F24 code cant turn on oven with touch panel...f24 code keeps coming on after turning off breaker.

SOURCE: kenmore oven touch panel error codes f1 f3 f5 f7, oven failure

I had the same problem. It occurred when it was in a cleaning cycling. I fot the F3 Fasult and also the door remained locked. I let it cool down overnight and killed the power at the circuit breaker. I turned the power on and got a F3 alarm and the door remained locked. I took our the screws holding the control panel and pull it out far enough to give me access to the locking mechanisim. I took out the screw holding the locking latch to the motor. With the latch loose, iwas able to get move it out of the door lock. With the door now open I was able to get to the temperature sensor with was held with two sheet mmetal screws. The screw were impossible to get out, so I ground off the heads with a Dremel tool. I couldn't get the sensor wires out. So I pulled the unit out to get at the back sde. I cut the old sensor wires and was able to get in the hole to remove the screws with a pair of needle nose pliers. I installed a new sensor and with wire nuts attached the sensor wires to the computer wires. Make sure that you work the insulation in the hole to plug it back up. Put the oven back in and installed the sensor in the oven with two small sheet metal screws. . refasten the locking latch to the locking latch motor. turn on the power and everything was fine. I ohmmed out the old sensor and it was 180 ohms at room temperature. The replacement checked out at a 1000 ohms in accordance with the schematic for the control. By the way, the schematic was neatly folded on the control panel when I removed it I used a Whirlpool sensor Part No. 12001656 which was half the price of a Kenmore sensor. +

SOURCE: Broiler won't turn off. Error code F-3

The broiler won't turn off even when you press the "Off/cancel" button? It sounds like the broiler control relay is stuck shut. The F3 code means the oven temperature sensor has failed, this probably happened because the oven got too hot when the broiler was stuck on. There is fail-safe thermal fuse that will blow if the oven gets too hot, so the oven won't melt down but you should leave the unit off so you don't blow the fuse.

To fix the relay, you will have to replace the oven control module. I think this is about $200 and not too hard to replace if you are somewhat handy. The temperature sensor is also serviceable, you can find parts at Appliance Parts Pros on the web. Hopefully you haven't thrown the range out yet, let me know if you need further assistance.

SOURCE: Keep getting F1 error code (constant beep) on my GE profile oven.

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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%#$TEF

SOURCE: Keep getting F1 error code (constant beep) on my GE profile oven.

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
&%YR

SOURCE: 326B1230P001 GE TrueTemp Black Oven Error Code F0

We had the same problem with our GE Tru Temp Oven and the fix worked like a charm! Thank you for posting this fix - you saved our dinner party!