Protech 62-24084-02 troubleshooting

Tankless?
Multiple error codes can mean bad PC board
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html#error

Gene
Water Heater Timers Save Money

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

call Rheem --- they can get the information you need

do you have the lower door in place tight ?? because there is a door button switch. so if its not pushed in all the way you would have no power at furnace. also make sure nobody turned off the on off service switch usually above furnace or sometimes one at top of stairs and one down by the furnace .if those suggestions don't work you might want to turn each breaker off then back on incase one is tripped. if that don't work check for 120 volt at your fan timer board also it may have a automotive style fuse on the board which if blown it wont do anything. if there is 120 volt at board and the 24 volt circuit fuse is good its probably the fan timer board.

1) Copy following link to troubleshoot by type of gas control valve:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent

2) Otherwise Rheem-Ruud does not post service manuals
http://www.ruud.com/products/tank_water_heaters/gas_water_heaters/

3) Sound like bad gas control valve thermostat.
Newer Honeywell electronic controls can be replaced without draining tank.
Older mechanical controls are replaced by removal from tank after tank is drained.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

There are two types magnesium anode.
1) Hex-head that screws into separate port on top of tank, and comes either 44" long or 12" sausage links.
2) Combo-anode that connects to Hot water nipple, and comes in solid or combo.

Contact guys at following link to purchase anodes
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/OrderPages/XCart/sales-through-XCart.html

General instructions and types of anodes
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

Rheem 'preferred parts'
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/2011_Rheem-anode-rods.pdf
Purpose of resistorized anode is supposedly so magnesium performs as well as aluminum.
Rheem however had 'resistorized elements' years ago, and that turned out to be promotional gimmick so people would buy rheem-brand products.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Rheem-Ruud does not post service manuals.
Tank-type?
Copy following link to troubleshoot by type of gas control valve.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent
Tankless? Don't buy a tankless.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

PC board is probably bad.
Rheem, Richmond, Ruud, Paloma, etc will send you another PC board, and hopefully the success rate will equal success rate of replacing motherboard on your computer.
Before calling service technician, copy following link for troubleshoot resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

9:10 times the control board is bad. You are wise to suspect as much.

Use following link for Rheem/Paloma/Richmond/Ruud tankless troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

http://www.palomastore.com/paloma_error_codes.html
Range of problems can vary from fan motor wiring, to remote control terminals (error 76), to bad remote, to bad circuit board.
1) Replace remote control
2) Read error 76 and 79 shown in link above
3) Contact local service technician
4) Contact Rheem

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Sounds like it could be a dirty or bad flame sensor.
When the burner lights ,there is a flame sensor in the flame and it is suppose to sense the flame and send a signal back to the control board which will keep the gas valve open, if it gets dirty or is bad it doesn't send the signal back to the board and the board will shut the gas valve off and after three tries it will lock out the furnace and you have to reset it to get it to work again.
The flame sensor looks like a wire and it's in the flame usually it will get gas deposits on it, then it won't work.
You can clean this sensor with an extra fine piece of steel wool, but before you attempt to do this DISCONNECT ALL POWER TO THE FURNACE.