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URGENT! My computer doesn't switch on and Ihave a tight schedule.
I was working with a USB external disk.When I plug the external disk AC/DC power supply, my laptop switch off and I am unable to turn it on again. I have a machine from a client, he says "he tried to replace his memory to upgrade it", I suspect he failed to remove ALL power meaning AC and battery prior to doing so. I am sure the machine was otherwise off.
With AC plugged in, battery indicator shows charging. When you press the power switch, the green light briefly comes on and goes out, no fan, no text on screen, no start-up, no hard drive power, no BIOS display, totally DEAD.
Subsequently pressing the power switch - the green light is on less time than the first time after the initial power on attempt, comees on, goes out, sits quiet, like battery is dead.
I do not feel it is a fuse issue because the charging light comes on and green light blinks on and then off.
Ideas? CMOS reset? I have computer repair skills, but not sure if this one is beyond repair.
Thank you, Steven
What kind of response do you get when you remove all SODIMM modules and try to start the computer?What kind of response do you get when you remove all SODIMM modules and try to start the computer?
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What does a power adapter do?
An AC adapter, AC/DC adapter, or AC/DC converter is a type of external power supply, often enclosed in a case similar to an AC plug. ... AC adapters are used with electrical devices that require power but do not contain internal components to derive the required voltage and power from mains power.
OR
power adapter. A power supply for electronic devices. Also called an "AC adapter" or "charger," power adapters plug into a wall outlet and convert AC to a single DC voltage. Computers use multiple DC voltages, and the power adapter is the external part of the power supply for a laptop.
https://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia/term/power-adapter
Believe it or not, unplug the AC adapter (Power Adapter) from the surge protector, and plug it directly into the wall socket. Try this first.
1) I believe the power adapter is rated at 12 Volts DC, and 2 Amps, for the output voltage, and amperage. (12 Volts times 2 Amps = 24 Watts. 12V X 2A = 24W)
Use a multimeter, and test the voltage coming out. You can buy an economical multimeter for around $8 to $12. A lot of stores carry them. An auto parts store is but one place.
The plug end that plugs into the laptop, is cylindrical in shape, and has a hole in the center.
This is DC voltage you are testing. The metal center of the plug is Positive. The outside shield surrounding the plug is Negative.
The Function Knob should be turned to DC Voltage. (If it is a symbol, it will be a dotted line above a solid line. NOT a curved line on a dotted line. This is for AC voltage)
If there is more than one scale, set the Function Knob to DC voltage 0-50 Volts.
The Red probe lead of the multimeter is the Positive lead. The Black probe lead of the multimeter is the Negative lead.
AC adapter plugged into power, the Positive probe lead is inserted into the center of the plug. Be SURE it doesn't touch the outside metal shell at any time.
The Negative probe lead is touched to the outside metal shell.
See if the voltage reads 12 Volts.
AC adapter (Power Adapter) checks out OK? Suggest there is a problem with the small circuit board inside the MyBook.
Inside the MyBook WD500H1U-00 is an ordinary harddrive. It is a desktop sized harddrive. 3.5 inches across in width. (3 and a half inches, or 8.9cm)
Inside that plastic MyBook case is also a small circuit board. An interface circuit board.
The harddrive plugs into the interface circuit board directly, or there is a cable, or cables, that plug into the harddrive from the interface circuit board.
It is this interface circuit board that goes bad most of the time.
You can remove the harddrive out of the MyBook case, and put it inside a desktop computer that uses SATA harddrives, as a Slave drive. Retrieve your information, and burn to disk/s, or flash drive/s.
{DO NOT move any jumpers on the back of a SATA harddrive. These are for the factory ONLY}
Or you can buy an adapter that the harddrive plugs into, and it has a USB cable.
first of all , you are looking at the wrong voltages. The important voltage is the DC OUTPUT, which is the voltage the external harddrives use AND the polarity of the plug attached to the harddrive end of the cable.
if both the harddrives have say 12v dc output and both have the insignia of the center conductor being + (posative) then you can interchange them. and you CAN run a 9volt unit with 12volt DC power, but not the other way around.
Look at your power adaptors again for the OUTPUT and polarity.
should be a half-circle with lines depicting the polarity(+,-) of the center and sheild connections to the hard drives printed on both the harddrives and the power adaptors . This can also be tested with a dc volt meter while the adaptors are plugged into the wall.
DO NOT try to test the AC end while plugged in!!
Regards
Connect the AC adapter into a known working AC outlet and to the DC jack on the notebook. NOTES:
Verify
the correct Sony AC adapter is being used, and not a third-party
replacement AC adapter. To determine the model number of the AC adapter
for your computer, refer to the specifications available online through
the Manuals/Specs/Warranty link on this page.
Do not connect the AC adapter to a surge protector or extension cord.
If the DC jack on the computer is loose or damaged, the computer may require service.
Some
AC adapters have a POWER LED indicator and can be confirmed as
receiving power by ensuring the LED is lit. If the AC adapter is
damaged, or the LED is not lit or continuously flickers when plugged
into a working AC outlet, the adapter must be replaced. A replacement
AC adapter can be obtained from the Sony® Parts and Accessories Sales
Web site at http://www.sony.com/pas or by calling (239) 768-7691.
Attempt to turn on the computer normally.
Press and hold the Power Switch for 5 seconds.
Remove the battery.
Disconnect the AC power adapter.
Press and hold the Power Switch for 5 seconds.
Connect the AC power adapter.
Attempt to turn on the computer. NOTE: If the computer turns on without the battery, connect and charge the battery for 24 hours.
Disconnect all external devices that are connected to the computer. NOTES:
These
devices include, but are not limited to, a modem, floppy disk drive,
network connection, USB device, printer, keyboard, or mouse.
On
older model computers, the maximum current output from the USB is
500ma. If a connected USB device draws more current than this amount,
the unit may not power on.
Attempt to turn on the computer.
Remove any additional Random Access Memory (RAM) that was installed in the computer.
Attempt to turn on the computer. NOTES:
The
troubleshooting steps listed above should resolve your issue. If you
have completed all of the steps and the issue is not resolved, service
may be required.
When shipping the computer for repair, include all notes of the LED status that display during troubleshooting.
[[DAPC Direct Accessories and Parts Center]] If all the above troubleshooting steps fails, then you will have to ship the Computer to San Diego Service Center.
Probably a power issue. Your new computer has less extra power capacity and the external drive is pulling from the USB port power.
What you need is a USB hub with an AC adapter that powers the hub and any devices that are connected to it from the external AC power adapter and NOT from the USB bus. In other words look for an external power adapter that plugs into the wall as well as into the USB port. Don't get a recharger for an iPOD as that will not do you any good. And don't get a hub that says "powered" or "external power" that does not have an AC power adapter because it is still sucking power off of the USB port.
Try shopping for a D-Link DUB-H4 High Speed USB 2.0 4-Port Hub. It is a good choice if you are not going to plug any USB 1.1 devices into it. Read the reviews for any device you choose.
What kind of response do you get when you remove all SODIMM modules and try to start the computer?
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