My 5 year old Mitsubishi WS-55819 projection TV has a power problem. When I press the power button it turns on for about 2 seconds and then turns itself off. The picture doesn't come onto the screen as the power cuts off so quickly. I opened the back and there is a small black diode type thing (possibly a relay) on the middle PC board towards the back that clicks when it turns on and off. Someone suggested a leak from the 3 bulbs could be a cause but I cannot see any leaking substances anywhere. Does anyone have a suggestion to figure out what's wrong? I don't have electrical test equipment for troubleshooting. Thank you... I have a Mitsubishi WS-55819 - does not turn on - have a code of 2-2 - removed center PC board - going to have the IC's changed (STK392-570)- checked fuses F9A04 & 5 (5 amp pico fuse )they are blown changing them also - should I check anything else?? You have been a HUGE help already and thank you very much - Please let me know. Rob
No, that'll do it. Once you've changed em you'll know right away if somethin isn't right. But take faith and fire that puppy up. If the pix is good you did good. If something is amiss. I'd be happy to walk you through it. My money is on you though.
The audio output IC is on that board you changed and the solder connections on it are often cracked in shipment. It is labeled IC3E01 and his mounted to a heat sink behind the large heatsink the convergence outputs are mounted to. You just have to repull the board and locate that IC and resolder it. I have seen this before in my own work.
Just applying heat to the pins will not work well. There is no flux left over to get the solder to stick properly. Just acquire some rosin core solder, and reapply the solder to each pin making sure you don't bridge any solder to an adjacent pin. Not that hard to do with rosin core solder.
For what you need just get the cheapest soldering pencil around. I use a temperature controlled soldering station but I use it everyday, and it cost around $175. You should be able to get away with a 25 Watt pencil style for less than $15.
Well, you are into the ugly land all of us technicians are very familiar with. You have done everything correctly but something is not right. It sounds like a ground problem somewhere associated with that audio output IC. All I can say at this point is to go over that board with a fine toothed comb and look for cracks or improper connections between that board and the others it is connected to.
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Hi - I actually ordered a new circut board from Mitsubishi for $150.00 (I had to go through many channels to get them to sell it to me)- I installed it and the picture is great but now the sound is crackly and fisrt from the right- then the left - I tap on the IC heatsink and it makes it better & worse or none at all - now I just have left sound that sometimes crackles. I am almost ready for a new TV, if I could only afford it.
I Found it - what is the best way to resolder it - just apply the iron to each pin? or? I am not a very expieranced at soldering - that is why I bought a new board. Thank You , Rob
I will pick up the solder and practice on my old board. Hope to do it tomorrow- will let you know - do you have any favorites as far as irons go? or as to a solder brand - I will probably go to Radio Shack, Rob
THank You - I will let you know how I make out when I fix it- again Thank You for your time Rob
HELP- I resoldered all of the audio IC ( IC3E01) pins including the vidio conv. ones - I still a really bad crackle when I touch ,tap the Vidio conv. heat sink - I ran the set for a second without the heat sink and the same thing.I also checked the speaker wire conn., cable - all good. What is next??
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