Fuse location right burners not working

Based on your question that the right front burner of your Schott Ceran glass cooktop is not working, here are some steps you can try to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the power supply: Make sure that the cooktop is properly connected to a power source and that the circuit breaker or fuse is not tripped. If the circuit breaker is tripped, reset it and try turning on the burner again.
2. Check the burner control switch: The burner control switch regulates the power to the burner. Check if the switch is loose, damaged, or defective. You can test the switch for continuity with a multimeter to determine if it is functioning properly.
3. Check the heating element: If the burner control switch is not the problem, the issue may be with the heating element. Check the element for visible damage, such as cracks, burn marks, or discoloration. If you see any damage, the element may need to be replaced.
4. Check the wiring: Check the wiring connections between the burner control switch and the heating element. If any of the connections are loose or damaged, this may be causing the issue.
5. Test with a different burner: If you have multiple burners on your cooktop, try testing the right front burner with a different control switch or heating element to determine if the issue is with the burner or another component.

The above are basic means of troubleshooting, the following below will add more to the solution above;

Check the control board: The control board is responsible for sending power to the heating elements. Check the control board for any signs of damage or burning, and test it for continuity using a multimeter.

Check the thermal fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety device that cuts off power to the heating elements if they overheat. Check the thermal fuse with a multimeter to see if it has blown. If it has, you will need to replace it.

Check the switch relay: The switch relay is another component that can cause the burner to not work. Check the switch relay for any signs of damage, and test it with a multimeter to see if it is functioning properly.

Test the voltage supply: Use a multimeter to test the voltage supply to the burner. If there is no voltage, this could indicate a problem with the control board, thermal fuse, or switch relay.

Check for loose connections: Inspect all wiring connections between the control board, switch relay, and heating element. Loose or damaged connections can cause the burner to not work.

Check fuses. Burners are usually fused in pairs. Probably 2 fuses since 220V.(one for each 110 side of feed).

Hi,

This is caused by a faulty sensor that is located between the burner element and the top. To replace the faulty part you will need to uninstall the cooktop and remove the glass top. The sensor is a rod a little smaller than a pencil that you will see right on top of that burner.

If you choose not to replace the sensor it will not cause any issues other than you will have to live with that light constantly on and you will know when the top is hot for that element.

judging by your post I can only assume that the range is gas. If so then the left and right side are controlled by two separate ig-niter boxes and one of them have failed. In order to repair it you will need to locate the ignition module's. They are usually located under the plate that houses the knob assembly. To determine witch one it is you will need to un plug the range and disconnect only one of the burners. Plug back in the range and try to fire one of the burners that works and see if it is not working now. If it is then you have un plugged the correct one. Again un plug the range and finish the removal. Sense this is Jenn-air then you will need to order the new one from them. Hope this helps. Good luck.

go to searsparts.com could be switch or burner or high temp fuse under glass

The switch for the burner is bad and needs to be replaced.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

electricians do a couple of years learning the trade
DIY people seldom get it right and generally hurt themselves or others by not getting it right
you say you installed the fans and all worked well but the cook top is now blowing the circuit breaker What caused the light switch to short
it is logical to say that somewhere in your wiring you have used a power or ground circuit that should not be used and that is causing overload or ground leakage problems
before you try fixing the problem , you have to know exactly what happened and to get that information you will have to get in an accredited electrician to explain what was done wrong
sorry that you will not appreciate the answer but there are too many people below ground because they did not recognize the simple fact that electricity and gas is not a diy domain

Sounds like the electric sending unit for the right burners is not working. Do you hear the cliking noise on the right side when you turn the knob to LITE? If not then you need to replace the electric sending unit, they are located under the knobs, they are a smal square box that goes on the switch valve rod, they have tow wires on the side, just unplug and lift, and look for greasse or anything that might interrup contact, you might be able to use the same ones, or just replace with new ones....Good Luck
Eddie Rentas
Tupper LAke NY

It sounds like the burner needs to be replaced. When they burn out sometimes they short out to ground. The cooktop will have to be removed from the counter and the glass top opened. You will probably be able to see where the element is burned out. Replace it and you should be fine. If it is too expensive to fix just disconnect the wires to the burner where they attach to the control . Then you can use the remaining burners. I really don't know what a replacement burner costs. An open coil is around $30.

You are right it is the infinate heat control. This has no thermostat. It works by letting the burner cycle on for longer periods of time on the higher settings on high it is on constantly. The contacts are probably fused inside This part shouldn't be more than $25.