Decoy arm comes off when power is turned on

You must remove the wiper arm to make sure the serrations on both the arm and where it mounts to are not damaged. Turn on the wipers and see if the nub that the wiper arm mounts to is moving.

If it isn't, there is a mechanism called the Wiper Transmission. It is located in the cowl at the bottom of the windshield. The device has a number of arms. The arm that connects the right side to the transmission is off. This is usually the fault of a small round plastic piece at the end of the arm. Simply putting it back on is nit recommended because it will probably fall off again. This plastic piece is attainable at most good auto parts places.

Basic check. Open hoop, turn on the car to normal tempature.
-Ask a person to help you drive but do not drive. "Apply emergency brake and Just shift to Drive and Reverse. So watch the engine .
It twists badly or not? If just little. the engine mount is okay .
If it twist a lot.>>> Replace the engine mount. (Check for transmission mount too)

Good luck.

Mai Lor

I replaced both lower control arms on my 03' Escape last night, it took about 1.5 hours/side. A second set of hands is helpful. The only difficulty was the pass. side ball joint bolt and nut were seized and stripped while attempting to remove. I had to air chisel the nut off but would have used hack saw if necessary.
I had bad ball joints and the control arm mounts and bushings appeared corroded and worn. On many messageboards I found debates about replacing the ball joints only or the whole control arm. I felt full arm replacement made the most sense. It is assembled with the bushings and ball joint in place. I bought Moog units from Rockauto for @ 77/pc. that allow for greasing the ball joint. I also bought new body bolts from the dealer at 20$/pc., since I was concerned about corrosion.
I have found varying processes for removing. The following worked for me.
1. Sprayed three bolt areas with PB thrust(penetrant) a few days ahead and soaked again the day before. I am in WNY and corrosion is a big problem. I dreaded breaking off one of the main bolts in the body.
2. Jack up, support vehicle properly (2 jack stands), I pulled the plastic underbody splash shields just enough to get better access. They were 10mm some broke off while removing.
3. Started removing main control arm bolts. The rear bolt came out easily on both sides using 1/2 in. breaker bar and 19mm? socket. The front horizontal bolt (15mm)made alot of noise coming out. I worked it back and forth and sprayed penetrant as I removed it. The driver side had me worried I was gonna snap it but no problems. The end threads corrode and as they remove through the body nut threads there is alot of resistance.
4. Remove ball joint nut and bolt(15mm). See above note about having to cut off nut. Once the bolt is removed, alot of online how tos mention joint pullers and other specialized tools. I just pried out the control arm from the body (to give the joint a better angle to the knuckle). I put a pry bar between the pinch joint of the knuckle and the ball joint. Then rap the control arm with a hammer while prying and the joint falls right out. A little spray penetrant helps too.
5. To reassemble:
A. Place rear mount of control arm in place and get bolt started.
B. Place Front mount in place. One side we had to pry forward in the rear mount area to get front in place, the other side went in no trouble. Start bolt here too.
C. Angle ball joint to where you think it lines up best with pinch bolt of knuckle. Get it started and we used a rubber mallet to somewhat gently persuade it into place. Once it was lined up we rapped the joint area while shaking the knuckle/strut and it pops right into place. Line up groove of ball joint with bolt hole. Start bolt and nut. My bolts were facing forward so I replaced them in the same way they came out. Torqued to 52 ft./lbs
6. Torqued front bolt to 150 ft/lbs and the rear bolt to 85 ft./lbs. There is a torque diagram I found online showing the control arm and giving these specs.
7. Install grease fitting, grease joints and tie rod end while in there.
8. Pop plastic splash shields back in place and rebolt.
9. Finish up,schedule an alignment, have a beer and feel good you saved about 400$ or more.

Hello there, the arm keeps falling loose because the bolt which is supposed to tighten it from the inside might have fallen of as a result of continuous vibration from use of the machine or the lever mechanism which holds it in place has gotten slack or disconnected from its actual spot on the lever.
Check the adjuster for a bolt which is meant to come with it if it is still in place tighten it with either the screwdriver or spanner whichever is appropriate. If this is not the case then the lever behing the adjuster is what needs to be set properly to hold the adjuster in place.
Hope this solution has been helpful?
Thank you for visiting FixYa.

There are only two types of dovetail bars and saddles. A "Vixen style" and a "Losmandy style". One can be mistaken for the other. You probably have a Vixen style. tighten both knobs and you should be OK. Many dovetail bars have a screw hole in the end to place a bolt as a safety device if the bar should slip on the saddle -- the bolt would catch it and prevent the scope from falling off.

There should be a small screw in each of the arms that secure the towel bar to the wall mounts. You will need to loosen each of these to remove the towel bar from the wall and to release the mounting bracket which has pulled free. To repair you need to puchase a larger size moly plug, toggle mount or other suitable hardware to secure the mounting bracket to the sheetrock wall (should not have pulled free is screwed in to the stud). Once you secure the mounting bracket then you are able to re-install the towel bar by placing the arms over the mounting brackets and tightening the small screws on each arm of the towel bar.

Here are a couple of videos which should help you undesrtand how towel bars are installed. Hope this is helpful. (do not delete) Here is a couple of videos that should help understand how towel bars

Removing the Ball Joint Step 1 Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel assembly with the ball joint you need to replace. Do not remove the lug nuts.
Step 2 Set the transmission in neutral (manual) or park (automatic) and raise the wheel off the ground using a floor jack. Then support the car on a jack stand.
Step 3 Chock the rear wheels and apply the parking brake.
Step 4 Remove the wheel lugs and the wheel assembly.
Step 5 Remove the mounting nut and dished washer that secure the stabilizer bar to the control arm. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 6 Unscrew and remove the mounting bolt and nut holding the inner side of the control arm to the car's body. This will relieve the tension on the stabilizer bar. Use a wrench to hold the mounting bolt as you unscrew the nut with a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 7 Unscrew the bolt on the steering knuckle that holds the control-arm ball joint to the knuckle. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 8 Spread the steering knuckle joint that holds the control-arm ball joint to the knuckle. Use a large screwdriver or pry bar. Then separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Step 9 Pull the control arm from the stabilizer bar.
Step 10 Remove the stabilizer bar spacer from the control arm and keep it in a secure place. You will need to use it on the new control-arm ball joint assembly.
Installing the Ball Joint Step 1 Insert the new control-arm ball joint stud into the steering knuckle joint. As you look through the mounting bolt hole on the steering knuckle, align the notch on the ball joint stud with the hole. Insert a new ball joint mounting bolt and start a new nut on the bolt. Tighten the nut.
Step 2 Mount the stabilizer bar spacer in the control arm, then insert the stud bolt at the end of the stabilizer bar into the control arm mounting hole and spacer.
Step 3 Set the other end of the control arm in its mounting position and insert the mounting bolt. Then start the mounting nut on the bolt by hand.
Step 4 Hold the head of the mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the car's body using a wrench, then tighten the nut.
Step 5 Secure the stabilizer bar to the control arm with the dished washer and mounting nut. Tighten the nut.
Step 6 Install the wheel assembly and lugs. Tighten the lugs with the lug wrench just enough to hold the wheel assembly firmly in place.
Step 7 Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lugs.
Step 8
Remove the chocks from the rear wheels.

1995-2005 Models NOTE: The following procedure requires the use of the torsion bar unloader tool No. J-36202 or equivalent.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the transmission shield, if equipped.
3. Install a torsion bar unloader tool to relax the tension on the torsion bar adjusting arm screw; record the number of turns necessary to properly install the tool. Remove the adjusting screw and the unloader tool.
4. Unfasten the lower link mount nut from one side, then disengage the torsion bars. NOTE: Note the direction of the forward end and side of the torsion bar being removed
   
5. Remove the lower link nut from the opposite side.
6. Remove the lower link mount, upper link mount nut, upper link mount and then unfasten the torsion bar from the frame.

To Install:

1. Install the torsion bar and support.
2. Install the upper link mount and mount nut.
   • Tighten the nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) on 1995-96 models and 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) on 1997 and later models.
3. Place a jack under the torsion bar to release tension, then install the lower link mount bushing and nut.
   • Tighten the nut to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) on 1995 models, 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) on 1996-98 models and 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1999 and later models.
4. Install the torsion bar unloader tool and tighten the tool against the adjusting arm the same number turns recorded earlier, then remove the tool. This loads the torsion bars.
5. Install the transmission shield, if removed.
6. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
7. Check and adjust the Z height as outlined in the wheel alignment portion of this section.

Your old sway bar made of tubular steel. New sway bar made from solid steel. You have a frame under engine the sway bar attaches too. This frame also supports your engine and trans mounts. Follow frame and there are 4 bolts securing same. Mechanic I watched supported engine underneath. Loosen back bolts though not removed. (please note sway bar has arrow that bar can only go in one direction) This maybe your problem. Attach bar to frame and fitting's. Best if you raise front end and remove both tires. Good luck

Turn off fan, then check to see that all of the blade mounting screws are tight. (check blade to blade arm and blade arm to fan body screws/mounting mechs.) If none are loose, you can purchase a blade balancing kit from most hardware stores, including Home Depot and Lowes. Let us know if this helps or the cure you come up with.