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Yes. There could be big issues depending on how you want to "hook" them together. If you are wanting to simply run them at the same time (play through both at once) you can get a cheap signal splitter from GC or Radioshack and run your bass to the input, then output 1 and 2 to the respective amps. That is your best bet.
Setting up two amps parrallel does not nessesarily add power. That is to say that your 150 and your 350 "hooked" together does not give you 500 watts. In addition, there may be some issues with running a powered signal from the first amp into an input that is not designed for powered signals. Try the splitter or an old fashioned AB box. Safe and a cool trick. You can also use a stereo chorus pedal and let the signal chorus between amps. Makes the bass sound huge! Try it and good luck.
That amplifier is only rated at 150 watts at 4 ohms, or 300 watts at 2 ohms. Not a very strong amp to run 2 kicker comps. My guess is you have the subs wired wrong for your application. There are 2 types of subs, one is a dual 4 ohm, and one is a dual 2 ohm. Most people bridge these coils together and that cuts your ohms in half. For example. Lets say you have the 10cvr104 subs. Thats the dual 4 ohm sub. You wire the coils together in parallel, now its a 2 ohm sub. You have 2 of these subs running off of your amp, if they are hooked up in parallel, now you have a 1 ohm load, out of the amplifiers normal operation. Your amplifiers internals heat up really quick and there is a thermal overload, putting your amplifier into circuit protection mode. My suggestion for wiring your subs is as follows: for each speaker, wire the coils together like this- positive coil1 to negative coil 2 and negative coil 1 to positive coil 2. That is called running in series, and doubles your ohm load. Next, we need to wire the speakers together properly to hook up to your amplifier. For this, since the coils are hooked together, you only need to use one set of terminals from each sub. And take the positive from sub 1 and hook it to positive of amp. Take negative sub 1 and hook it to positive of sub 2. Take negative of sub 2 and hook it to negative of amp.
There are 3 adjusters... One between 1+2 adjusts these 2 together... One between 3+4 adjusts these 2 together... One between 2+3 balances left and right pairs...
The easiest way to explain it would be for you to go to the following link. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=2&woofer_imp=3
On one side of both woofers positive (+) and negative (-) are connected together. Then you will need to hook the remaining + terminals together and go to the + of the amp. Then you do the same with the - terminals. Hope this helps, please let me know if you have any questions on it.
It depends on how long you plan on running your amp when you listen to your music. If you like it loud for a long time, I would kep our speaker load at 2 ohms to keep your amp cooler. If its for car audio competitions where it wont play for so long, ! ohm would give you higher output but heat up your amp faster. Are the subs 2 ohms at each voice coil or 4 ohms? Bridge your voice coils together in parallel then bridge the 2 speakers together in series. That should work fine for you.
you cannot bridge them together. if they are bridgeable, you can bridge one amp to one speaker and the other amp to the other speaker. make sure not to go lower than the required ohm for each amp. also, you probably will get a different output wattage for each amp.
For each sub, tie the DVCs in parallel ("+"s together, then "-"s together). This will make the subs look like 2 ohms to the amp. Then, put one sub on each channel of the amp. That will put about 280W rms onto each sub, the max for the amp.
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