How do I remove circuit board assembly

I had the same problem with a GE Profile Series 30 induction cooktop model number PHP9030DJ1BB. The problem was with one of the circuit boards which had blown the top of a capacitor. The good news is that you can buy all three of the circuit boards as an assembly for less than $50 from several online parts houses. The original assembly had been superseded by part number WB27X27843. This part lists for $456.75 on the GE website but many other places sell it for less than $50 for some reason. I purchased one and installed it and it fixed my problem. It is not easy to replace but it is doable. Shut off the circuit breaker, remove the straps holding the cooktop to the cutout, gently push from underneath on a corner to break the top loose from the counter. You will probably need to unwire the conduit then remove the cooktop and turn it over. Remove the screws around the perimeter and lift off the metal cover. Mark the power wires so that you know where they go back and take pictures of things as you go to aid in reassembly. Turn the top over and remove the screws that hold the circuit board assembly in place. I will be necessary to remove a couple of burners in order to access some screws. There are two long oval cutouts filled with white insulation that you can lift up to unscrew the burner wires and control wires from the circuit boards. Again it is a good idea to label them. Remove the circuit board assembly. Remove the fan from the old circuit board assembly and mount it to the new assembly. Install the ring gasket that comes with the new boards and reinstall the new assembly. Plug the wires back into their respective places, reattach the burners and reassemble.
If you wish, you can look at all of the capacitors and see if you can find a bulged one which you could replace but for $50 you would probably be better off buying a new assembly. If you want to try replacing the capacitor, it is a 10uf 400 volt can type but if that does not work then you will be without a cooktop for however long it takes to order the circuit board assembly. I got mine at https://www.partselect.com/PS11766885-GE-WB27X27843-INDUCTION-Assembly-KIT.htm GE WB27X27843 INDUCTION Assembly KIT PartSelect

Dear Friend,

If you are really sounds good in electrical wiring circuits, then you can proceed by buying the turning signal flasher, and you can open the headlight assembly and you can able to see the existing flasher, and remove the item carefully without damaging the existing circuits and replace it, as same as before, before mantling the head lamp assembly please switch on your bike to engage the battery system to bike wiring circuit, now try to the indicator switch left and right and make sure that indicator lights or blinking in the standard time interval, if its working properly congrats yourself, otherwise please recheck the connections, also the wire quality.

Check the fan on the condensor, it is likely overheating.

Or you have a sensor / or circuit board problem.

Here is a quick list.

www.fitnessrepairparts.com/equipment/Select/10131/Cybex/BM1000-BM3000-BikeMax-S-N--640000-Y02Tectrix Bikemax 3000

This is a driver circuit board for an Onkyo power amplifier model Grand Integra M-506RS. It is unlikely that this assembly can be found, amd I suggest that the existing assembly be repaired.

There are 2 screws holding the tail lamp assembly to the bed. Open your tail gate and you will see them. Once the 2 screws are removed, there are 2 clips that hold the outer part of the lamp assembly. Pull rearward FIRMLY to disengage the clips. Be careful not to twist sideways or you will break the clips/pins. After the lamp assembly is disengaged from the bed, you will see thecircuit board in the back of it. Remove the 2 screws in the circuit board and remove it to get to the bulbs.

NOTE: Circuit board failures are VERT COMMON on these vehicles. If replacing the bulb does not get your lights working, chances are pretty good that you will have to replace the circuit board. (See pictures below.)

You will find the correct battery for model 8894 at shaveroutlet.com. See link below

http://shaveroutlet.com/shaver-replacement-parts/norelco-philips-liion-battery-cell-for-select-models-p-380.html

To replace, you will need to remove the back cover by removing the two screws. You may need to extend the long hair trimmer to get to the second screw. Take off back cover to access inside. You can unsolder the battery from the circuit board but for easier replacement, it is sometimes suggested that you use a modified installation technique. This is to break the tabs off of the old battery with small needle nose pliers rather than unsoldering it from the circuit board. This allows the old battery to be removed but leaves the tabs attached to the circuit board. You can then solder the tabs from the new battery to the old existing tabs

If the shaver still works but just will not hold a charge as long as it should, you can fix this by replacing the batteries. If the shaver is dead and will not run and the green charging light no longer illuminates when you plug it in, you will need to change the whole circuit board.
You will find the batteries and the circuit board with batteries at shaveroutlet.com. You can order which you require by viewing the links below

http://shaveroutlet.com/shaver-replacement-parts/shaver-replacement-battery-aa-nimh-p-108.html

http://shaveroutlet.com/shaver-replacement-parts/braun-printed-circuit-board-with-batteries-p-106.html

To open the shaver, you will need to pry out the two round plastic screw covers on the bottom then remove the screws underneath. You can then remove the outer case by sliding it down and off of the shaver bode. Then remover the black plastic cover inside to access the circuit board and batteris.
If replacing the entire circuit board, you will simply lift it out and replace. If just replacing the batteries, it is suggested that you use a modified installation technique. This is to break the tabs off of the old batteries rather than unsoldering them from the circuit board. This allows the old batteries to be removed but leaves the tabs attached to the circuit board. You can then solder the tabs from the new batteries to the old existing tabs

Go search for this ebay item 350138808473 and purchase the flash assembly for the m407. Other options is to search broken m305, m307, or m407 cameras (the components are interchangeable) that have working flashes. The batteries I suggest purchasing new rechargeables batteries and try a fresh charged pack. It may not be a bad idea to also purchase a AA battery recharger. You will need precision screw-driver set and electrical tape.

There are six screws on the outside of the case. Remove the six screws and gently pry the case open and remove the camera from the case. I found that placing my thumbs around the Tripod stand and opening as if it were a **** works.

The next step is to remove the LCD and the button board. What holds them in place are two small screws next to the bottom of the LCD. Remove the screws and small aluminum frame around the LCD. Using a small flat-head precision screw driver, gently pry the LCD loose from the base that is soldered to camera main circuit board. The LCD should be hanging by the ribbon cable. Using the precision screw driver, gently loosen the prongs that hold the LCD in place. After the LCD has been remove, remove the button board, which should be loose (it snaps into the main circuit board and it is taped to the flash assembly. Try to have as much of the tape on the button board after removal. You can use packaging tape to replace the tape.

WARNING: The flash assembly contains a 330 V capacitor. The flash assembly is covered with black electrical tape to prevent accidental contact to any expose metal. Contacting the metal will give you a good size shock.

The next step is to loosen the flash assembly from the camera. In the back of the camera, underneath the LCD and button board, there are three black screws that holds the battery chamber in place. Remove these screws, but the chamber is also screwed the flash assembly. Turn the camera around. You will see that there are three items attached to wires that you will have to either pry or snap off. The first is the switch by the battery door. The next is the speaker that is snapped into the assembly. The last is a disk that is sticked to the batter chamber (via an adhesive) Gently pry each of these loose (using a small flat-head precision screw-driver) and leave each component hanging from the wires.

There are two screws that attach the battery chamber to the flash assembly. You will need to look for theses screws underneath the black tape. The first one is easy because it the edge of the assembly. The second one is located in the middle of assembly and you will have to lift the tape to expose the screw. There is a third screw that holds the small valance of the flash bulb. This can stay on. Once the screws have been removed, the battery chamber should dangle out. (PS. This exposes the SD card slot if you need to straighten out bent copper prongs that prevents your card from being read.)

The assembly is plugged in to the main circuit board. This is located behind the capacitor (which looks like a battery.) Special care is require to wiggle or pry the open the plug to avoid damaging the plug from the flash assembly or from the main circuit board. I usually sit the camera on the table and stick the precision screw-driver in that area behind the capacitor and carefully pull the screw driver up. Once the flash assembly is loose, it should plob over to the overside, being held together by a copper foil that has been soldered to both the flash assembly and main circuit board. Try to leave as much of the copper foil behind with main circuit board as you tear the foil to fully remove the flash assembly.

Plug the good flash assembly into the slot on the main circuit board. Tuck the copper foil back underneath the tape. Screw the battery chamber back into place. Tuck back the battery door switch, speaker and disk back into proper location. Replace any black tape with electrical tape. Assemble the button board and LCD back into the main circuit board. Screw back in the alumnimum frame. Put the main camera inside the back half of the camera plastic case. Put the battery door in place (this may fallen off when removing the case. Snap in the front case and screw the case shut. Test the camera for functionality.