No output from my generator

Why a generator won't produce electricity?
After the unit is running, the generator rotational speed reaches the rated speed, the AC exciter stator excitation circuit switch is closed, the voltage regulator is raised to the maximum direction, at this time, the generator has no output voltage or the voltage is very low. That's why a generator fails to produce electricity.

Inverter Generator Benefits

• The EU3000 series generators are inverter generators. The generator features an alternator, which produced high-voltage, multi-phase AC power. This power is converted to DC power and then converted back to AC. This process is controlled by a microprocessor and is necessary to provide stable, consistent power capable of running equipment sensitive to power surges. This type of generator provides higher fuel efficiency and lower operational noise ratings in a lighter model than home and work generators produced by Honda.
  

EU3000i Handi Specifications

• The Honda EU3000i Handi is a 3,000-watt inverter generator that features wheels, folding handle and a recessed convenience light. The engine is a Honda GX160, which features a 163-cc displacement. The AC output is 120 volts, with an average rating of 2,600 watts and a maximum production of 3,000 watts. There are three receptacles to include a 20A, 125-volt duplex and a 30A, 125-volt locking plug. The DC output is 12 volts and 100 watts. The EU3000i can hold 1.56 gallons of unleaded fuel, which will provide consumers with 3.6 hours of run time at 25 percent load for 7.7 hours.
  

performance chips of BMW.

The voltage regulator for the generator is not work, replace it. Why, if there no dc voltage to excite the stator it won't any output. GB...stewbison

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. Since you did not mention the make or model number of your generator I will respond in generic terms. If your generator is at 127 volts with NO load it is adjust at the very top end of the manufacturers limits. There is a 10% tolerance so 120 VAC + 12 is 127 VAC. Under an electrical load above 500 watts the generator should drop the output voltage slightly so your generator would still be within factory limits. Personally on any generator as a repair person; I set the output voltage at 126 VAC no load so that when the user puts the generator to work the output voltage is good. If your generator is running at 127 VAC under load then you can adjust the governor screw on the governor plate CCW about 1/2 turn to drop the voltage. Without a generator model number or engine number I can not tell you exactly where the governor plate is on your engine / generator. The screw will have a lock nut that you must loosen 1/4 turn then turn the adjustment screw CCW to drop the voltage. Just make sure to re-tighten the lock nut when the adjustments are complete. Mind you by decreasing the output voltage you also drop the output freqency at the same time you decrease the output voltage. It is better to have 125 -127 VAC under a no load condition as the more electrical load you add the more voltage drop you will notice. It is best to adjust the generator to 122.5 -123 VAC under a medium load. (50% of output capacity) A bread toaster is 1400 - 1600 watts and is a good load for a 3000 watt generator. Also a good hand held hair dryer will use around 1600 watts. If you use this type of load and the voltage output is 122.5 to 123 VAC I would not adjust anything. I have been working on generators since 1970 so this is nothing new for me. I hope that you understand everything I posted. If not, feel free to ask as many questions as you wish in any future response.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Those voltage readings MAY be normal.

The AC waveform may cause your meter to read inaccurately. You would need to use a TRUE RMS meter to accurately read the voltage.

The siple meters actually read the AVERAGE voltage and then are calibrated to mulltiply it by the "form factor" for a sine wave. OFTEN these generators don't produce a clean sine wave. A square-ish wave will read higher on the garden variety meters.

Compare the brightness of a lamp comparing to when run on your utility.

The frequency depends on engine speed ... yours is running a bit fast...check it under at least half load and if off, adjust the govenor slightly.

If it's still under warranty take it back to the retailer and tell them it quit working - don't offer any other information.

If you must fix the E/G yourself - On the generator there's a cover on the back; take the cover off so that the back of the windings are exposed. You should see 4 to 6 diodes mounted to the rotor and stator...those diodes are most likely burned out because of temperature failure, due to overload. You have to take them out to isolate them...they should read .6 Ohms one way; reverse the leads and they slhould read about 1.2 Ohms. If there shorted you'll read 0 Ohms and open infinety.

Anyway, replace those diodes and you should re-establish your field winding voltage which develops you A/C output.

Good Luck,
Mike...

First check with the dealer and see if it is still under warranty. If it is not, make sure nothing is blocking the air flow around where the control modules are located. This could cause the voltage regulator and other electronic parts to overheat. Next check the brushes and make sure they are free of any dust or build up preventing them from making contact.

If everything is OK the next thing I would do is change the voltage regulator.

RECHECK the New Alternator This is Not Unheard of as I Have Experienced it Myself Several times.
After RULING it out and the Fallowing,Main relay box Power terminals, Corroded Loose fit nuts Etc.
Consider Voltage Regulator, Read the fallowing "CAREFULLY"

CIRCUIT OPERATION
The Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) is not a separate component. It is actually a Voltage regulating circuit located within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) . The EVR is not serviced separately. If replacement is necessary, the PCM must be replaced.

Operation: The amount of DC current produced by the generator is controlled by EVR circuitry contained within the PCM. This circuitry is connected in series with the generators second rotor field terminal and its ground.

Voltage is regulated by cycling the ground path to control the strength of the rotor magnetic field. The EVR circuitry monitors system line Voltage and battery temperature (refer to Battery Temperature Sensor for more information). It then compensates and regulates generator current output accordingly. Also see Charging System Operation for additional information.

FOR Detailed Diagrams,on Entire Charging system they Must be Emailed,as they are too Large for the Formatting that "FixYA" uses my Email add. is My nickname here but add @aol.com By all Means If this is of Help to you , Then PLEASE RATS Me Thank you and have a Blessed DAY rejakwilson

Here is a simple test to check field and other wiring. With engine off apply 12v ac 1 amp to 110v outlet plug on generator. This will energize the field windings and should cause the armature to produce dc voltage at the brushes and produce a nice magnet. If there is a short in the field or broken wire or shorted capacitor there will be no dc reading at the brushes. . This test is the opposite of what actually occurs when the engine is running. That is the armature produces a magnet fed thru the windings, regulator and brushes. If dc voltage is present at the burshes, remove 12v ac and start engine to check for output. enjoy