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My Clarion APX1300 amp was powering my 2 12" MTX subs, then the other day it just stopped working. Went behind head unit and everything is still connected, checked the fuses and they are ok. Unhooked my subs for a couple of days and noticed that my amp was coming back on. So I took my subs out and gave them to my GF since her subs didn't work anymore and the subs work fine in her car. Just bought some 10" Visoniks to put back in my car. Now the amp won't turn on again. Any answers?!
I actually unplugged the speaker wires and the RCA wires after I wrote that. The amp power on light will come on for about a second after the car has sat for a while, but then shuts off. When I try to shut car off and put back into the on position the amp will not light up at all. So yes, even after I unplugged the sub and RCA wires, it still would not work. It had worked perfect for almost a year that I have had it, then the other day nothing!I actually unplugged the speaker wires and the RCA wires after I wrote that. The amp power on light will come on for about a second after the car has sat for a while, but then shuts off. When I try to shut car off and put back into the on position the amp will not light up at all. So yes, even after I unplugged the sub and RCA wires, it still would not work. It had worked perfect for almost a year that I have had it, then the other day nothing!
Also, is that amp ok for the subs I have now? I just purchased two 10" Visonik V105PR. 250W RMS each and 500W Max each. Single 4 ohm Voice coil. If not, what are some choices on amps that would work best and also under $100? I prefer Mono amps, but any would do. Thx
BTW, the amp was powering 2 12" American Pro VS412.Also, is that amp ok for the subs I have now? I just purchased two 10" Visonik V105PR. 250W RMS each and 500W Max each. Single 4 ohm Voice coil. If not, what are some choices on amps that would work best and also under $100? I prefer Mono amps, but any would do. Thx
BTW, the amp was powering 2 12" American Pro VS412.
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You did not say whether or not you checked the wiring going to your subs. Many times, a shorted or grounded speaker wire will cause an amp to fail. And if the amp powers up OK with the subs disconnected, I'd suspect one or more of the wires.
Well, if all of the wiring has checked out OK, then I'd have to suspect a problem with the amp itself. If you have had it for less than a year, it should still be under warranty.
The amp is rated at 400 watts RMS into 2 ohms so your Visonik 10" subs would be OK wired in parallel.
As for amp choices, there aren't many monoblocks available for under $100 that will produce the power you need. The least expensive sold by Crutchfield is the Orion Cobalt CO500.1 at $139.99. About the only ones for under $100 have names like Boss, Hitron, and Lanzar. And your other stuff, the Clarion and Visonik are in a little higher league. It's not JL or Alpine, but it's good equipment. For another $10, also at Crutchfield, you could get a slightly higher powered Kenwood, the KAC-6104D. But keep in mind that Kenwood is not CEA2006 compliant and their published figures may be inflated. If it were me, I'd spring for about $50 bucks more and get the Alpine MRP-M500. Alpine is CEA2006 compliant.
Hope this helps.Hello again rheabarb,
Well, if all of the wiring has checked out OK, then I'd have to suspect a problem with the amp itself. If you have had it for less than a year, it should still be under warranty.
The amp is rated at 400 watts RMS into 2 ohms so your Visonik 10" subs would be OK wired in parallel.
As for amp choices, there aren't many monoblocks available for under $100 that will produce the power you need. The least expensive sold by Crutchfield is the Orion Cobalt CO500.1 at $139.99. About the only ones for under $100 have names like Boss, Hitron, and Lanzar. And your other stuff, the Clarion and Visonik are in a little higher league. It's not JL or Alpine, but it's good equipment. For another $10, also at Crutchfield, you could get a slightly higher powered Kenwood, the KAC-6104D. But keep in mind that Kenwood is not CEA2006 compliant and their published figures may be inflated. If it were me, I'd spring for about $50 bucks more and get the Alpine MRP-M500. Alpine is CEA2006 compliant.
Hope this helps.
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Check your amp wire connections
batt 12v
ground to chassis
remote wire to head unit(radio)
Rca cables
your grounding something or wires are touching each other.
Make sure rca cables are tight at the amp and head unit, if you didn't put the sub in the box yourself or buy a retailer.. check the connections yourself. if it's an old amp it may be burnt up. some head units these days require you to turn the sub on (especialy alpine) really need more info on what you got and how old it is.
turn down music open sub box and put another speaker at wire and check again if work means sub is ok if not check the signal cable, and put there the speaker to try signal
You could have the subs wired in the wrong ohm. It might be turning off the amp and check to make sure that you rca cables from the head unit to the amp are connected right.
I've got a pair of these MTX's subs powered from a Fusion 450 watt 2-channel amp. For the price, they are great. By the way, they are 4-ohm.
My first suspicion would be that something in the first incorrect wiring damaged either the amp or the subs. Can you explain specifically what the "installing the subs incorrectly" means? Was the amp output shorted out at any time or was it operated without a load? Either of these conditions will fry an amp and sometimes, the protection circuitry doesn't work either.
First make sure that your amp is still working. Check both the primary power fuse, usually located near the vehicle battery, and the fuses on both sides of the amp. Make sure that when you turn the system on, the power light comes on steady (blinking is protection mode). Test your subs one at a time on a speaker output.
There are a couple of tests you can perform. I'd first recommend checking the shield ground. You'll need an ohm meter. The details can be found on the following page.
You can also test the output with the multimeter. Set the multimeter to AC volts. If it's not an auto-ranging meter, set it to a voltage range of ~2v AC. Disconnect the RCA cables from the head unit. Touch one meter probe to the outer ring of the head unit's RCA jack. Touch the other probe to the metal contact in the center of the RCA jack. With the head unit near full volume and a clean signal source, you should read at least one volt on musical peaks. If you have a bass disc or a test tone disc (~60hz sine wave), use those.
I actually unplugged the speaker wires and the RCA wires after I wrote that. The amp power on light will come on for about a second after the car has sat for a while, but then shuts off. When I try to shut car off and put back into the on position the amp will not light up at all. So yes, even after I unplugged the sub and RCA wires, it still would not work. It had worked perfect for almost a year that I have had it, then the other day nothing!
Also, is that amp ok for the subs I have now? I just purchased two 10" Visonik V105PR. 250W RMS each and 500W Max each. Single 4 ohm Voice coil. If not, what are some choices on amps that would work best and also under $100? I prefer Mono amps, but any would do. Thx
BTW, the amp was powering 2 12" American Pro VS412.
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