The battery door switch to open the door,would not slide open.I got the door open, but when I took the 3 screws out to get to the slide the spring came off.Now i'm trying to put it back together, but can't find out how the spring goes back in.

Here are the codes you posted along with the possible issues that may have caused each code to be triggered. It's possible the circuit these switches share has a problem that needs to be diagnosed.

It could well be a problem with the wiring or a problem with the connections between the switches and the Multiplex Control Unit, or possibly with the Multiplex Control Unit itself.

B1129

• Driver Side Door Lock Knob Switch Signal Error
• Faulty Driver Side Door Lock Knob Switch
• Driver Side Door Lock Knob Switch harness is open or shorted
• Driver Side Door Lock Knob Switch circuit poor electrical connection
• Faulty Door Multiplex Control Unit

B2077

• Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 1 Signal Error
• Faulty Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 1
• Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 1 harness is open or shorted
• Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 1 circuit poor electrical connection
• Faulty Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit

B2078

• Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 2 Signal Error
• Faulty Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 2
• Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 2 harness is open or shorted
• Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 2 circuit poor electrical connection Faulty Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit

B2079

• Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 3 Signal Error
• Faulty Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 3
• Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 3 harness is open or shorted
• Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 3 circuit poor electrical connection
• Faulty Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit

The door latch in Kenmore and Kitchenaid isn't of the best design.The spring steel latching tab is needs to push down the black plastic slide mechanism when the door in closed. That slide pushes down on a micro switch which interrupts the cycle when you open the door when the dish washer is running. Take the latch assembly back out. You can insert two compression springs inside the slide on each side of the latch. They are approx 3/16 Dia x 3/4 to 1 inch long. In the hardware dept at Home Depot or Lowe's..The springs will push the slide down hard enough to activate the switch. Right now your dish washer thinks the door is open.

I found the answer (see below) posted on another web site. I followed the instructions and replaced the spring. I found, as the original poster had, that the new spring works better than the original and is much more sturdy. To the original instructions, I would add the following:

1) There are about 20 screws so have patience removing and replacing the screws.
2) Step 3, "Slide off the rear panel" requires further clarification as the panel will not slide off even with all screws removed. I had to turn the oven over, with the top of the oven sitting on the work table. I then used a screw driver to lift the two tabs that hold the back panel to the bottom panel. With the tabs lifted, the back panel will rotate away from the oven along the edge where back panel slides into the top panel. The back panel can then be slid out. I have included three photos that show this step.
3) Step 7, "Re-attach feet": Be sure to use the guides on the bottom of the oven to slide the foot assembly onto the oven. I had unsuccessfully tried to screw the feet onto the oven without using the guides.

Oringinal instructions for replacing the broken spring:

Just repaired this yesterday.

Got a spring from Lowes (Hillman Part # 543028 for about $4), it's larger than the original but seems much sturdier, original is really thin metal. Fit the space provided without problem.

Oddly, end result was a more 'giving' spring action, prefer it to original, which loved to snap shut unless door was 100% opened (ie fully 90 degree open).

This is for BOV800XL:
1. Remove all rear screws
2. Remove feet entirely
3. Slide off rear panel
4. I was not able to remove top housing - but I was able to gently pry sides open just enough to thread the new spring with a little ingenuity and effort. Watch out for sharp metal edges everywhere.
5. Slide back in (remember that top edge goes under the top edge/lip)
6. Put all screws back in
7. Re-attach feet

Good luck!

Hi, try:

To install the battery:

Note: To open the battery door, you will need a paper clip or thin pen.

1. Take the paper clip and use the end to press down on the door latch.

2. Holding the latch down, push the battery door up.

3. The door will slide up and spring open, allowing you to access the batteries.

4. Place the battery into the compartment. Be sure to match the (-) on the

battery with the (-) inside the compartment.
5. Slide the battery cover to its original

Well I just did this (ew!)

basically it just pulls out of a slot downwards (when doors open) but there's not much space so I took out a few screws to free the door up a bit.

So - sitting with the machine in front of you and door open down towards you:

I took out the two machine screws that hold the door on to the spring/hinge mechanism. Those are the two on the side of the door near to the hinge/bottom.
I also took out 3 of the screws that screw the inside metal bit of the door on to the plastic fron of the door.

You'll notice that the springs then force the inside and outside of the door apart and you've got some free space to pull the bottom seal out of the metal door. Then clean everything and squeeze the new seal in.

You're probably not going to be able to thread it in from one end.

When you're putting those two machine screws back in you'll probably need to do the top screw (nearest you when door open) with the door almost closed so that the spring is most relaxed and will let you line up the two holes.

Hope that helps

Try this... it fixed my problem whereby the 2005 Toyota Sienna passenger sliding door would sometimes open and sometimes not, yet I could hear the motor trying to open/close it. It cost me 20 minutes and 10 drops of oil, not $1200.

First, get the door open. It took me two weeks of constant trying, but it finally opened.

Next, remove the plastic covering of the inside door handle this way: locate the two screws on the forward edge of the sliding door near the child-safety switch: (the switch is a small lever near the door latch, on the forward edge of the door) loosen and remove the two phillips screws, one above the child-safety latch, and one below.

Remove the plastic cover to expose the gears for the door open/close mechanism.

There's a bunch of intricate plastic and metal parts in there, all coated with white grease. I used some 3-n-1 oil to lubricate everything in there thoroughly, In my case, there was one part that was a little void of grease, hence it "stuck" occasionally.

Test the system. If it's Okay, replace the plastic cover, and re-install the screws.

Now my Toyota Sienna 2005 door never fails to open or close.

Unfortunately, you have to force the battery door (very carefully) to open it, and find what is wrong with it.

It is more likely that when closed the battery door, it was forced and it slided out of one guide channels.

You need to practice a little bit before to try it with force (genlty but with firm force), but the only way to do it is slide the button to open it, and at the same time slide to the side and pull the battery door, everything at the same time. Try it until you are able to open it.

Using any kind of tool (such a plastic pry tool, a small screwdriver, etc) to force will leave marks in the housing, and it's very possible that the plastic locking tabs will break, causing that you will open it, but unable to close properly again.

Best regards,

I think the main problem with this machine is that the grounds fly all over inside when grinding and combine with the steam and hot water and eventually gum up the moving parts. This causes the latch for the filter basket to lose its grip sometimes and the door pops open during the brewing cycle...I was trying to take apart the slides to clean them out and made the mistake of removing the small screw underneath the left slide. Then the spring popped out and it took about an hour to get it back together, very frustrating. I ended up bending one end of the spring into a slight hook with a needle nose pliers so it would catch better on the "nub" that is connected to the side button. The best way I figured out to clean the slides so far is to blast them out with compressed air periodically for preventative maintenance. I use one of those cans normally used to dust off electronics and insert the straw into the slides.

This video will show you how to change a door seal on this Bosch classics 1200 WFL 2463GB/12 FD

to get to the battery door you must remove the back, to remove the back you must remove the top of the grip (shutter button and dial and WT lever). remove top of grip... 1) starting at the bottom of the plastic strip (along the front edge of the grip) that holds the shutter button, slide upward, the strip will bow outward and after about 3/16", the bottom's free. the only other thing holding it in place is a bit of double-stick tape and a similar clip at the top. CAREFUL! there's a spring under the button that's easy to lose. 2) Inside the battery case, front battery, all the way at the top, there's a tiny phillips screw, pull it. 3) peel away the right side rubber grip right by where your thumb meets the W on the W/T lever. 1st hole you'll see is a springy clip, keep going around to the right til you find a screw. pull that. 4) back to the springy clip hole, pushing inward on the finger, the top will come off straight up. leave it hanging, you just need it out of the way so the back can come loose. remove the back... 5) bottom of camera, remove 2 screws nearest the CE label and one outboard of the rearmost battery. 6) viewfinder cap: 4 screws, skinny on top, fatter on the bottom. the cap pops off. 7) lcd cover/frame: pull away from viewfinder(top) edge about 1/4 inch. the bottom's held by fingers; they need to slide to the left 1/8", then that's off. 8) remove screw @ lowerleft of lcd. now the whole back will slide rearward. 1st thing loose is memory door, remove it. slide the back off, out of the way. you'll now see that the battery door is held on by two hinge pins, not one continuous. the rearmost pin will slide left into the memory cover area, and the door will flex enough to remove it toward the front. trickiest part of reassembly is the spring under the shutter button. balance the spring on the camera, put the button into place. hold it in place with the screwdriver through eye of plastic strip, leaves plenty of room to seat the strip. lose a screw? I did, and the least-needed one is the one pulled at #3.