My oven wont work

my first thought is if the oven is standard 220 three or four prong electric, for safety, go to breaker switch panel,"in House or outside of house", open pannel door and find the breaker switch marked for "oven" or "kitchen utility" . it will be a double switch of 20 to 25 amp ,"each". or it will b One breaker switch of 45-50 amp. ,switch it to off. then see that the oven has no power, the stove top as well as the lights and the oven .try to unlock it now. by lever or button ? then if not unlocking turn the breaker back on and try it again. hope it works for you.

get in a gas fitter as there is a burner problem
probably best if you junk it and get a new unit
much safer with gas units

A simple try you can do is to turn off the circuit breaker to the oven from your breaker panel. Wait about 3 minutes or so then turn it back on. This should hopefully "reboot" the oven panel.

I hope this helps! :)

If it's just water, unplug it for a couple of days and turn the switch back and forth a few times during these couple of days. The water should evaporate and your cooktop should start working again.If this did not help - one of the burner switches (or assembly with all switches and wiring, depending on model) will need replacement

HI, This will be a simple fix here. The light switch will be the culprit. The circuit is damaged, thus, allowing for a continuously closed circuit. Simply replacing the switch will solve this issue. The switch should be mounted on the control panel. remove the control panel front trim screws, to access the switch housing.

Do you have a push button in the centre , between 2 dials and under display? If so, try pushing it twice then turn oven dial

had same fault its a temperature switch at back of oven, you have to remove panel and is located half way up on left and has two spade terminals coming out the back.

It is the whole front face w/ the buttons. My whole neigborhood has these ovens (same builder, same ovens) and this part lasts about 2-4 years. The part is about $165. You can see it on Home Depot's appliance repair site. It looks like there is nothing electronic, but there is, and it's busted. It is really easy to replace:
1. Turn off the breaker at your house's breaker panel.
2. Verify there is no power to the oven.
3. Open the oven door. Look on the right and left side of the oven. There should be 4-6 screws going from vertical trim pieces of the oven into your cabinets. Your builder may have also put screws from the bottom trim of the oven into your cabinets. Mine did not. Remove these screws.
4. After that, your oven should slide forward out of the cabinet. Pull it about 6 inches out.
5. There are two screws (1/4 inch hex headed screws) holding the front panel to the oven. Remove those.
6.Slide the front panel off.
7. Remove the computer ribbon looking wire from the back of the control panel. It's a strange connection - it should come out effortlessly when done right. The little grey connection that surrounds the wire's entry point stays on the panel, but a wedge is jammed between the grey surround and the wire. You pull the wedge out and the wire comes out...easier than my credit card out of my wallet.
8. Remove the four screws (again, 1/4 inch hex headed screws) connecting the thick, double layered circuit board and clock display from the metal face.
9. The metal face is what you need to replace. Pasted onto the front of the metal face is a super thin button panel, and that's the part that died, and will die again, and again, and again...
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Hi, Dacor has a Technical Manual that may help you with your problem. It has a ECS wall mount oven but does not list a ECPS. Is your listing of the model correct? Here is a link to download the Technical Manual. https://www.scribd.com/doc/14008662/Dacor-Technical-Manual
Hope it helps.

You need to remove the whole oven from its cabinet (after switching off the electricity supply). Removing the doors first; (see http://www.youtube.com/user/Apart4u for videos of this) then remove the facia, which allows you access to the two restraining hooks near the top of the sides of the oven. With these slackened off (screws at the front) and pushed back, the oven can be slid out of its housing - be careful, it's heavy - onto a similar height workbench in front of the oven housing. Removing the wiring hatch (2 screws) and the rear panel (6 screws) gives access to the screw in bulb. Hope this helps :)