Question about New Bright Toys
Everything else ok
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The fuel gauge is really two parts. You have a guage and a sending unit. You must have voltage going to the unit as well. On most models, the wires that supply voltage to the gauge run upwards through a small tube in the tank for the bottom of the tank. There is a connector at the bottom of the tank in most cases.
Using a VOM (volt/ohm meter) unplug the connector beneath the tank and check for voltage with the ignition switch on. You should have approx. 12 volts. Once you've finished this test, turn the switch back to the off position.
Next, you will have to check the sending unit. Remove the gauge from it's rubber gasket that holds it in position on the tank. Carefully work the gauge up and out of the rubber sleeve because the wires are very short. Once you have the gauge out, you'll have to check the resistance of the sending unit with the tank nearly full and then again with the tank nearly empty. If the resistance of the sending unit changes, the problem is probably the gauge itself. If the resistance does not change, the problem is more than likely with the sending unit. Check the sending unit for a good ground as well.
The sending unit is held in the tank by five or six small screws. Remove these screws and lift the unit slightly. Do not attempt to remove the sending unit with the fuel tanks full and the bike on the side stand. Fuel will be all the way to the top of the tank and will spill out when you attempt to remove the sending unit. While lifting the unit, turn it working the float arm out of the tank. Be very careful not to bend the float arm. Once you have the unit out of the tank, you can check the unit's resistance again. When you remove the sending unit, always replace the gasket that goes beneath the unit.
Be very careful, you are working with gasoline and expolsive fumes. Do not smoke or have any open flames near.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.
To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.
Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.
Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.
Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.
Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
on the right side follow the hose at the bottom of oil tank to where it hitches to the frame and on the bottom of frame you will find the drain bolt.
Posted on Mar 28, 2010
The rear brake system consist of a rear brake master cylinder, a metal line that has a tee in it for the rear brake switch, a rubber brake hose and a rear caliper.
I'm not sure what you are wanting to know. The rear brake caliper is held into the rear caliper bracket by two bolts. Remove the bolts and the rear caliper will lift off of the caliper bracket. With the brake caliper off the bracket, notice the position of the pads and especially the stainless steel anti-rattle clips. When you replace the pads and clips, make sure you get them in correctly.
Now, you'll have to compress the piston back into the caliper. To do this use either a large pair of slip joint pliers or a large C-clamp. Use a rag or something to protect the paint on your caliper. Carefully slid the caliper back down over the pads while not disturbing them. Install the two bolts and torque them to 25 foot pounds.
You brake systems, both the front and the rear, take type DOT 5 brake fluid as best as I can remember. Harley has changed the type of brake fluid but I cannot keep up with the year model. It should tell you on the tops of the master cylinder.
Extreme care must be taken whenever working on brakes. Make sure they work properly. Failure to test the brakes for proper operation prior to riding the bike can result in sever injury or death.
Posted on Apr 09, 2010
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