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Anonymous Posted on Jan 23, 2014

Lights turning on

I have a pole barn with light switches that seem to be wirelessly connect to a switch in the house. The outdoor lights are turning on without anyone using a switch control. The remote switch in the house seems to be the problem. It has the following #s: X31220, Catalog No. 6319-2. and 9C21HO. The switches are old (20 years). Can not find a replacement.

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Joseph Marquardt

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  • Contributor 25 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 31, 2014
Joseph Marquardt
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Try changing the code in both switches to the next available number. Some one nearby may have set their lights to work off the same code and thus activating yours as well. As to replacements, just google cat# 6319-2. lots of options.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 63 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 05, 2009

SOURCE: Wiring to a 3 single pole combination switch

run 14-2 wire to power switches, then run one 14-3 wire and one 14-2 up to fixture..you will have an extra neutral but its okay... just tie all nuetrals together....this gives you the needed 3 hot wires!

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Anonymous

  • 11 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 09, 2009

SOURCE: How do I re-code my Raynor Garage door opener

on the back of your garage door opener there is a colored learn button--press and release-the learn indicator light will glow for a short time usually 30 seconds. within thirty seconds press and hold the buton on the hand held remote that you wish to operate your garage door. release the button when the motor unit lights blink. if you don;t have a light, two clicks will be heard. it has learned the code. procedure will be different for multi function control.

Anonymous

  • 76 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 27, 2009

SOURCE: need to know wiring diagram for cooper single pole lighted switch

well lets see on one side you should have two brass screws that would be to interupt your lead to the fixture then you either have a brass and silver screws on the other side or you have black and white wires the black or brass is always hot the silver or white is neutral does that answer your question if not hit me back with a description of what your switch looks like

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Mark

  • 704 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 07, 2009

SOURCE: new Leviton 'lighted, decorative' switch flickers when off

You cannot use standard electronic dimmer switches with CFL bulbs, only incandesant bulbs! That is why you are getting the flickering.

With CFL's bulbs installed in a light fixture that has a non-flouresant rated dimmer switch on that circuit, you will cause the standard dimmer to fail.

You have to look at the dimmer package (sometimes printed on the back of the dimmer itself too) to see if it can be used with CFL bulbs,as many are not rated for use with anything other than standard incandesant bulbs.


Hope you found this very helpful and best regards!

Anonymous

  • 1865 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 02, 2009

SOURCE: wiring a leviton 5625-W switch receptacle combination

You cannot replace the switch with a switch/receptacle combo because there is no neutral wire. The black and white that you see are both used as hot wires. One is the Line and the other is the Load.

You have to install another 2 wire cable or replace the existing with a 3-wire cable. A 3-wire cable has a black, red, and white, plus the bare ground wire

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I have two lights on the same circuit. Recently had my house sided and when I replace the light bulb on one of the outside lights, it came on when the switch inside the house was off. I turned thw switch...

11-8-12
Clarify: One switch controls 2 outdoor lights.
One turns on-off with switch.
Other stays ON all the time.
If this is not what you mean, then add a comment.

Might have a nail in a wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/nail-in-wire-500.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html
This is absolute fire hazard.
Notify contractor, call electrician.
We used to do siding, and put nails in water pipes and AC tubes.

Problem would probably be located near light that stays ON.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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I am replacing a programmable timer switch that controls exterior garage lights. This switch is in the same box as a ac switch that turns on the lights inside the garge. There are 3 rolmex wires inside the...

Project is not clear.
Are you replacing the timer with a switch?
I have complete files on timers, so if you are replacing the old timer with a new timer, then add a comment and say which timer you are installing.
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html

You have 3 cables. Assuming 120Volts.
Each cable has 1 black and 1 white and 1 ground.
White wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Ground wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Black wires are next:

(A) Cable A:
One of the three cables will have a black wire that connects to both the switch and to the timer.
So look for the black wire that connects to both switch and to timer.
This is the hot wire from breaker box. Connect this black wire to both switches including new switch.

(B) Cable B: One cable goes to garage lights. Black wire going to garage lights connects to on-off switch.
So the garage light switch has 2 black wires: 1 black wire from cable A, and 1 black wire from cable B going to light.

(C) Cable C: One cable goes to outdoor lights. Black wire going to outdoor lights connects to new on-off switch.
So the outdoor light switch has 2 black wires: 1 black wire from cable A, and 1 black wire from cable B going to light.
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I have installed a 2-way dimmer switch in my dining room. I was able to install it and it works great. However, on the other side of the wall where I installed the switch, I have another single way...

If I understand correctly new dimmer is in different box than outdoor switch.
And outdoor switch controls different light than new dimmer.
Both new dimmer and outdoor light are on same circuit breaker, and that breaker is not tripped.

Outdoor problem could be related if loose wire inside dimmer box also feeds over to outdoor switch. More below.
Here's how I would troubleshoot problem.
1) Check outdoor bulb(s). This step can be big time saver.

2) Pull outdoor switch out of box a bit so you can see and test wires.

3) If wires are pushed into quick connects located on back of switch, these connects get loose. Moving switch usually causes loose wire to connect again, so turn switch ON-OFF and see if outdoor lights work. Sometimes switch works fine after quick connects reconnect. If quick connects are bad, use tiny screwdriver in slot next to connect-hole to release wire. And then connect wire to screw terminals on switch. Or replace switch.

4) Turn switch to OFF, use tester and test both screws on switch to bare ground wire. Tester should light up on one screw. If tester does not light up, then switch is not getting power, and that wire has to be tracked back to see where short is.

a) Look if one of the black switch wires is connected to other switch, or connected to other black wires inside same box. This wire might have come loose.
b) Look at white wire inside same box and make sure they are twisted together and covered with wire nut.

c) Now here is where dimmer could be related ... if white wires are joined together in dimmer box, they could have come loose if they were not properly twisted together and covered with wire nut.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-twist-electric-wire.html

5) Turn switch to ON and test again. Tester should light up on both screws. If switch does not light up on both screws, then switch is bad. Replace switch.

Add a comment if you need more help.
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I'm trying to install this for our outdoor Christmas lights. The wall switch box has 1 black, 1 white, and 1 bare (ground). Where do I connect the red "timer" wire from the timer unit? When I...

Single pole application, red wire is capped off.
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#ST01C

That being said, you still have to connect Blue and Black wires correctly.
Switch has two wires, if you do not know which wire is which, follow instructions below.
Connect Blue and Black to either wire.
Turn on power.
Push ON-OFF button.
If lights work, then timer is wired correctly.
If lights don't work, then reverse Blue and Black.

Be sure outdoor bulb is working.
I have a long story about that, and tested every wire and breaker ... and bulb was burned out.
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I am not quite the talking type but i don't wanna burn down the house

Need to know what is your issue. If you are asking how to hook it up it is a simple task. First you need to confirm if it is a single pole or 3-way switch. Does more than one switch control the light? If not is a single pole switch. I would first turn off the power to the switch you are replacing. Check this by turning on the light and turn off breakers one at a time until the light goes out. Take out old switch and connect new one. tkae one wire off old switch and connect it to one wire on dimmer. Doesn't matter which one. Take the second wire off the switch and connect it to the remaining wire of the dimmer. If you have a ground wire (bare copper wire) connected to the old switch and you have a bare or green wire on the dimmer, connect those together as well. Mount dimmer in box, re-energize circuit and you should be good to go. I am curious why you are using a 1000 watt switch (unless you are controlling more than 600 watts of lights)(9 65 watt bulbs = 585 watts). Let me know how you make out. Hope that helps.
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I have a Tork timer model number 1101 24 hr time switch. Can you tell me how to set it???

Tork 1101 is a 120V mechanical dial-type timer

c79f9b8.jpgTork 1100 series

To set timer, you lift and rotate dial. Line up current time with the word Time located to lower right of dial.

Next, place trippers on dial. Dark trippers are OFF and light-colored trippers are ON

Tork 1101 is 120V timer.
120V Black Hot wire from circuit breaker connects to Pole L
There is a brass bridge that connects Pole L and Pole 1 >> if this is missing, put a jumper wire that connects both Poles
120V White Neural wire from circuit breaker connects to Pole X
White wire going to Load (lights, fan, motor) connects to Pole X
Black wire going to Load connects to Pole 2

Up-vote if this information was helpful. Thanks for the feedback.
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How do you wire a Two Single Pole Switch for each switch to run seperate lights all off of one circuit. Example: Recess Lights on one switch and a Track light on the other switch. 6 black wires, 6 white...

so 6 grounds is connected together, and conneted to mains ground (direct connection), the white wires is (mains Neutral) and you connect all 6 white wires together (to doble pole safety switch) in one end pole switch, and you connect a wire from another pole the same end at common Two Single Pole Switch and connect (Black wires recess lights) to one free pole switch and (Black wires track lights) to another free pole.

The mains connect to safety switch live (Black or Brown) to another free safety switch pole, Neutral (White or blue) to free safety switch pole and earth to ground wires on mains connector.

Note: Allways use a mains 300mA diferencial safety switch, for better protection.
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I'm replacing a single pole light switch with a timer switch and the timer switch comes with a hot (Black) and a Load (Red) as well as the netural (White). My question is how to wire it up. Does the white...

It all depends on how the light on the pole is wired. The switch you have is meant to interrupt the power between the circuit breaker and the light, just like the switch does now. The new switch uses power to run itself, so you need an additional wire. Usually the lights on a pole have the power coming in on top, and a wire coming down for the switch - black and white. Lets say there was no switch - on top of the pole there would be a black wire going to the hot, or center contact on the pole light, and the white wire would go to the ground, or outside of the bulb. If (BIG IF) things are wired like they are supposed to be, there will be a black wire (hot) coming in from the breaker, down the pole, instead of going to the light. The switch you have in place now interrupts the power so you can turn it off/on. Then when you turn the switch on, power goes up the white wire to the hot, or bottom of the bulb. Theoretically, there should be another black wire going back up to power the light once it leaves the switch. People normally use regular wire, which has a black and a white inside a plastic casing. So, bottom line - you need to run a red wire from the light to the new switch, hook the white wire up to the ground. So: power coming in on top goes down pole to new switch to black. Red wire hooks up to pole light where it is now white, goes down pole to red on switch. Old white wire gets unhooked from light on top, and hooked to common (ground) on top.
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