Chain adjustment

  1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
  2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They don't need these really loose - finger tight will do.
  3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
  4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
  5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
  6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system.
You can download your "Operator's Manual" and an "IPL" (exploded parts list) here:
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – for use with IPL
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week

Lou
If no burrs please repost. This has piqued my interest. I think a brand new chain will operate correctly.

Anonymous

  • 2220 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 29, 2010

SOURCE: Hot bar loose chain

Hello Sam;
Sounds like your oiler is not operating, try this please:
Oil System Plugged:

  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL). Post back (below) with a model and serial number if no ooze and I will provide an IPL.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou

Anonymous

  • 4088 Answers
  • Posted on May 18, 2010

SOURCE: Hot bar loose chain

Remove the bar and chain from the engine. Clean the side of the engine where the bar fits, start the engine and run fast for several moments. Oil should ooze out of a port and run down the engine side. If nothing, then the oil lines, valves, tank filter, and the oil pump (behind the clutch assembly) should be checked for plugging, breakage, or other problems. If oil comes out, then clean the oil holes in the bar drive end including the two small holes that lead from the larger holes out to the chain groove on each side. Clean the entire chain groove. Oil and check the end sprocket for smooth, relatively free turning. Compressed air is very useful for cleaning these parts. Reassemble bar and chain making sure the adjustment tang drops into one of the large holes--you may have to back off the adjustment several turns to make this work. Make sure the chain cuts toward you on the bottom run and install the clamp nuts/bolts finger tight. Adjust the chain until it pulls up to the bar and you can turn the chain by hand. Run a line of oil around the chain to pre-lube it. Tighten the clamp nuts and retest the tension again. If ok, start the engine and run for several minutes, then place the tip near some cardboard and run at speed for several moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Make sure the chain is fully sharpened then try a few cuts. It should cut smoothly without any undue pressure from you. Hope this helps!

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

2 of my electric makita chainsaws have dime tip carving bars. chains keep coming extremely loose after only a few cuts. I spent as much time tightening the chains as carving.

chains that come loose that fast , and is not a cause of a weak bar bolt slipping , for sure is caused by improper oiling of chain and its overheating , heat makes metal expand so chain goes slack if it gets hot
0helpful
1answer

Sears 18 42cc chain saw blade keeps coming lose

I have found that the number one reason for a loose chain is from stretching, and that comes from heat or clearing small brush.

Heat being that it is not oiling properly and wears quicker, and the small brush answer (cutting lots of 1/2 in Buckthorn) tends to jerk the chain and manually stretches rather than a steady cut in a log which tends to be smoother.



With that said, yours might be something else. If I can ask a few question... When the saw was purchased, did you install the bar and chain? Second your level of experience - and is this your first saw. What I need to rule out is that the bar could be on wrong.



This saw was more than likely built by Poulan and it should have 2 nuts holding the bar. Does the bar loosen up? If the answer is no you might have a bar that is miss matched to the chain. What that means is that the chains "drivers", the tooth that is down in the bar could be a .050 and the bar could be a .063, hence the chain wobbles more that it should and might be more prone to jumping off.

Solution: Replace bar and chain and make sure they are a matched, lastly, always cut with a sharp chain.

Good luck,

kj
2helpful
1answer

Chain keeps coming off bar

The chain only comes off the bar if, the chain has become lose and de railed, or if the timber you are cutting is very springy and you are trapping it in the cut, our twisting it in the cut, if the saw is not oiling the chain correctly it will stretch and if not addressed will come off, once it has come off the drive links are usually damaged, you should realy start again with a new chain, when running close to a clean peice of wood you should a steady stream of chain oil coming from the end of the guide bar.
2helpful
1answer

Chain has come off the holder

Remove the bar and chain from the engine. Lay the chain out on a flat surface in a circle and look for defects on either side of the chain. The chain should not be bent sideways at any point. If everything looks ok, start the engine to observe oil oozing from a small port in the engine side where the bar fits to. When fitting the bar/chain back to the saw, adjust the chain just up to the bottom edge of the bar, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Check the chain oiling by running the bar tip near some cardboard at speed for a moment or two--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Keep the chain teeth fully sharpened so that you have maximum cutting with minimal heat. If the chain tends to droop from the bar during use, it is likely getting hot. Don't force the cut, let the chain cut it's way through. The emitted sawdust should be chips and curls--a fine powder-like dust indicates dull chain teeth. Hope this helps!
0helpful
1answer

I have a UT10519 and the chain keeps coming off bar. I noticed the inner guide is cut.

If the chain is showing signs of heavy wear, suggest replacing both the bar and the chain. Check the sprocket on the clutch hub for heavy wear on the teeth which will hasten wear on the chain teeth. Check chain oiling by running the saw tip near some cardboard at speed for a moment or two--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Tighten the chain until the lower run of chain just comes up to the bar, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Hope this helps!
0helpful
1answer

Chain adjustment seems too have some type of problem; it keeps leting the chain come loose or off. ever couple of cuts

The chain adjuster does not actually hold the guide bar, that is done by the bar nut/nuts, the main reason for chains coming lose is inadiquate chain oil to the bar/chain, does the chain look dry? it can also be the result of what you are cutting, if it is very dirty timber or railway sleepers.
0helpful
1answer

My chainsaw throws the chain off every couple of cuts wont stay on

Release the chain brake, then remove the bar and chain. Lay the chain out on a flat surface and look for damaged links, or sideways bending of the chain. Replace the chain if you find any such damage. Clean the engine surface where the bar fits to, then start the engine--oil should ooze out of the small port there. If ok, then clean the small oil passages that run from the large holes out to the chain groove on each edge of the bar. Re-assemble the bar and new chain (if required)--tighten the chain adjuster until the chain just comes up to the lower bar, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Tighten the bar mounting hardware and recheck the chain tension again. The chain teeth must be properly sharpened at a consistent angle to assure rapid cutting which keeps the chain heat down. With a new chain, recheck the tension every so often as the chain will initially stretch when used. Test the chain oiling by running the bar tip near some cardboard at speed for a moment or so--it should throw off a thin line of oil. There should be an oil-volume adjustment screw on the engine to achieve this. Check the sawdust coming from the cut--it should be small chips and curls if the teeth are sharp, but it will be a fine dust if they become dull. Hope this helps!
0helpful
2answers

Chain keeps coming off and when is on wont cut

If you are having difficulty fitting the drive links into the bar groove, the chain binds or rides up when rotated there may be burrs on the drive links. These often form if the chain comes off while at speed. use a file on the drive link flats to remove them.
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Chain Adjustment
  1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
  2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They do not need these really loose - finger tight will do.
  3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
  4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
  5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
  6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH
Lou
Nov 25, 2009 • Garden
0helpful
1answer

Chain keeps coming off

Normally, a loose chain will enhance it's ability to jump off when trimming small branches.
When installing and/or adjusting a chain;
1) install the chain, bar, and cover, and install the cover nut loosely
2) support the 'nose' end of the bar with a block
3) tighten the chain until it touches the bottom of the bar,
and then tighen the adjuster 1/8 of a turn more.
*this will make the chain just a LITTLE snug
4) tighten the cover nut, and then by hand CAREFULLY rotate the chain.
If you cannot rotate by hand, it is too tight. re-adjsut
** This proceedure must be used on ANY brand chain saw.
Here is why.
If the bar nose is not lifted upon adjustment, when cutting,
the nose will move upward, the chain will have a 'droop' away
from the bar and appear to have loosened while cutting.
Any contact with a small branch will flip the chain off of the bar.
If you re-adjust it improperly, the same senerio will occur the next cut.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

0helpful
2answers
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