I took the front panel off to paint it and I need to know how the 3 wires on the rocker switch go back on.there are 3 wires that go on the rocker switch there is 2 orange/2 blue/1 black

Yes they run a wire loom that has wires that are not used in some models. One thing you need to check is the wire loom because it flexes every time the door opens and closes and wires can break .Also you may want to go to autozone website and make a free account, you can put in the year make and model and look for the free repair guides for wire diagrams.

They make replacement rockers for these vans. You need to grind all the paint off the old one and get the new one fitting good, then there is a glue made especially for gluing panels on. Glue and clamp them in place and finish blending them in with filler, prime and paint.

Copy following link to see illustrations of switch wiring, including combination switch, and 3-way switches, double switches etc
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Unplug the machine. 2) At the head, or control panel, find the two screws that hold it to the case. Some are on the left and right front lower corners of the panel, and some are vertical facing s on the rear left and right side. Also on some models they are in the front but you have to pull the end caps off the sides of the control panel. Further more in some of the newer models you have to take a thin paint scraper and slide under the left and right normers to press the clips in to release. 3) Remove the 2 screws and then pull the panel from the lower part of it towards you and roll it backwards. 4) Disconnect the lid switch connection in the the middle where the two grey wires and the green wire block connects to the body of the machine, usually near the middle under the panel. 5) with a flathead screwdriver pop out the two brass retainer clips on the right and left side. 6) Open the lid slightly where you can grab the case, not the tub, just the case, and pull forward and surprise!!! You just took the complete top, sides and front of the machine off.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

I don't have a diagram but I can give you a walk through that I believe will help. The type of machine you have falls into the direct drive catagory. Here is the walk-through:
1) Unplug the machine. 2) At the head, or control panel, find the two screws that hold it to the case. Some are on the left and right front lower corners of the panel, and some are vertical facing s on the rear left and right side. Also on some models they are in the front but you have to pull the end caps off the sides of the control panel. Further more in some of the newer models you have to take a thin paint scraper and slide under the left and right normers to press the clips in to release. 3) Remove the 2 screws and then pull the panel from the lower part of it towards you and roll it backwards. 4) Disconnect the lid switch connection in the the middle where the two grey wires and the green wire block connects to the body of the machine, usually near the middle under the panel. 5) with a flathead screwdriver pop out the two brass retainer clips on the right and left side. 6) Open the lid slightly where you can grab the case, not the tub, just the case, and pull forward and surprise!!! You just took the complete top, sides and front of the machine off.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

During the welding process you probably burnt thru the wires that lead to these accessories The fuses for these accessories are under the dash very near the A pillar.

Green, brown and blue wires the is a common connection and the other 2 are either up or down the common can be determined by jumpering the wires green/ brown or green blue or brown/blue one combination makes it go up one makes it go down the other does nothing which ever wire is common to up and down usually mounts in the middle of the rocker. any momentary contact rocker switch will work it's only a 12 volt system

If you switch still"clicks" you need a switch rocker, if it no longer clicks you will need a new switch button. You will get best results with the genuine button from an AERUS Electrolux repair shop

There are a set of body keys under the bumpers on this vac which slide forward to the front door with a set of pliers. They are locking one way so reinstall same direction . Examine the front hinge are before opening the vac. Once removed the panels will open like a **** shell from back to front. You will need to be careful realign all pieces in their tracks.
The switch is best accessed by removing only the bag cage. The housing will lif up without detaching wiring and the rocker and switch button will snap out as separate pieces. Test before reassembling and when done if the entire body does not assemble easily stop and check your alignment. It will click together like Lego pieces when you have it right.
Post back to advise how you make out

The 2100 is an older model which is prone to rocker switch failure. What you see outside is only a switch button. Underneath is a plastic rocker which sits in a grove and pivots back and forth to activate the on off switch.
If you push the switch down and there is no audible "click" you Likely need the rocker itself, especially if you tip the vac upside down and shake it and hear a piece rattling inside or find a broken narrow plastic finger about 1/2" inch long when opened.
However if it clicks and works every 3-5 times,the rocker is fine and you will need the spring mechanism and switch button which you can see form outside.
To remove either the process is the same.
Separate the body by opening the bag cage and pulling the two bumpers forward with a set of pliers. They are locking keys. Once removed, the rear housing will drop off allowing the vac to hinge open back to front. Do this with the vac laying upside down and observe the hinge section of the front bag door .DO NOT REMOVE THE MOTOR. You will need to clip all these componnets back together to reassemble and slide the bag chamber back to seat against the motor with the motor housing engage in the ribbing of the vac side walls.
With the vac open you will only need to remove the spring loaded bag lockout switch and the bag housing it sits on, not the motor or rewind..
Once removed there will be 6 chrome philips screws visible. These hold the top trim on the front of the vac and the front ones hold the on off switch into its housing. At the very front will be two screws going through a black or whitish switch housing. That housing will lift out with wires attached to reveal the switch rocker, etc,. This portion will lift back and out at about 45 degrees of the inner housing, as a unit. The switch button sits atop the rocker via two end tabs and will pop off the housing to reveal if the rocker itself has a broken "finger" or if the button has a weak spring.
The suspect spring is not the coil rocker spring but the thin U shaped spring on the underside of the switch button. Remove the rocker spring with a pair of needle nose pliers.and examine the rocker comparing to your new one.Use more vaseline on the new rocker and if you have it reinsert the clear flex plastic into the coil spring. If not disregard.
Re-installation is the reverse order, tuck switch back in at 45 degrees from back to front.
Pay special attention the the rubber seal at the back of the bag cage.
If anything is misaligned in this body you will fight to reassemble. Don't fight it , back up and look at your work. When and ONLY when it is perfect it will realign and click together like a lego set and the keys will slide in perfectly
You can and should test the vac before reassembling the whole body, simpley slide your hand under neath and activate the switch, with a bag inside the vac.
See now, wasn't that EASY???????
Please post back to advise how you make out. Its a 7 minute process worth $25 for a good tech. A bad tech will spend half a day trying to figure this one out but just go slow and follow the instructions and you will do fine.

you need to check the wire harness from the vehicle to the door for broken wires.the harness that goes through the door post and into the door gets a lot of flexing and will eventually break the wires in two.if this is not the case ,you may just need to replace the switch.