Keeping existing 220V for oven and getting 110V to cooktop

If you are running new wire to the cook top. You need to run 10x4 wire. The 12x4 wire is not large enough for the 220v. Also the 20 amp breaker is not large enough to run the cook top. You need to use a duel 30 amp breaker.

Good Luck and please rate 4 thumbs up for the free answer.

hello,

If the electricity is needed to ignite that cooktop, you can install power inverter from DC to AC. you can use 24 volt battery and inverted to 110V or 220V or depending on the power input of the cooktop..may this help,

melnavz

30amps at 220vac will run about 6 to 7 kilowatts, your oven is probable about 3 kilowatts.

Hi,
Yes, that runs on 110v electric...

heatman101

L1 and L2 connect to the black and red. White connects to White. Green connects to the electrical box if it is made of steel and is grounded. Otherwise the green connects to the whites

check your oven for breaker may be turned of they are normally located in the bottom lower panel or drawer section thanks from gilles

from supply
white, black - should be hot then ground

On cooktop
red, black - should be hot white - neutral then ground

If you have a volt meter measure
supply
between white - black 220v
between white or black - ground 110

cooktop
between red - black 220v
between red or black - ground or neutral 110

If the above is confirmed
connect
red (cooktop) to white(supply)
black (cooktop) to black(supply)
white (cooktop) to ground(supply)

Regards

Try looking at the junction box that it is connected to. Maybe one or more of the wires have burned off or come loose from the wire nuts. How many amps is the breaker? Most electric codes require separate circuits (Breakers) for each appliance. First turn off the breaker. There should be an outlet box of some kind on the wall or behind the cabinet. Follow the wire from the cooktop and see where it goes. Open it up and check if any wires are burnt or loose. If it was installed wrong I would change it. Most cooktops shouldn't be fused at more than 30 amps. Single ovens the same, double ovens up to 45 amps. The problem is if they used an old range outlet with 6 gauge wire and tried to connect both appliances to the same wire. This is hard to do without it coming loose.

If you are in the USA most codes require a seperate circuit for the oven and the cooktop. Most cooktops require 30 amps and at least #10 wire.

To complying with changed Codes (effective in 2002 ) regarding stoves, ovens and dryers. You will need a 120/240 volt 4 wire 40 amp and 50 amp circuit. This
Decades ago it was permitted to use a 3 wire system (having two 120 volt hots (Black and Red) and 1 combination ground/neutral wire) (green and white) to serve stoves, cooktops, ovens and dryers.
The Code change now requires all stoves and dryers in NEW construction to have the 4 wire set-up (now having two 120 volt hots, 1 white neutral and one green or bare wire ground).
Existing wiring is grand-fathered under the Code change.....I advise you to change the feed wiring over to the the 4 wire set-up...
because - as with ALL Code changes in the past...it will eventually become mandatory for all stoves, ovens and dryers as the grand-father clause drops off. By complying now...
BUT the wiring will need to change to 8/3 with ground. (having 4 wires inside one outer jacket).This is the primary reason for the Code change....to provide a greater margin of safety to the user.
I can NOT recommend the 3 wire hook-up...the 4 wire provides a seperate ground and neutral -
which makes the chance of a user shock when touching the metal frame (from an internal fault in the oven) much less likely then the old 3 wire set-up....
which did NOT have the seperate ground and neutral.
Krazytech