Clunks when I use it

2400 a 2500? seems so.
find a real ASE shop, and win.
yes clunks never just go away, they get worse as the wear accelerates..(like slugging wall hard each day hurts more )
due to velocity is faster for more wear (traveled, and goes worse FASTer) aka as doomed, wise is not going to far like this.

REAR: 101:" I use an electronic stethoscope to find mine.
rear clunks,. I've had them all in 60 years driving! you name it.bing.
no miles on truck told mine was 2004 1500(5speed m/t)
I used to restore 4wd cars as 2nd job. (for years) I am a gear head.
I had 4 bay shop on my property. upto 2009

• bad U-joints !
• bad brakes rear.
• bad emg, brakes top hats bat, gee.
• bad axle bearing , I just fixed, 5 years ago.

the microphone (my tool) clamped to axle 3 places, 4 channels mic.
left rear , center and right rear
the right is 10x louder.
so I , remove the whole real brake assembly. and bingo bad brakes seen. or in 2nd case all that is good but if I man handle the axle end with my trusty lever (crow bar) I SEE ILLEGALL play in the AXLE bearing it 3 planes, in and out and up and down and forward read.
I also man handle THe Ujoint, no play at all allowed L/R/Top down
or other suspension parts bad in rear
a real ASE shop levels all that in and find excessive play or even makes the noise doing so.
I can drive or buddy does and my head phones on and 4 channel knob, and can hear the noise. them move mics to hone in to loudest spot. this method avoids injury. finding any noise on a moving car
did you do the safe jump on bumber test, left and right rear.
trucks are easy.
real bumper pickup truck 2500 I guess.
jump it hard even 2 mean or one fat LOL. hard
CLUNK>?or push hard hands on one side of rear fleet side. rear. end. and see if transverse bar CLUNKS.
or take car to a body shop that does body and suspension work
and watch the magic tests. the first. lots or what is called man handing and levering and visual inspections first. and brakes too. rear.
and the drive shaft (aka prop shaft)
there are even youtube showing how to lever parts even with a 2by4
to find parts bad, easy. in suspension or the drive shaft.
on stands or lifts./

NOISE is complex topic and noise can be telegraphed.
fooling even the best techs. anyone..

ball joints on steering need replacing is my guess

Get into your silverback and go through the front gate that goes into the area where to fight the Leviathan. Then go to the right and turn around the right wall go straight and back into that corner in the back left. At this point just shoot the Leviathan in it's right eye. Use the vulcan and shoot in the right eye until it pops. Tap a to bring down your shield and use your rockets to shoot him in the mouth. After he leaves for the first time get out of your silverback because you're not very mobile and if you try to kill something close to you you might blow yourself up. Go to the very right side of the field by the crate and in front of the fire in the corner to kill the polyps they should be focused on Dominic instead of you. As soon as the Leviathan comes back run back to your silverback. Then go back to the spot you were at and start using your vulcan to shoot his left eye until it pops. When it does start shooting rockets into the Leviathan's mouth. Once the Leviathan goes down again move the silverback back into the corner where you first shot it's right eye until it popped. Next get back to the spot on the very right behind the crate and in front of the fire in the corner and start shooting polyps, they should be focused on Dominic. When the Leviathan comes back get your Silverback out of the corner and run back to the spot on the very right of the behind the crate and in front of the fire in the corner and start spamming rockets at its mouth. After this the Leviathan should go down for the final time.

hey Mike, I just got 2 brand new minspot rgbws and they worked for 3 days and now tonight the same thing!

they power up and goto a white light and dont move. no display on led panel either...

did you find a fix?

It sounds like the shocks for the drum are broken. The shocks absorb the wobbling of the drum due to unbalanced loads, etc. Remove the lower front panel (with machine unplugged) and look towards the back on each side and see if you see broken or hanging shocks. The panel has 2 screws I think and should come right off.
Also, if you can open the door and lifting up on the drum inside the machine and moving it around and hear a clunking sound, the drum bearings may be bad. Give that a try and see what you find.

This sounds like two seperate issues to me.
You need a output shaft seal on the transmission and both lower control arm bushings replaced.
Both are very common.

Could be the ball joint. They are really easy to change it thats your issue. Jack the car and remove the tire. The ball joint will usually have three bolts or nuts holding it on strut. There is one tapered shaft that goes through your wheel hub assy and is held on by a castlated nut. Pull the hub back and forth and watch the ball joint. If it has movement then you need to replace it. If this helps let me know. Also if you need more info get back with me. thanks

The belt can be replaced as follows.
1 remove top and front of dryer shell
2 belt goes around drum around motor pully then under tentioner wheel
3 replace front and top of dryer
(top pops off use a slotted screw driver)
Thanx for using Fixya Please take your time to rate me

Here are some things to check:
1. Have you checked that there aren't any threads caught underneath where the bobbin goes?
2. Are you puting the bobbin in correctly? (Sorry, I don't know if this machine is new to you or not!)
3. Also, do you oil the machine regularly?

NOTE: If this helps you at all, PLEASE give me a good rating!! Thanks!

the machine is opened and inspected from the front
opening from the front there is no heavy lifting or moving of the dryer needed,
the usual causes of a ' cyclic clunk '
a worn spot on a drum felt. when that area reaches the bottom, the weight of the
drum causes a clunk.
a damaged belt that clunks when the tear hits the drum
a collapsing drum roller(replace in pairs)
each is easy to fix, cheap,