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Not an expert opinion but seems that either you have low refrigerant and maybe the compressor is not therefore starting or the compressor has an issue, or the power to the compressor is missing.
It sounds like the fan is not functioning. With the breaker, SSU, and/or power off check the wiring, tighten any loose wiring, and make sure nothing is blocking the fan from spinning. Check to see if it will spin by hand, if there is access. If it does, and you have power, then the fan motor may need to be replaced.
Statement One; "Took laptop apart, removed any dust,...."
A) Fan Assembly: Did you remove ALL dust/dirt from the Fan's blades, center hub, and surrounding cage? (Shroud)
This would require the additional use of Q-tips, and/or a small soft brush, besides the can of compressed air for computers.
Critical areas on the fan, is where the fan blade meets the center hub, and along the outside edges of the blades.
Removal of dust/dirt from these hard to get to areas generally requires use of an additional tool, rather than just air.
Granted, it may be possible to remove dust/dirt from these critical areas with just compressed air, BUT, you DO NOT want to spin the fan too fast.
Spinning the fan faster than it was designed for, may cause premature failure of the Fan's bearings. Fan doesn't spin at the correct RPM's, and or may spin intermittently. (Spins, slows down, maybe stops. Then spins again, and over, and over)
( Yes, it is not uncommon for the fan to spin at ALL times. Revolutions Per Minute may increase, as the heat increases, from the task at hand)
This is why Short Bursts of air are used to clean the Fan.
B) Heatsink: Did you clean out the fins of the Heatsink t-h-o-r-o-u-g-h-l-y? Plus the filter at the end of the Heatsink?
1) Cooling Tube: The slightly flattened copper Cooling Tube is filled with Nitrogen.
The Nitrogen greatly helps transfer the heat from the Cooling Tube plates, which sit on the top of the Processor, and GPU, (Graphics chipset), to the Heatsink. If there is a pinhole due to poor manufacturing, the Nitrogen will have escaped.
A rarity, granted.
Statement 2) Artic Silver 5 thermal paste. Nice stuff. BUT, Artic Silver 5 contains real Silver. Silver is a Good conducting medium. Good for heat, AND electricity.
Using Too much Artic Silver 5 can lead to drastic detrimental issues. When the Processor heats up to operating temperature, it heats the thermal paste up.
If there is too much Artic Silver 5 used, it will ooze off the top of the Processor. This ooze will then ooze over solder joints, and onto the pins of the processor socket, causing a Short Circuit.
Not a direct issue here with your problem at present, but wanted to state it.
The top of the Intel Core i processor (Core i3, Core i5, Core i7, were used in the NV79 model series ), and the bottom of the plates which sit on the processor, MUST be t-h-o-r-o-u-g-l-y clean.
If a thermal pad is used it Must be removed Totally. If thermal paste was used it Must be removed Totally. NO residue of Any kind left behind.
This is why a non-static scraper, such as an old plastic credit card, is used to scrape the two surfaces, then Isopropyl Alcohol administered with Q-tips, is used.
[ CAUTION! Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE! Use in a Well ventilated area, with NO sparks, or flames present ]
Both surfaces need to be clean enough to eat off of. (Literally)
{ The Cooling Tube assembly is fastened to the motherboard, and Processor, and GPU; by the plate which sits on top of the Processor, plus the two screws in the Fan Assembly.
The 4 screws in the 'Processor plate' need to be tightened down E-V-E-N-L-Y In a criss-cross fashion, and each screw is tightened down in increments. (Tighten one screw until it touches, then go to the screw in the opposite corner. Tighten until it touches. Keep criss-crossing until all 4 screws TOUCH. Then lightly tighten one screw. Criss-cross over, and lightly tighten this screw. Keep criss-crossing until all 4 screws are - Lightly tightened. Now go back, and fully tighten all 4 screws using the criss-cross method )
IF, the processor plate is not tightened down properly, it can lead to the plate sitting at an angle. The plate will not be sitting perfectly flat of top of the Processor, and the plate which sits on top of the GPU }
Looking at the Cooling Tube/Heatsink/Fan Assembly, it looks too small to be adequate,
The Intel Core i processors run pretty hot. (90 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit )
The Processor, and the GPU, (Graphics Processing Unit), are the two major hardware components, that put out the most heat.
The heatsink plate which sits on top of the Processor looks to be adequate, but the heatsink plate which sits on top of the GPU, does Not. (The little rectangular tab of metal, that protrudes from the processor Cooling Tube/heatsink plate )
Heat has to transfer FROM the GPU, to the heatsink plate which sits on top of the Processor, THEN to the Cooling Tube.
Most designs have the GPU plate attached directly to the Cooling Tube, and not the above design.
Means to me, inadequate surface area of the GPU plate, and poor heat transfer to the Cooling Tube.
This is an issue that has also plagued HP laptop models, such as the DV2000, DV6000, and DV9000 series models,
Not posted for the reworking of the BGA surface mount for the GPU, but for the added surface area for the GPU, shown starting at 12:04 in the video.
To conclude: 1) Make absolutely sure ALL cooling system components are C-L-E-A-N.
2) Ensure that the Artic Silver 5 was applied properly, and not too much was used. Ensure that the heatsink plate of the Cooling Tube for the Processor, is sitting perfectly flat, and not slightly tilted.
Ensure that the top of the Processor, top of the GPU, and bottom of both plates which sit on them, are p-e-r-f-e-c-t-l-y clean, before applying thermal paste.
3) Add an extra cooling surface for the GPU
4) Make S-U-R-E the fan is spinning at the Correct RPM's, and not spinning intermittently. (You can watch with the laptop partially disassembled ) Check to see if the Fan has any perceptible side-to-side movement. Means the bearings are bad.
5) IF, due to constant overheating, the GPU has loosened in it's BGA surface mount to the motherboard, (Solder connections), it can cause overheating, also.
Something to think about.
[ BGA = Ball Grid Array To explain the BGA surface mount, compare to an older Intel Pentium 4 processor, and it's Socket 478 processor socket.
The processor has the contact pins. (478) The processor socket has the matching socket holes. (478)
With a BGA surface mount there are no contact pins. There are Solder Balls on the chipset. With a BGA surface mount there is no socket, nor socket holes. There are Copper Pads on the motherboard.
The chipset (In this case a GPU), is set into place with the Solder Balls lining up with the matching Copper Pads, on the motherboard. Heat is applied at a specific temperature, and length of time.
This action melts the Solder Balls, which solders the chipset to the Copper Pads. (Solders the chipset to the motherboard)
Excessive heat over time can partially melt these solder connections, which causes a poor connection. The poor connection/s create resistance. Resistance creates Heat ]
{ Chip and Chipset are slang terms for I.C. Integrated Circuit ]
For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Which fan doesnt spin the inside fan or outside fan? If its the outside fan try replacing the dual capacitor for the fan and the compressor. First take the fan blade and see if it spins freely if you spin it and it stops immedietly the fan bearings are bad. If it spins freely replace dual capacitor. If trhis helps please rate me and do a testimonial.
Bring the vehicle into a repair shop the technician has to duplicate the situation before he /she can conduct testing. I don't think your cooling fan is the problem . I'm leaning towards engine main relay.(located under the dash board) contacts getting hot and once you turn off car there is no ventilization inside the vehicle ( a/c air blowing on relay) to cool it down. The only
draft is coming from cooling fan to cool off its contacts. Pretty soon you'll have longer wait periods before you can start the vehicle . Unless you live in the Artics.lol
First look for burnt or lose wires , if all the wires from the fan are ok , replace the capacitor (no more than $20) ; but after this if the fan still won't spin ,you got to replace the fan motor and when you do make sure it has the same rotation , same rpm and same volts.
I assume you mean the condenser fan motor ? Try to manually spin it. If it is hard to turn, change the motor. If it spins freely, change the capacitor.
Have you checked to see if there is a switch on the fan housing? Usually this is how you select the direction the fan is spinning. If it's spinning clockwise as you look up at it, it's blowing air up. If it's spinning counter-clockwise it's blowing air down.
The remote not working could be:
- it needs resetting/synchronizing with the receiver, or
- the battery (ies) is dead, or
- the remote (transmitter) or the receiver is bad, or
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