Sealed cell batteries

http://www.atbatt.com carries a large array of sealed lead acid batteries. I did a search for 12V 2.8ah and here is one of the results:

http://www.atbatt.com/sealed-lead-acid-batteries/b/interstate/m/interstate-12v-2-8ah.asp

Hi,
Sunpak uses different power sources on their high-power handle mount (a.k.a. hammerhead) flash guns. The most common is the battery basket that holds 4 or 6 AA or C batteries depending on the type of the unit. One can insert Nickel-Cadmium or Nickel-Metal-Hydride rechargeable batteries instead of the primary cells, this way reducing the "consumables" costs at the expense of the smaller number of flashes per battery set. (Actually, NiCd or NiMH cells would probably give smaller number of flashes compared with the alkaline cells, but the recycle time between the flashes can be shorter. The reason is that at charging the flash capacitor inside the flash current counts more than voltage. Sunpak sells Ni-Cd battery packs named CL-2 for their flashes that utilize 6 AA-cells, and CL-3 for their 622 series (4 C-cells). The charger for these is the QBC-5. It recharges the exhausted batteries in 3 hours. As a solution assuring the shortest duration between flashes Sunpak offered the Powerpak, a shoulder holster that held a dry (non-rechargeable) battery of 510V, it charged the flash capacitor directly, omitting the transistor inverter in the flash body. As such battery became obsolete, the Poverpak has been superseded with the NC510 and later the TR-II PAK, which utilizes 10 Ni-Cd rechargeable batteries as a power source, and a powerful (more capable than the one in the flash) transistor inverter. NC510 and TR-II PAK use the same connection to the flash and the same outlook as the original Powerpak but, being rechargeable, are more economical. QBC-5 also serves a charger for the NC510 and TR-II PAK. You may ask, how the same charger can be used for 4, 6 and 10 cell NiCd packs. Well, the charger is specially designed for that, although charging time differs at the different battery packs. The NC510 and the TR-II PAK needs 10 hours to be recharged, when exhausted. The best way to avoid damages (overcharging degrades NiCd and NiMH cells) is to check temperature of the batteries. Charging must be cut off if the battery becomes hotter than 45 ?C (115 ?F). If after 10 hours of charge the NC510 does not power (the otherwise working) flash, then it must be serviced. Replacing the batteries is an easy job that can be done at home, with some soldering skills; NiMH cells with solder tabs are available at many web-based supplyers. Don't solder the cells directly, heat damages them. Avoid touching parts inside, when the pack is turned on: electrocuting is fully possible. Better find a professional, if you are not familiar with the electronics.

Sunpak uses different power sources on their high-power handle mount (a.k.a. hammerhead) flash guns. The most common is the battery basket that holds 4 or 6 AA or C batteries depending on the type of the unit. One can insert Nickel-Cadmium or Nickel-Metal-Hydride rechargeable batteries instead of the primary cells, this way reducing the "consumables" costs at the expense of the smaller number of flashes per battery set. (Actually, NiCd or NiMH cells would probably give smaller number of flashes compared with the alkaline cells, but the recycle time between the flashes can be shorter. The reason is that at charging the flash capacitor inside the flash current counts more than voltage. Sunpak sells Ni-Cd battery packs named CL-2 for their flashes that utilize 6 AA-cells, and CL-3 for their 622 series (4 C-cells). The charger for these is the QBC-5. It recharges the exhausted batteries in 3 hours. As a solution assuring the shortest duration between flashes Sunpak offered the Powerpak, a shoulder holster that held a dry (non-rechargeable) battery of 510V, it charged the flash capacitor directly, omitting the transistor inverter in the flash body. As such battery became obsolete, the Poverpak has been superseded with the NC510 and later the TR-II PAK, which utilizes 10 Ni-Cd rechargeable batteries as a power source, and a powerful (more capable than the one in the flash) transistor inverter. NC510 and TR-II PAK use the same connection to the flash and the same outlook as the original Powerpak but, being rechargeable, are more economical. QBC-5 also serves a charger for the NC510 and TR-II PAK. You may ask, how the same charger can be used for 4, 6 and 10 cell NiCd packs. Well, the charger is specially designed for that, although charging time differs at the different battery packs. The NC510 and the TR-II PAK needs 10 hours to be recharged, when exhausted. The best way to avoid damages (overcharging degrades NiCd and NiMH cells) is to check temperature of the batteries. Charging must be cut off if the battery becomes hotter than 45 ?C (115 ?F). If after 10 hours of charge the NC510 does not power (the otherwise working) flash, then it must be serviced. Replacing the batteries is an easy job that can be done at home, with some soldering skills; NiMH cells with solder tabs are available at many web-based supplyers. Don't solder the cells directly, heat damages them. Avoid touching parts inside, when the pack is turned on: electrocuting is fully possible. Better find a professional, if you are not familiar with the electronics.

Without knowing the make and model of your flashlight, it's difficult to know whether you have a product with a replaceable battery. Providing that information would be very helpful.

In addition, you can try taking your light to a specialty batteries store--around here, there's a chain called "Batteries Plus." They have a large number of cross-reference books that identify all kinds of replacement batteries, and they may be able to help you directly in extracting your existing battery pack--or in telling you that it has been permanently sealed into your flashlight. Many spotlight-style rechargeable flashlights have replaceable batteries; conversely, smaller handheld rechargeable flashlights (the kind that look like they'd take 2 C or 2 D cells) are much less likely to have user-replaceable battery packs inside.

Good luck!

The physical differences between two models of Ryobi batteries is:
- The P103 (Part Number 130429008) is a 1.5 Amp/Hour (a measure of how long a battery lasts on a charge) battery. If totally discharged it takes about 15-20 minutes to charge back to full. It is lighter than the P104 because it has half the cells inside. Lighter, quicker to recharge, quicker to discharge, shorter lifespan.
- The P104 (Part Number 130429017) is a 3.0 Amp/Hour battery. It takes about 30-35 minutes to charge it to full if fully discharged. Slightly heavier, longer time to discharge & recharge, longer lifespan.
Considerations:
- No difference between batteries in the performance of your tools.
- The number of times you discharge and recharge a battery determines a batteries lifespan. That's why most manuals will tell you to fully discharge a battery before putting it on a charger.
- If you only have one battery you cannot use your tools while it is recharging. On big projects you have to have two batteries.
- The weight difference between batteries is negligable unless you are working with the tool in your hand for extended periods.

Hi, you can find your battery on amazon. Take a look here: Amazon com bp hp 550 11 2 4 550mah. I hope this was helpful. Cheers

possibly faulty battery, could be software but unlikely

might have have a dead cell. NI-cad have memory you have might have expired the memory. try drain it completely.then recharging it.

I've known this problem to occur if the wrong kind of CR123/CR123A lithium battery is used. They come as rechargeable and dry cell (i.e. non-rechargeable) versions. For sensitive devices like yours the difference is important as the internal resistance of the rechargeables is lower which affects the voltage characteristics.This meter is designed only for the dry cell version: see page 34 of the user manual, although the instructions don't make this fact clear enough IMHO. The reason for using the dry cell version is that the output voltage remains constant until the battery is nearly exhausted, but the rechargeable version starts at a slightly higher than nominally rated voltage and drifts down as the battery discharges. This means that you only get a truly accurate reading with a dry cell battery. There is no user adjustment to recalibrate the meter but you can use a different ISO rating to compensate or use the exposure compensation settings.

I decided to send you this from the Canon website to see if this helps: 
Issue: What are the specifications for batteries that I can use in my camera?
Solution: Recommended AA batteries for your camera.

What types of AA batteries can I use? Canon rechargeable (NiMH) batteries For the best results, we recommend using Canon rechargeable (NiMH) batteries. Rechargeable batteries provide the best performance and are the most economical choice.
The Canon Battery & Charger Kit includes a battery charger and four rechargeable AA-size NiMH (nickel metal hydride) batteries. The battery kit can be purchase from the Canon eStore.
AA alkaline batteries AA alkaline batteries such as those from Energizer or Duracell will provide the best performance for non-rechargeable batteries.

• ALL AA-based PowerShot digital cameras (including A Series and S5 IS / SX100 IS-type):"Never use manganese (non-alkaline) batteries."
• Since the performance of alkaline batteries may differ according to brand, the operating time of the batteries you purchase may not be as long as the batteries that came with the camera.

Precautions:

• Camera operating time may shorten at low temperatures when alkaline batteries are used. Also due to their specifications, alkaline batteries may expire faster than NiMH batteries. If you are using the camera in cold areas or for a long time, we recommend using Canon AA-size NiMH Battery Kit (a four piece set).
• While it is possible to use AA-size nickel-cadmium rechargeable batteries, performance is unreliable and their use is not recommended.
• Never mix unused and partially used batteries. Always load two or four (depending on camera model) fresh (or fully recharged) batteries at the same time.
• Be careful to load the batteries with their positive (+) and negative (-) ends in the right direction.
• Never mix batteries of different types or from different manufacturers. All batteries should be identical.
• Before inserting the batteries, wipe the battery terminals well with a dry cloth. Oil from ones skin or other dirt may cause a considerable reduction in the number of recordable images or reduced usage time.
• Battery performance deteriorates at low temperatures (especially with alkaline batteries). If you are using the camera in cold areas and batteries are running down faster than they should, you may be able to restore performance by placing batteries in an inner pocket to warm them up prior to use. But be careful that you don't put the batteries into a pocket together with a metal key chain or other metallic objects, as these objects may cause batteries to short-circuit.
• If you do not plan to use the camera for a long time, remove the batteries from the camera and store them in a safe place. Batteries may leak and damage the camera if left installed during prolonged periods of non-use.

WARNING
Never use damaged batteries or batteries whose outer seal is completely or partially missing or peeled off, as there is risk that such batteries may leak, overheat, or burst. Always check the seals on store-bought batteries before loading them, as some batteries may come with defective seals. Do not use batteries with defective seals.