Mixer wont start

The possible problems could be in no real order>>>
1. your power outlet in your house
2 the power cord to the mixer broken or shorted
3 the speed control plate inside the mixer needs adjusting or replaced
4 the carbon brushes inside the motor head of the mixer need replaced
5 the armature a motor part
6 the stator a motor part
The first four are easy fixes the last two will require a full tear down. but there are lots of things to test first. let us know.

If you have 24 VAC to the timer board and still have no display, then you need a new timer board.

The Service Manual covering mixers with the control plate can be downloaded at:

http://www.kitchenaidparts.eu/documents/pdf/service-manual/classic-svc-manual-new-email-version.pdf

Things to consider:

The brushes have a chamfer on one edge and must be oriented so that the chamfer can pass a small stop in one corner of the brush sleeve.

Are all the wires to the control board connected correctly? The board is marked for the wires colors.

There are instructions in the manual for measuring the stator coils to find out if they are OK or not.

Checking out the armature is another whole thing and you can get information on-line about this (try searching "armature testing"). I really hope that you don't need to go this far.

There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding

The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

that fault is a b_gd.there are 10 things that can cause this.1.start sw.momentary contacts not closing. 2.stop sw. contacts open. 3.bowl guard sw. open or malfunction(b_gd)displayed on timer.4.contactor 1con malfunction.5.timerboard malfunction.6.wiring incorrect from sr drive to motor or 1con.7.sr drive malfunction 8.1 con monitor from control drive disconnected from contactor coil9.encoder malfunction 10.motor malfunction. hopefully just your bowl guard switch is no good. hope this helps, dont forget to vote, monomoy

this mixer came out of a pizza hut in illnois, looks like the manufacture date is june 1994, dont forget to vote, hope this helps, monomoy

Did you solve your problem?I'm a hobart tech but havent been on this site lately.

Sounds to me like the start switch contacts are welded shut.If you have a multimeter set it to ohms,remove 1 wire from the switch,put your meter leads across the switch and if you get a reading that switch is bad.If you dont get a reading i would check the side switch on the contactor.Im a hobartt tech and repair these mixers alot.Let me know.

You will have to have the transmission serviced. sounds like the gears were ground out. you can do the service work yourself its not to difficult.

I apologize but im unable to answer yours or any others at this time.Ive been hijacked by another user on this site that is dropping my rating.I contacted [email protected] (manager) of this site about restoring my account but has yet to do so.If my request fall on deaf ears maybe if you can email him and explain that its hard to get info on any hobart products and im the only one that is a hobart tech answering questions for FREE!!As soon as this matters resolved i will continue to help people as ive been doing for a year on this site.