Two wires need a home

Sounds like you have a seized passenger side caliper assembly. May need to be replaced, in which case you are better off replacing both front calipers as a set.

It sounds like you have a bad dimmer switch. The dimmer switch is located at the left floor pan area. Your husband can disconnect the connector and use a jumper wire to get the headlamps working long enough to get home. Then, when it is more convenient, replace the switch.

Put some oil in the fan motor or check if any wires may hitting in the fan while running

I would suggest you to check the following

1) Carburetter (Flooding/Linkages/Overflow/Butterfly Vanes)
i) Air-Filter Assy. open and clean, check for leaks/holes
ii) Fuel Delivery System
iii) Fuel Tank for rust/sediments
iv) The grime on the carb can be from regular running and if the carb floods, then gummy petrol smelling deposit.
v) Also Check the Distributor Advance/******.
vi) If there is grime inside the carb, then the air-filter has a leak.

2) For the transfer-case
2A) Check if the oil on the T-Case is gear-oil (sulphur smell) or black/brown Engine Oil.

2B)If it is Engine Oil then you may have a problem with your
i) Crank Case

ii) PCV Valve - Postive Crankcase Ventilation Valve

iii) Main Bearing Seals, this is the worst case, indicated by the clutch becoming slippery i.e engine oil on the clutch pate & Assy.

2A ii) Check and clean the Breather Plugs. If the Plugs are blocked, then while running, the oil heats up and the hot air/gasses cannot escape, thereby creating a High Pressure inside the T-Case and vent through the oil-seals or weaker joints (sealing).

iii) After Cleaning the Breather if there is Gear Oil on the T-Case after running, service the T-Case.

Check the wire harness on the transfer case to make sure it's still plugged in. Check the selector switch in the dash. Check the hub sensor wire harnesses on the front wheels.
Check for error codes through OBD-II connector under the dash.
Good luck.

yes it would be a display card error..

The manual is Here:
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socka/nforce2/a7n8x-e/e1876_a7n8x-e_deluxe.pdf

However, wires to the case are specified by the case maker (you did not specify). Just about all of them mark the connectors on the wire ends with their functions. Just match with the manual's jumper description.

Don't forget it is about pairs. You never gonna see a pair {Red with Yellow}

RED = +
Black = ground (minus)

yellow = +
white = ground (minus)

green=+
black=ground (minus)

Hi, the wiring must loose around the key switch, it might be a case of taking the tiller off and resoldering the wires onto the key switch. It not a major repair , just a case of getting the tiller panel apart and locating the wires to the switch.

Regards
GeWiz.

If the water is appearing in the front of the washer, you may have a leak in the drain pump. The link I'm posting below gives step-by-step instructions on how to replace the drain pump.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r397092-replacing_water_pump


If it is not the drain pump, at least this gives you the necessary instruction on how to access the cabinet interior to inspect it properly. A whining noise could be something caught in the pump, or something stuck between the wash tub and outer basket. In order to run the washer with the case removed, you will need to by-pass the lid switch. this accomplished by jumpering the two BLACK wires on the lid switch connector at the timer. CAUTION: Unplug the washer before connecting the jumper wires. Then, plug back in and start the washer. Fill on the lowest setting and look for leaks.

NOTE: The drain pump is not serviceable and must be replaced if leaking.

I hope this helps you. Let me know if you have further questions.