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Kathy Peters Posted on Jan 15, 2014

Trying to quilt on my Hinterberg. First the thread kept breaking. Made some tension adjustments, now I am skipping stitches

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bonbon930

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  • Posted on Jan 26, 2014
bonbon930
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Possible problems
1) too thick for the feed dog to move the fabric forward need; lighter tension
2) are the upper and lower threads the same kind of thread?
3) is the thread feeding properly from above? sometimes the spool can snag the thread causing the tension to jump and skip stitches

3 Related Answers

bargainbox

Hassy

  • 1388 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 26, 2008

SOURCE: thread breaking and terrible looping on backside of quilt.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

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Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 15, 2009

SOURCE: skipping stitches

Rule of thumb: Fast needle, slow hands. This should help. GiGi

Susan Ellen

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 21, 2009

SOURCE: skipping stithes

Try practicing on a test piece before moving on to the quilt. Batik fabric is beautiful! I would check the thread size and needle. I tried quilting with invisible thread and had the same problem. The minute I changed to 50 wt.thread and a new needle the problem disappeared. I've found that 40 or 50 wt. thread works best on my Janome.

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Related Questions:

1helpful
1answer

Where can I get directions for free motion quilting on my triptonic 2030. I am having trouble with the tension and bobbin stitches are awful.

For FMQ, make sure you have a darning or FMQ foot for your machine. You must use this foot because it is shorter than other presser feet so it does not press down on the fabric. You need to be able to move the fabric freely under the presser foot. When threading your machine, ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot so the thread will seat properly in the tension disk. The presser foot is ALWAYS lowered when FMQing or the tension will not work. To set the tension, test on some sample quilt sandwiches made with the same materials you will be quilting. Be sure to use a brand new quilting, microtex, or top stitch needle in your machine. Skipped stitches generally indicate the needle is dull, bent, or otherwise damaged. Test your stitching on the test sandwiches and adjust the top tension until the top and bobbin threads meet in the middle of the fabric (Increasing the top tension pulls the bobbin thread up. Loosening the top tension allows the bobbin thread to pull the top thread down.) Depending on your thread weight, you may need to adjust the bobbin tension, but do that ONLY if you cannot get the top thread to pull the bobbin thread up into the sandwich. (However, remember that if you adjust the bobbin case, it may not work properly when you go back to regular sewing.) I actually bought a separate bobbin case that I have adjusted only for FMQing on my machine and I use it only for that purpose.

Understanding Thread Tension on Your Sewing Machine

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I am making a quilt on Husqvarna Lily 530 and cannot get my upper/lower thread equal for outlining design in quilt..book doesnot help me....any suggestions for stitch setting

Tension for stitching a quilt sandwich is tricky. It helps if you use the same color for top and bobbin thread,. If your quilting thread is not the same weight (either heavier or lighter) than thread used for regular sewing, then the bobbin tension may need to be adjusted. My quilting thread is lighter weight so I have a separate bobbin case whos tension has been adjusted specifically for quilting. The goal is have both threads meet in the middle of the sandwich. If the top thread is showing under the sandwich, you probably need to tighten the top tension so it will pull the bobbin thread up into the sandwich. Do the reverse if the bobbin thread shows on top.

It may also make a difference by changing the type and size needle. I tend to prefer a top-stitch needle. An embroidery or microtex may also work for you.

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Tension troubles on your quilting machine Try these tricks

5 Free Motion Quilting Problems and How to Fix Them
0helpful
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My machine is adding loops under my stitches when I try to stitch a straight stitch, I am trying to machine stitch a quilt top!

Quilting is a bit more finicky than regular sewing. Be sure to ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot when threading the top thread. FWIW, I use a separate bobbin case for FMQ that I have tightened the tension to keep the bobbin thread from coming to the top of the sandwich, but I tend to use a finer thread for quilting so adjusting the bobbin takes care of it. In your case, however, it sounds like the top thread is staying under the fabric. I would try tightening the top tension. Also, install a brand new needle--a top stitch, embroidery, or microtex needle seem to work well for me. Test well on a sandwich made of the same fabric and batting and get it adjusted well before sewing on your quilt. Sometimes sewing speed will affect stitches under the fabric, or even on top.

5 Free Motion Quilting Problems and How to Fix Them

Correcting Sewing Machine Tension for Free Motion Quilting NQC

LOOPS Tension or Speed

https://www.generations-quilt-patterns.com/machine-quilting-thread.html

https://www.generations-quilt-patterns.com/sewing-machine-tension.html

https://www.generations-quilt-patterns.com/machine-quilting-tension-problems.html

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0helpful
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CANT QUILT WITH MY JUKI TENSION PROBLEMS

Okay, you've tried a lot of things. The question is this: is the thread snapping (where abouts in the path), or is it shredding at the needle? Here are a few more:

Remove the top thread, ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot, and rethread from the beginning.
Try different thread--perhaps a polyester thread like Isacord or Aurafil. (AVOID old or bargain bin thread.)
Try a different kind of needle (brand new needle!)--like a top-stitch, microtex, or embroidery. The top stitch needle has a larger scarf that will better protect the thread if shredding is the issue. (I use a special bobbin case that I've increased the tension for Isacord thread and I use the same thread in top and bobbin.) I also decrease the top tension a tad so the bobbin thread will not pull to the top. You may need to install brand-new needles several times on one quilt when they get dull.
Usually an 80 or 90 needle will work for FMQ through a fabric/batting sandwich.
Check that the needle's eye is the appropriate size for the thread (also a cause of shredding thread).
Set the upper tension at the midway point perhaps a bit looser for FMQ (this tension will probably need to be tweaked for your particular machine due to wear and age).
Use an FMQ foot and drop the feed dogs. A Supreme Slider (avlb on the internet) is very helpful in helping move the quilt while doing FMQ.
Work at a moderate but steady pace. I find a faster speed while FMQ gets me into trouble...like spots I can't get out of, overlapping stitches, or outside the quilt edge.

FWIW, I still get some skipped stitches with FMQ. Usually, it happens when I move the fabric too fast, especially around a curve. I have a tendency of speeding up while going around a curve that will cause skipped stitches or eyelashing.

I'm also wondering if there is something to do with the fabric and/or batting you are using...like is it Batik? Batik is very tightly woven and presents some particular challenges. The type of batting could be more dense, making it harder for the needle to penetrate the sandwich. Also, pulling or stretching the fabric can cause skipped stitches.

Basic Maintenance Tension Skipped Stitches

Here What to Do if Your Sewing Machine is Skipping Stitches

10 reasons for skipped stitches

If you see no improvement in your machine's stitching, you may want to have it serviced.

Good luck!
0helpful
1answer

Janome 1600P skipped stitches

Normal top tension is 3-4; normal bobbin tension (iirc) is 35 grams.
I'm betting, though, that a new needle, right way around and the correct size, would solve your skipping problems.
1helpful
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I have a pfaff grand quilter and have used it to do six quilts and has worked great but the last quilt i did the top thread kept breaking every few inches i have tried everything but in the end took it in...

I had a similar problem with the long stitches. One of the encoders for the stitch regulator was not turning all the time when I moved the machine. My dealer gave me a new one and now the machine works fine. It could also be your cable from the encoders to the machine. If the wires (very fragile) get broken, either the machine won't sew when you go side to side or back and forth, or it will make the intermittently long stitches you mentioned.

It's important to have the foot raised when you thread the machine. If you have it down, the thread won't get caught between the tension disks, and it will be very hard to get consistent stitches.
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Might be that you need to lower the tensions quite a bit, you'll have to juggle with top and bottom tensions though, and experiment for just this operation with the Sensormatic.
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My friend and I both have the Juki 98Q but on different frames - we were both having problems (needles breaking, thread getting tangled) we removed the thin metal thing inside the bobbin case and have had no problems since (over a year now!).
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Skipped stitches

You will need to take your machine to a dealer and have it adjusted. Machines should be cleaned and serviced at least once a year. Needles should be replaced when dull. Skipping stitches can also be from using the wrong kind of needle. When quilting on cotton, use sharp needles, when sewing on knits use a ball needle. You can use a universal needle but they aren't perfect and will cause skipping on some fabrics.
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