Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling. Ice buildup on coils and refrigerator temperature panel blinks every 10-20 seconds
Hello Experts,
Thank you for taking the time to help me with my problem. My Whirlpool Gold side by side # GC5SHEXNS00 refrigerator is not cooling properly. The fresh food side is not cooling and the bottom freezer section was colder than the top. There was ice build up on the coils in the freezer section, the fan on top of the coils was running, and the temperature control panel blinked every 10 seconds with a chirping sound. The electronic damper door from the freezer to the refrigerator closes shut if I manually open it thus not allowing any cold air into the fresh food side. A repairman was out and said I needed a new control board located at the bottom rear of the refrigerator and that I could order one and replace it myself. I have since melted the ice on the coils and replaced the main controller board but the damper door, panel blinking, and high temps in the fresh food side is still there. Can the temperature control panel be bad (blinking)?
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There are a few possible reasons why your Whirlpool GS6NHAXVK refrigerator's freezer is not freezing, but just cooling. Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:
Check the temperature settings: Ensure that the temperature settings are set to the appropriate level. The recommended temperature for the freezer is between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15 degrees Celsius).
Check the freezer fan: The freezer fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer. If it's not working, then the air won't circulate properly, and your freezer won't freeze. You can check if the fan is working by opening the freezer door and listening for the fan sound. If it's not working, you may need to replace it.
Check the defrost system: If the defrost system isn't working correctly, then ice can build up on the evaporator coils, blocking the flow of cold air. You can check the defrost system by removing the back panel inside the freezer and looking for any ice buildup. If there is a lot of ice buildup, you may need to replace the defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater.
Check the condenser fan: The condenser fan is responsible for drawing air across the condenser coils to remove heat from the refrigerator. If it's not working correctly, the refrigerator will not be able to remove heat, and the freezer will not be able to freeze. You can check the condenser fan by removing the back panel and looking for any obstructions. If the fan is not running, you may need to replace it.
Check the compressor: The compressor is responsible for compressing the refrigerant, which cools the air in the refrigerator. If it's not working correctly, then the refrigerator won't be able to cool properly. You can check the compressor by listening for a humming sound coming from the back of the refrigerator. If you don't hear anything, or if the sound is abnormal, you may need to replace the compressor.
If none of these troubleshooting steps work, it's best to call a professional appliance repair technician to diagnose and fix the issue.
I don't know about Whirlpool refrigerator freezers, but my Amana has a temperature control in the freezer that regulates the overall cooling, and then the control in the refrigerator compartment controls how much of the total cooling is sent to the refrigerator section. My advice would be to lower the temperature setting of the freezer, and see if the temperature lowers in the refrigerator as well. Also, you can go to the Whirlpool website and they can help you further.
This is intended as a guide to defrosting a refrigerator that has the freezer on the top. Side by sides and bottom freezers may be similar but will require some different procedures to remove covers to get at the defrost coils.
If your refrigerator is not cooling but your freezer is still working then you most likely have a problem with Ice buildup. Sometimes the ice will start to form inside the refrigerator on the bottom of the freezer compartment, even though the refrigerator section is not staying cool.
1. Empty out the freezer section so that you can remove the bottom panel that covers the evaporator coils. Side by side refrigerators often have the access panel in the back of the freezer. 2. Use a hair dryer or fan to speed up the melting of the ice. Towels will be needed to soak up the water. A wet/dry shop vac and a hair dryer work the best. Melt with one and collect the water with the other. 3. Take the couple of screws that hold the defrost coil loose and remove the heater. With an Ohm meter check the resistance of the coil. If the coil is bad you will get either and open or shorted circuit. If you get a good consistent resistance then it is okay. 4. If your heater coil is good and the fan/blower is working then you probably need to replace the defrost timer or advanced defrost control board, whichever is in your unit.
Replace all pieces and wires to their original positions and then restart the refrigerator. It may take a bit for everything to cool back down, especially in warm weather. Now with everything working properly you should be trouble free again.
Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Try cleaning under the front and rear also make sure the fan in back runs when the compressor runs.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..
If your fridge won't work, first check the power cord, and the reset the circuit breaker. Check for thermostat problems. It could be off or won't cool properly (too warm, too cold). If it can't be fixed with a simple adjustment, call a professional. Check for coil problems. The compressor can overheat due to dust buildup on condenser coils. If so, vacuum the coils. If there's ice buildup on evaporator coils due to bad defrost heater, call a professional. If there's a squealing sound inside the refrigerator, it's like a failing evaporator-coil fan. If so, call a professional. If there's frost buildup in the freezer, this is due to a bad defrost heater, in which case you should call a professional. Realign the water tube if it's out of position. It could cause problems with the ice maker. Replace any worn-out gaskets.
Also check the bellow link to troubleshoot your problem to your refrigerator:-
The non cooling is brought by the Expanded and Rapidly cooling air which keeps it cool is being blocked by the ice, and simultaneously being condensed by the temperature difference... The ice blocks its path and forms frost...but there is obviously air coming in contact with it...The problem is typically air is leaking in the fridge somewhere, make sure doors shut tight after cleaning the frost in the back panel...this should do it...:)
you can try replacing the overload relay mounted onthe side of the compressor ( kit number 4387835) sounds like its gone bad, trying to start yor compressor, but tripping off on overload.
In most cases it is the Defrost timer circuit. One of three things the Defrost time (most likely) it allows the cooling for a 6 to 10 hour period and the defrosting for 10 to 30 minutes to remove ice buildup, ICE BUILDUP is the main problem as it restrict air flow, the cooling air circulation through the system. You see cool air only comes in the freezer side and passes through vents (pass ways) to the refrigerator side. Ice buildup in the freezer side inhibits cooling air to the refrigerator side. You think the freezer is working, but it is only cooler because there is ice in there that you can't see. The Terminator (a LIMIT switch) opens the defrost circuit if the defrost heater gets too hot (second likely) the next is the Heater which heats for those 10 to 30 minutes to melt the ice buildup (least likely) no matter the Unit you have they all have this circuit... Hope this helps, I'm Tango
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